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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here it is!

Samurais, SJ410's, sidekicks, whatever you've got, it belongs here if it's a Suzuki.

I tried to pull most of the topics regarding Suzukis from the Other 4x4 forum and put them here; however, there may still be some floating around in Other 4x4.

Enjoy.

I am going to try to make this one thread a "tech only" thread without comments, simply quoting other sites/people for information (no links please, sometimes other sites move things and the links get broken) so that people don't have to hunt around as much. Post any strict tech you've got here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay, I lied, I will include some links for those of you having trouble finding aftermarket or otherwise Suzuki parts:

Vendors
A vendor list of bolt on items:

ShrockWorks.com - ShrockWorks
northcoastoffroad.com
petroworks.com
spidertrax.com
roadlessgear.com
trailtough.com
wheelersoffroad.com
rocky-road.com
puresuzuki.com/suzukimain.htm (Calmini)
hawksuzukiparts.com/
asianautopartsofaz.com/
rotational-dynamics.com/
davesport.com
breezeindustries.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
T-Case Info
Shifter
Q. Shifter problems/can't put it IN a gear or remove it from a gear.
A. Start with the shifter sheet. To remove it push down on retaining ring and turn CCW. Then pull shifter up/out. See vender list for new sheets, RR has new poly sheets...

1.3 Engine
-Pullys
Q. What pullies can I swap on?
A. Chevy Sprint 1.0L is a great swap, has stock water pump pully AND an overdrive for power steering, and other accessiries.
The 1.0L is also made by suzuki, so other vehicles with this or similer engines should work....

-Gearing Thoughts/Concepts..
Q. Which is better axle gearing or a t-case kit ?
A. While doing transfer case gears is probably the biggest bank for buck and a quick-fix, it is definitely a lousy way to try and create a reliable, trouble-free drivetrain. Think about this for a minute... You put on larger tires. Now your pinion becomes TWICE as hard to turn. This puts TWICE as much stress on the u-joints, the transfer case mounts, the transfer case itself, and the brackets on the side of the frame that holds the transfer case in place. "GEE I wonder why I need these big honkin' driveshafts now"...or "why do my bolts pull out of the transfer case on the long arm side"... or the mounting boss breaks off of the transfer case....or the short arm side bracket starts tearing off of the frame rail. "Gosh - maybe it is because I gave my transfer case almost 3 times as much power by putting in 6:1's and now it wants to do flip flops in its mounts because I must have FORGOT to change the ring and pinions relative to my tire size - which would have made the driveshaft easy to turn again and takes all of the strain off of these parts - like it was made from the factory when the little tires were on it." It is a MISTAKE to do all of your gear reduction at one point. Especially that far up the mechanical chain. Do yourself a favor...reduce the ratio at the ring and pinions relative to the size tire you want to run, then select the transfer case gears that will best meet your 4-wheeling needs. By going this route, you will have a well thought out and trouble-free drivetrain working well within the parameters of strain that the parts can and will reliably handle. -Brent (Trail Tough Products)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Year Differences:

* 1982. SJ-410 arrives in Canada. Basically the Samurai style vehicle that we have the love/hate relationship with. These beasties have the narrow track frame (front springs inset under frame rails in front), a 1.0 liter 4 cylinder engine (aluminum head, iron block. Want one? No seriously...), 4 speed manual trans with first gear ratio of about 3.15:1, 4th is 1:1. T-case is similar is design to a Samurai case BUT has a different casing, more squared off, no 4x4 switch, small flanges. Body styles are hard top (i.e. V), Pickup (K), LWB and normal soft top. Axles (4.10:1) are narrow to match the frame, differentials are same as LJ-80. Quick ratio upgrade is to get 4.56:1 ratio diffs from an LJ and plug them in. No parts interchange between these axles and the Samurai. T-case ratios are 1.58:1 in high, 2.56:1 (or so, bad memory, sit! stay!) in low.

* 1982/3. Same as above, newer style t-case housing starts to appear - very similar to Sam case with exception of 4x4 switch. Same ratios.

* 1984. Same as above except the t-case uses the same types of gear clusters as a Samurai case but with lower ratios (1.58, 2.5x). These gears are the ones used to make a "rocklobster" t-case (combination of these gears and Samurai gears to make a 1.58 high, 4.16 low t-case - web search for instructions). This may be the first "sanctioned" appearance of the SJ-410 in the US. Not 100% on that though.

* 1985. SJ-413 is introduced in Canada. Differences from a SJ-410: Samurai all aluminum 1300cc engine with Aisin carb and 5 speed transmission (3.652:1 first). Axles are changed to Samurai style diffs but with SJ-410 front brakes and 3.90:1 axle ratios. These diffs are intercahngable between Samurai and SJ-413). New Samurai style dash with no central console (the original style). T-case ratios change to Samurai ratios (1.409:1, 2.2x:1). Last year of pickup in Canada. US still recieves some SJ-410s, but not the SJ-413.

* 1986. First year of what we commonly call a Samurai in US and Canada. Canadian spec kept the Aisin carb (lenient emmisions reqs) while the the US got this fooked up Hitachi carbu-jector thing. Front spring spacing moved outboard of the frame approximately 2-1/8" per side, axles grew also to widen the track. US recieves soft top and hard top but not the pick-up or LWB versions.

* 1987-1988. Last year of LWB in Canada.

* 1988.5. First restyle of Samurai in North American market. New dash with a more car like center to house radio, heater controls, little cubbies, etc. Spring rates change (soften?). Canada gets the Hitachi carbujector.

* 1990. EFI on the 1300cc engine starts to appear (late 1990 I think).

* 1991. Last year for hard top, grille is restyled to two long horzontal slots.

* 1992. Last year of Samurai in Canada.

* 1993. Samurai is sold in US only without rear bench - to get around tighening security regs.

* 1995. Last year of Samurai in US.

There's probably more nitty gritty details I'm forgetting but that is pretty much it in NA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
More History:

1. In the beginning (Suzuki Motor Corp. History)



The ancestor of the Suzuki 4WD was called Hopestar ON360 and was manufactured from 1965 until 1967 by the Japanese Hope Motor Company. Its basic concept equals the later successful LJ 80 as in bodyline. Of course as all 4wd vehicles it was based on the grand daddy of them all, the Jeep (circa WWII). Foldable windshield, the outrigging front fenders and flat side body panels are some examples, as are the big tires when compared to the body. The tire/wheel combo came straight from the Willys. Those are the typical off-road vehicle trait marks of a classic 4wd vehicle. The power plant was an air cooled, 2 stroke, 2 cylinder, from Mitsubishi Type ME24D. It was 359 cc in size and developed 21 hp at 5500 rpm and maximum torque of 31.4 Nm at 3500 rpm. Only one version was available; convertible with a soft top. The wheelbase was 1.95 meters and the overall dimension were 2995 x1295 x1765 mm (length x width x height). It's weight was 625 kilos. In 1967, the Japanese Department of Transportation approved the Hopestar and the sale started in 1968. Only 15 vehicles were hand made in that year before the company decided to stop it's vehicle construction all together.


In 1968, Suzuki Motor Co. Ltd. acquired the production rights of the Hopestar ON360 from the Hope Motor Company. Suzuki, at that time, already was a renowned motorcycle producer and held several street racing world championship titles. It also had some car production experience but only for the Japanese market. Suzuki started exporting its 4WD trucks in 1974.


The prerequisites for mass production of a off-road vehicle were in many ways better at Suzuki than at Hope Motor Company. In 1970, the production of the Jimny started and in that same year Suzuki Motor Co. built it's one millionth car.


Before the first Suzuki 4WD roll of the a$$embly line, the engineers took a very close look at the Hopestar. All vehicle components were either reworked or newly designed. One has to take in account the engineering department had a difficult job as the Jimny had to be classified in the "mini-car" market segment due to tax issues which also meant that the engine size was limited to 360 ccm, overall length could not exceed 3 meters and it could only be 1.3 meters wide. After 2 years of development the first Jimny 360 (LJ10) rolled of the a$$embly line. It's body lines were very similar to of it's successors, like the LJ80 which 10 years later influenced the 4WD boom worldwide. The LJ10 was manufactured strictly for the Japanese market and had an air cooled 2 stroke, 2 cylinder 359 ccm engine with 25 hp at 600 rpm and a maximum of torque at 33.4 Nm at 5500 rpm.


To keep up with the mini-car guidelines, interior space ended up being somewhat scarce as the spare tire had to be installed behind the driver's seat making it a 3 seater. The LJ10 and it's successors were build this way until 1976 when the Japanese government made some changes to the transportation guidelines.


1972 marked the change over to the LJ20 model. The main difference was the power plant. It was a watercooled, 2 stroke, 2 cylinder 359 ccm engine with 28 hp at 5500 rpm and a maximum torque of 37.3Nm at 5000 rpm. This was also the time at which a watercooled engine and a metal hard top version were introduced. Minor body refinements were done in 1973. The combined single indicator parking light and turning signal were separated into two independent lights, one on top of the other, on the front on the fenders.


The "mini-car" guidelines were changed again in 1976 to a maximum engine size of 550 ccm, overall length was changed to 3.20 meters and the maximum weight was upped from 1300 kilos to 1400 kilos. Finally, the spare could be moved were it should be; on the outside gate, which means that the interior had room for a forth person. This new model, called the LJ50 (Jimny 550/SJ10), had a 539 ccm watercooled, 2 stroke, 3 cylinder engine with 26 hp, less than the smaller 360 ccm engine, but with a higher torque output of 52Nm at 3000 rpm.


1977 was a big year for Suzuki as it began to export its Jimny series. Parallel to the LJ50 (SJ10) Suzuki started to build the SJ20 with a 4 stroke 4 cylinder engine, later introduced to us as the LJ80. It had 797 ccm with 42 hp at 550 rpm and max torque of 61Nm at 3500 rpm (German specifications). At the same time fuel capacity is increased to 40 liters from 26 liters, the axle housing width was increased by 10 cm to 119 cm up front and to 120 cm at the rear. You can tell the 1977 model apart from the older ones by the raised hood with air inlets up front and the rear lights and bumper are integrated to the body. The LJ50 and LJ80 can only be differentiated by looking at the speedometer, as the LJ50 tops at 90 Km/h and the LJ80 at 110km/h.


Two years after introduction, the LJ80 received its last facelift. The headlight positioning was widened /lowered and the cooler grill was slightly modified. Also steel doors were offered for the first time. The LJ 50 was offered in Japan until 1983, eleven years after the debut of the Jimny. A complete model change was developed and the SJ410 (SJ30) was introduced.


OTHER FUN FACTS:
Did you know that Suzuki offered a 4 door version of the SJ30/40 in Brunei based on the long wheel base model. For the Japanese market (strict mini car guidelines) they offered a turbo version called the Jimny 660 EPI Turbo with a watercooled, 3 cylinder turbocharged, intercooled and fuel injected engine. It was 657 ccm in size and produced 55 hp at 5500 rpm and max torque of 85Nm at 3500 rpm with a compression of 8,1:1. It was offered with a 5 speed manual transmission or a 3 speed automatic. You can tell them from other similar Suzuki's as they have a air scoop a top the hood on the left side.


Translated by: Michael Sierhaus from original German in a book by <?> titled <?>.


2. Names and pseudonyms of Suzuki vehicles.


LJ series AKA: Hopestar, LJ10, LJ20, LJ50/55, LJ80/81
Styles: Hardtop, Convertible, Pickup; 2 Seater, 3 Seater, or 4 Seater; 2 Door
Manufactured: 1970-


SJ series AKA: SJ20, SJ30/40, SJ410, SJ413
Styles: Hardtop, Convertible, Long Wheel Base, Pickup; 4 Seater; 2 Door, 4 Door
Manufactured: 1977-1984


Samurai series AKA: Sierra (Europe, Aus, NZ), Jimny (Asia)
Models: JA, JX, JL, Elk, Stockman, Special, Landadventure
Styles: Hardtop, Convertible, LWB, Pickup,
Manufactured: 1985-Current


Sidekick AKA: Vitara (Europe, Aus, NZ), Escudo (Asia)
Models: JA, JX, JLX, Sport
Styles: Hardtop, Convertible 2 Dr, 4 Dr
Manufactured: 1988-Current


X-90 Styles: T-Roof; 2 Door; 2 Seater
Manufactured: 1997-Current


Vitara Styles: 2 door, 4 door, Grand Vitara
Manufactured: 1998-Current.


3. LJ specs


Hopestar ON 360
First released: 1968
Engine: air-cooled, 359cc, 2 cylinder, 2-stroke
Horse Power: 21 hp @ 5500 rpm
Max. Torque: 31.4 Nm @ 3500 rpm
Wheelbase: 1.95m
Dimensions (mm): 2995 (L) x 1295 (W) x 1765 (H)
Weight: 625 kg
Roof: Soft top only.
Notes: Original Suzuki 4WD truck, manufactured by Japanese Hope Motor Company. Only 15 vehicles ever produced..


LJ10
First released: 1970
Engine: air-cooled 360 cc, 2 cylinder, 2-stroke
Horse Power: 5 hp @ 600prm
Max. Torque: 33.4 Nm at 5500rpm
Fuel Tank: 26L
Roof: Soft top only.
Notes: Engine size and length/width were regulated by Japanese Transportation Guideline to keep vehicle classed as "mini-car". Spare tire was stored behind driver's seat to conform to guidelines, making it only a 3 seater. Most distinctive feature is horizontal grill, with Suzuki emblam in middle bar.


LJ20A/E
First released: 1972
Engine: watercooled 360cc, 2 cylinder, 2-stroke
Horse Power: 268 @ 5500rpm
Max. Torque: 37.3Nm @ 5000rpm
Fuel Tank: 26L
Roof: Soft top and hard top
Notes: First Suzuki 4x4 to be exported. Minor cosmetic changed from LJ10 body style. LJ20A models included 2 amber lights (parking light and turning signal) on each side of the front, E models on had one combo light.


LJ50/55 (Jimny 550/SJ10)
First Released: 1976
Engine: 539cc, 3 cylinder, 2-stroke
Horse Power: 35
Max. Torque: 52Nm @ 3000rpm
Transmission: 4 speed
Fuel Tank: 26L
Dimensions (mm): 3010 (L), 1295 (W)
Ground clearance: 237mm
Weight: 670kg (S/T) / 720kg (H/T)
Roof: Hard top and soft top
Notes: 2 speed transfer case; motor had a motorcycle type oil pump so no fuel had to be pre-mixed; it had a plastic pipe running from the heater fan motor housing to the distributor and then to the clutch housing - the idea was when crossing deep water you turned the heater blower on and this pressurised the distributor and the clutch housing thus keeping the water out!; on-road cruising speed was about 80km per hour, it could manage 110km per hour with a tail wind; spare tire was finally moved to rear gate; top front singal light was changed from amber to clear; new gril and raised hood.


LJ80 (SJ20)/LJ81
First Released: 1977 (series II - 1979)
Engine: 797cc, 4 cylinder, 4-stroke
Horse Power: 42 @ 5500rpm
Max. Torque: 61Nm @ 3500rpm
Fuel Tank: 40L
Transmission: 4 speed
Axle Width (mm): 1190 (F), 1200 (R)
Roof: H/T & S/T. Note: Series II S/T came with metal doors only.
Notes: Ute/Pick-up model known as LJ81; first Suzuki truck exported from Japan to North America. The only distinguishable differnce between the LJ80 and the LJ50 is that the LJ50's speedometer goes to 90km/h and the LJ80's goes to 110km/h.


4. SJ specs


The first SJ model (SJ10) was the same as the LJ50. The SJ20 was more like the LJ80. The SJ410 (SJ30) had a totally diffent body.


The SJ was the first 'sammy-like' model. Some of it's original body panel designs are were used in the Samurai/Sierra bodies. In fact some people confuse the SJ410 with the Samurai/Sierra, however the SJ has a distinctive vertical slat grill. They were the first Suzuki vehicles to use a newly developed 1L 4 stroke, 4 cylinder. The SJ410W was the first Long Wheel Base Suzuki truck and incorporated a removable hard fiberglass roof. At over 4 metres in length it was put into service by numerous 3rd world counties as a military jeep. The LWB and Pickup models were not released until 1982.


SJ20 (SJ10 see LJ50)
First Released: 1977
Engine: 797cc, 4 cylinder, 4 stroke
Horse Power: 42 @ 5500rpm
Max. Torque: 61Nm @ 3500rpm
Fuel Tank: 40L
Roof: Hard top and soft top
Length: just over 3 metres
Width: 1.295 m
Ground clearance: 237 mm
Weight: 670 kg (S/T) / 720kg (H/T)
Notes: 2 speed transfer case; motor had a motorcycle type oil pump so no fuel had to be pre-mixed; it had a plastic pipe running from the heater fan motor housing to the distributor and then to the clutch housing - the idea was when crossing deep water you turned the heater blower on and this pressurised the distributor and the clutch housing thus keeping the water out!; on-road cruising speed was about 80km per hour, it could manage 110km per hour with a tail wind (if you could stand the noise!) Jack Chomley


SJ410 (SJ30/40)
First Released: 1981 (LWB and Ute models released in late 1982)
Roof: H/T & S/T.
Notes: Also came in Long Wheel Base (LWB) S/T and Pickup (Ute) models and in a 4 door version based on the LWB chassis


5. Samurai specs


The Samurai was the first Suzuki truck official sold in the United States through proper dealer channels. It's design was very much a carry over from the 1985 SJ410. So much so, that the 1986 Samurai's and 1984-95 SJ410's look exactly the same, except for body tags. In Canada it was introduced in the 1985 1/2 model year, in the US in 1986.


Depending on where it was sold in the world, the vehicle goes by three different names: Samurai (North and South America), Sierra (Europe, Australia and New Zealand), and Jimny (Asia).


In North America the Samurai was never totally re-modeled, but various changes have happened over the years. A long wheel base version, a SJ410 carry over never released in the US, was discontinued in other countries in 1987. JA and JX models were offered from 1986-90, JL and 2WD models were offered from 1990-94. The 1994 US models did not have back seats due to new safety regulations.


In July 1988, Consumer Reports ran an article headlined "The Suzuki rolls over too easily." Suzuki stopped selling the Samurai in the North America in 1994 after a sharp drop in sales in that the company blames on CU's test result. However, the Sierra and Jimny continue to be sold in Europe, Australia and Asia.


In 1996, Suzuki gave the Sierra and Jimny a face lift which renewed buyer interest. Many other compentents were upgrade and fine tuned, but the most popular Suzuki 4x4 ever still retained its narrow track and boxy look. The 1999 model year will bring a whole new look for the Samurai/Sierra.Jimny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another "What Changed" History:

MODEL YEAR

CHANGES



1985

- engine: carburated 1324cc, 4 cylinder, 4-stroke, 64HP, 100Nm Torque.
- transmission: 5-speed
- roof: hardtop, softop convertable, removable hardtop
- seats: 4


1988 1/2
- redesigned dash (square look)
- weatherstrip on the top bow
- softened the suspension
- slightly redesigned grille
- lowered fifth gear
- different shifter knob
- bigger radiator


1990
- removed two of four spider gears from front differential
- wheelbase increased an inch or two (inorder to improve the ride)
- added FI (fuel injection) to 1.3L engine, increased horsepower to 66
- tranny and tranfer case bearings changed to the sealed design


1993
- changed the grill design slightly


1994
- removed back seats, due to new safty regulations



1995

- Samurai model discontinued in US and Canada


1996
Engine & Transmission
- exhaust muffler capacity increased to improve gas flow and reduce noise
- 5th gear ratio decreased (0.975 to 0.864)
- higher diff ratio (3.727 to 3.909)
- transfer gear ratio changed (High: 1.409 to 1.320; Low: 2.268 to 2.123)
- rubber mounted revised clutch cable eliminates vibration
- new transmission "Mass Damper" to reduce vibrations
- new viscous coupling engine fan reduces noise
- new high voltage transistor coil
- new larger capacity radiator
- larger 42 litre capacity fuel tank (from 40L)
- power steering added

Suspension & Brakes
- front and rear leaf springs replaced by an "Isolated Trailing Link and Coil Spring" design, providing the most remarkable improvement in ride and handling
- the brake booster diameter has been increased by 25mm (1 inch) to 200mm (8 inches), improving the stopping power dramatically
- coil springs with twin control arms for each axle


Exterior
- new hood, front fenders, windscreen panel, grill and indicator/parking lamps
- under hood insulation
- front and rear bumpers have been slightly restyled and are now polypropylene
- the traditional side stripe has been discontinued
- high level brake light is standard on the hard top and also on the soft top via a special mounting on the spare wheel bracket
- halogen head lights replace the old sealed beams
- revised vinyl material on the Soft Top hood.
- improved door seals.


Chassis
- chassis strength increased through two side-frames and five cross-members
- rubber mountings between body and chassis to absorb road vibration and reduce cabin noise
- side-protection beams


Interior
- totally revised dashboard with silver reflective gauges, including tachometer
- new wide, three spoke, urethane soft-grip steering wheel with collapsible steering column
- new front bucket seats with more lateral support and new upholstery (vinyl trim in S/Top, cloth trim in H/Top)
- comprehensive sound deadening material between the dashboard and firewall
- the front seatbelt buckle position has been relocated to the side of the seat rather than floor mounted
- new moulded door trims
- new improved brake and clutch pedal layout
- new plush cut pile carpet on hard top models
- console box between the front seats
- rear split folding bench
- tinted glass on rear side and back windows


Colours
Superior White, Antares Red, Reddish Blue (Metallic), Aqua Green (Metallic)



1999
- specs not yet known
- rumour says: 1.3L replaced with 1.6L





Notes:
Jimny later sold as "The Panoramic Roof Wagon" (a.k.a. High Roof) which was basically a H/T with a slightly higher roof, and small rectangular windows along the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Other Suzuki Specs/Info

6. Sidekick specs



Created as a successor to the popular Samurai, but offering more comforts and modern components, the Sidekick proved very popular among young and old alike. Also marketed as the Vitara, Escudo, Tracker and Sunrunner, the "J Truck" was the first Suzuki manufactured in North America, at CAMI in Ingersoll, Canada, a joint venture between GM and Suzuki.


Initially only available in a two door model, a four door version was released in 1991 and began competing with Pathfinder 4 Runner, Trooper, Jimmy, and other SUVs.


In 1996, the JLX model was replaced with a Sport tag. Beige body molding, a new grill, and 1.8L engine was also added to give the four door a sophisticated look and feel. Duel air bags and a curvier dash was also implemented in 1996. The Sidekick/Tracker placed second in the compact sport utility vehicle category in the 1996 J.D. Power Initial Quality Survey.


1999 models will see the first major body restyle since its introduction in 1988. The Sidekick name will be retired and the Vitara moniker will be used in North America. North America will also see the V6 option. Stay tuned for more info as it become available.


SIDEKICK / VITARA
First released: 1988
Engine: 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L V6, and diesel
Transmission: 5-speed, 4-speed auto
Roof: Hardtop, Soft Top
Seats: 4
Notes: LWB 4 Door model released in 1991, LWB 4 Door Sport model (with 1.8L) released in 1995, diesel model release in Europe only, V6 2.0L release in Sport model in 1997 (Europe only)


7. X-90 specs


Is it a mini-truck or a 4x4 car with a t-roof? No one is really sure what the X90 is and it's so new I don't think anyone has had the time to take it about to find out. It's 4 wheel drive mechanism is pure truck, unlike it's competition, the RAV4. Currently the X90 is only available in a two door, two seater model, but there are rumours Suzuki is looking at adding a 4 door, four seater, hatchback model to the line.


X90
First released: August 1996
Engine: 1.59L EFI, 4 cylinder
Roof: Removable section
Seats: 2
Notes: More information as it becomes available.


8. Vitara specs


Vitara LWB / Sidekick 4 Door
First Released: 1991
Engine: 1590cc, 4 cylinder, 4-stroke, 16 valve, EFI.
Transmission: 5-speed.
Roof: H/T only.


Vitara SWB / Sidekick 2 Door
First Released: 1988 ( model: 1995)
Engine: 1590cc 16 valve, EFI, 4 cylinder, 4-stroke.
Transmission: 5-speed
Roof: H/T & S/T


Vitara LWB V6 / Sidekick Sport
First Released: late 1995
Engine: 1799cc, 4 cylinder, 16 valve EFI or 2000cc, 6 cylinder, 24 valve, Multi Point EFI, Twin Cam (Europe only) or Diesel (Europe only)
Horse Power: 100 kW;
Torque: 172 Nm.
Transmission: 5-speed manual or 4-speed Auto.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ring and Pinion Install Text:

After receiving you new gears, check both boxes and contents and make sure all nec. parts are there double check ring gear and pinion for matching numbers, be careful not to mix gears R/P are matched. Wash all gears in a solvent i.e., mineral spirits brake clean what have you. Start by removing the old ring gear from the housing clean it and check bearings and races, it is not always nec. to replace them if they are in good shape but if in doubt replace, also do not mix the carrier bearings and races up. I like to wash each side down and set them in the packing material that the new gears were shipped in, in the correct ref. that they were removed. At this point all parts cleaned and visually inspected you should have a setup similar to this, notice I have already installed my new ring gear using lock tight and installing bolts to correct torque spec.(note: if this is your first gear installation use some marking compound on the ring gear and rotate gears in both dir. to get a Visual feel for what your pattern should look like when new gears are installed)


Next in order would be to use a depth gauge micrometer and get the depth on the existing pinion in the housing, it helps as a reference for installing your shims on the new pinion for depth. write this # down for later use. Next remove the pinion from the housing and clean if bearings are good remove them with a Bearing splitter, a press is recommended But a vise, wood block and a good dead blow hammer have been known to be used. Next take the depth measurement marked on the pinion head and compare to the depth recorded during disassembly add or subtract the difference to match the new specified depth. Install new pinion into the housing I like to use the old crush sleeve initially while checking for correct depth. Once your depth is achieved, reinstall the carrier and new ring gear into the housing. Start by turning side adjusters in on both sides checking Backlash with a dial indicator turn adjuster in or out to achieve the recommended backlash once this is done it 's time to check you wear pattern. Apply a small amount of gear oil onto a piece of cardboard and mix in some marking compound, brush onto face and heal of 4-5 teeth on the ring gear. Rotate gears until a definite pattern starts to revile it self (mental note what did it look like when you checked your old gears. If the pattern looks good I disassemble, install the new crush sleeve and start torquing it down. Remember it can take up to 400 Ft.lbs to even begin to crush the sleeve but once it starts preload comes up very quickly so take it slow I use a pc.of 2x2 angle and bolt it to the pinion flange and use a breaker bar to get started, periodically checking preload with an inch lb.dial indicator until the preload is to spec. Once the preload is set on the pinion I reinstall the carrier set it up to proper backlash again then start tightening the side spanner disks as tight as you can get them periodically recheck backlash and tighten the corresponding spanner to keep backlash to spec. From every one I have talked too there has never been a gear failure in this style carrier due to over preload on the side bearings. Frankly, I don't think you can over load the carrier bearings unless you use a 5' breaker bar on your spanner wrench. Anyway after you feel you have a preload on the ring gear and your backlash is still correct, Brush on some more marking compound and double check your wear pattern if it looks like the correct diagram below you should be good to go. Also remember quality diff oil and correct break in period based on your gear mfg. spec and they should last you a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Welded Axle Write-Up:

Welding differential side gears is a method of creating a locker that allows for far greater traction than an open differential (common on stock vehicles) or even a limited slip differential (commonly known as a posi traction device).


Although welded diffs may not be the ultimate way to lock your differential, it can be the cheapest if you know how to the work yourself or know someone who can do it for you cheap or free.


There are different ways to weld differentials to create a locker. Some are created by welding the side gears to the spider gears. This eliminates the differentiation of the open differential as the spider gears and side gears no longer move independently but as a single unit. Another way, which may be considered stronger by some, is to weld the spider and side gears together, and then weld them to the differential case (some people even had pieces of metal to this process in order to make a more solid a$$embly weld). These two examples do not allow any differentiation at all between the two axle shafts, and consequently the wheels and tires.


In the example pictured here, you will see that only some of the valleys in the side gear teeth are filled in with filler metal from a MIG welder. This is to allow a small amount of differentiation between the two wheels on that axle a$$embly. This can make it a little easier to steer in tight situations on the trail. It also makes it easier to unlock manual lockout hubs. A fully welded diff will often bind up the drive-train making it difficult to unlock the hubs.


The procedure pictured here is being performed on an '87 Suzuki Samurai rear third member. First the third member is removed from the axle a$$embly housing (first removing the axle shafts to allow removal of the third member). Once the third member is on the bench, it is marked with a punch so that the parts go back in their original orientation (this is very important).


Once disassembled, the side gears are cleaned thoroughly in solvent. Now they are ready to be welded. The choice of welding process is primarily based on what is available at the time. Welded diffs are often referred to as Lincoln Lockers because they were commonly welded with Lincoln stick welders in the past. These days a lot of 4wheelers have MIG welders and they work just fine. You could even use TIG if you have that available and feel comfortable with that process.


Once the appropriate pattern and number of valleys to be welded have been determined for any particular application, the welding commences. In this case our secret tech monkey filled the gaps to the top of the teeth ridges, then ground the welds flush with an angle grinder. He reassembled the carrier and third member, then checked the ring and pinion backlash and contact pattern.


With the third reinstalled in the Samurai, I was able to traverse many new obstacles with the added traction. With the welded rear, I experienced wheel chirping on pavement, and accelerated tire wear. With an open diff I ran 20-22psi in the tires, but in order to minimize the chirping and tire wear effects of the locker I started running 30psi.


Ideally you would want to install a full carrier replacing locker such as a Detroit or ARB locker or even a spool to get the most strength out of the unit. On the other-hand, if you don't have a lot of money, and don't mind the possibility of breaking the carrier or related parts (nice to have spares) then this is a cheap way to go.


Note: The pattern welded on the Samurai side gears are in a double wing butterfly pattern because the Samurai differential uses four spider gears
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Stolen FAQ:

1.


What… ?




1.1
What is a Samurai?

The Samurai (as it is known in the USA) is a short wheel-base 4x4 sport utility vehicle (SUV). It was available in both hard-top and convertible models. Standard was a 1300cc single-overhead cam engine and leaf springs.



1.2
What years were they imported to the United States?

400,000 Samurais were imported from 1986 through 1995.



1.3
What other names refer to the Samurai?


Australia
|
Sierra


Parts of Asia
|
Caribbean, Caribian


Japan
|
Jimny


Various Countries
|
SJ413



1.4
What are the biggest tires I can run?

[Noel Van Hook]



Height: Pure stock with biggest you can fit is 27". Mickey Thompson and Interco both make nice 27x9.5 tires that will fit stock no problem. A 215x75R15 will fit also. People will say you can go bigger, but any larger will rub under full suspension compression! Lots of people don't care about that, and so put 28" tires on anyway.



With a 1" shackle lift (2" longer shackles) and minor trimming on the front bumper you can fit 29" tires. This includes 235/75R15 tires. Trimming is easy. It can be done with a hacksaw, and is done on the inside of the bumper, so it doesn't show. The shackle lift is easy too, and 1" is small enough that the stock shocks will work.



Width: Pure stock the widest you can go is 9.5". Any wider and you rub the bumper when turning the wheel. With minor bumper trimming (see above) you can go to 10.5". You can use standard 3.5" backspacing and you'll still clear the springs at full turn.



What I have: I run 29x10.5 swampers on 15x7 wheels, standard backspacing. To get them to fit I added a 1" shackle lift, and trimmed the front bumper. No fender trimming was required. They do not rub, ever. The truck has a nice wide, aggressive stance. The wheels hang out about an inch from the fender flares, so they do tend to throw the mud around. But they also do a good job of protecting my fenders from damage, too.



[Larry Harris]



Tire Size
29x9.5
30x9.5
31x10.5
32x11.5
33x12.5


Lift Required
1.5
2
3 - 4
4 - 5
5+


Body Mods
None
None
Minor
Minor
Required


http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tech/btire.htm



has additional information about tires and lifts.



1.5
What mods should I make to improve general trail-worthiness if I only have $1000 to spend?

[Mike Graham]



When I asked this question, I got several different answers to this one. Here they are:



Jonathan Hall says: "Lock right, s/o, diff gears."



Noel VanHook says: "Rock Lobster and tires."



James Hiers says: "Rocklobster transfer case and lockrite."



I'm going to amalgamate these answers and come up with a different one. I'm going to say that for general trail running the best $1000 spent to keep you moving is going to be spent on a lockrite and tires. A rocklobster is a great thing to have if you're playing on steep rocks, but a locker and tires is the best $1000 you're going to spend for general trail use. If you're building a rock-crawler, then the rocklobster and s/o just might be your best route, but never underestimate the value of good tires. Oh yeah, I'd put that locker on the front. Now, if you're planning on putting big tires on it (like 30s; see the section on tire sizes) then you may well be better off going with Noel VanHook's suggestion of tires and a rocklobster, because the increased tire size is going to reduce your torque, which the rocklobster will compensate for, both on and off road.




Back to Top



2.


How… ?




2.1
How tough are Sammies?

Although many of the drive-train components are tiny to the point of being "cute", they are more than strong enough for the stock engine. When you start swapping in bigger engines, or increasing the power of the stock engine, and then start hurling your Sammy down boulder-strewn passages that a mountain goat would think twice about attempting, that's when you start breaking things. Of the stock drive-train components, the only consistent breakage (and again, this is only in extreme situations) is u-joints, and even then only certain people, like Glenn Wakefield, break them regularly. I think it's a Karmic imbalance thing. :cool:: There have been reports of aftermarket diff gears breaking if they're not set up just right.



2.2
How do I get more power out of my 1300cc engine?

[Mike Graham]


Whether the engine is fuel injected or not, it can benefit from:


K&N air filter ($50)

MSD Ignition system

Tri-Y exhaust header

2" Free-flowing exhaust

Performance camshaft


The favorite seems to be the header and 2" exhaust. Almost everybody asked put that in their top 3 mods to make to a 1300.



If the engine in question is carbureted, then look into replacing the stock carb with a Weber.



2.3
How do you get the @#$& valve cover off?

[Mike Graham]



When the crank is turned by way of the crank pulley center bolt (using a 17mm socket) to the TDC point (the white notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the "0" on the ignition timing marks), then the intake valve rocker on cylinder #4 will be enough out of the way that you can raise the front of the cover (after removing the bolts, of course) and roll the cover to the right to sneak the back left corner out from under the vacuum advance on the distributor. Getting it back on is just a real drag in the dirt.



This is going to sound excessive, but I honestly find it easier to pull the distributor. Really. Firstly, use a scriber to make a mark on the dist body and the mount, so that you can easily realign it. Once you have the crank at TDC you just remove the distributor hold-down bolt, and the whole unit slides up and out. Even if you don't want to actually pull the dist, you can just turn it clockwise a few degrees to move the vacuum advance out of the way, and you will find that life is much, much easier. This is far easier than screwing around trying to get the cover off with the distributor in place. When the cover has been replaced and bolted down, just turn the distributor body back so that the marks line up again, and tighten the hold-down bolt. I usually check my ignition timing afterwards, but you can get away with not doing it if you line your marks up correctly. If you later decide to permanently change your ignition timing, just sand off the old marks, set the new timing, and make new marks.



2.4
How do I relocate my breathers?

[Mike Graham, with info from Thom Batty]



Get yourself 15' or so of plastic tubing with an inner diameter of ½". Using a pair of vise-grips, remove the cap from each breather, attach the end of the hose and fasten with a hose clamp. Using zip-ties, run the hoses to the engine compartment (leaving enough slack near the axle for axle travel) and cut off the extra hose. You can end the hose in one of two ways; either spend the money on some inline filters (fuel filters or whatever) and top the hoses with that, or just end the hoses in an arch like the top of a candy cane; if the open end of the "candy cane" runs down about 8" or so, you won't need to worry about water getting in. Higher is better. If you run a snorkel, then just plumb the hose into the snorkel so that it uses the same air supply.



2.5
How do I get the slop out of my steering?

[Larry Harris]

There is a lock nut and adjusting screw on top of the steering box. The proper way to adjust it is with the preload method. You will need a spring scale to measure the starting torque of the worm shaft (the one with the rubber piece that goes to the steering shaft) it should be between 1.58 - 2.63 kg when adjusted properly.



There have been many that just turn in on the screw a little to remove the free play. Be careful with this method, but it does work. Do not over-tighten the screw. Make a small adjustment and cycle the wheel from stop to stop and make sure it still has free travel with no hard spots.



2.6
How do I re-center my steering wheel?

[Larry Harris]



The steering wheel can not be re-centered unless you remove the wheel itself or the u-joint on the steering shaft. The only adjustment we have is for toe.

To remove the wheel, pull off the horn button and loosen the nut holding the wheel in place. Don't remove the nut completely, so's not to bop yourself in the nose with the wheel. Pull the wheel free (a puller is not required). Remove the nut, reposition the steering wheel and fasten it back down.




Back to Top



3.


Where can I find… ?




3.1
Where can I find more info on my Samurai?

On the Suzuki Pages of Off-Road.com, of course!



http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/



3.2
Where can I find more info on the Suzuki mailing list?

http://www.golden.net/~juliag/suzuki/suzuki.guestbook.html



3.3
Where can I find the fuel filter?

[Mike Graham]



Way at the back of the vehicle, inside of the passenger side frame rail, just forward of the rear axle is a small pop-can sized filter.




Back to Top



4.


Why… ?




4.1
Why does my Samurai hesitate when I accelerate?

[Gary Munck]



The secondary throttle plate is operated by vacuum, there is a little hole that is the port for this vacuum.



The flat spot you are feeling is caused when the secondary either does not open or opens and then closes partially as the vacuum drops in the manifold. I hope this clears up the mystery.



On most carbs it is necessary to move the opening of this port out into the air flow. There is a small tube available that can fix the problem in the majority of Samurais.



For more information see:



http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tech/tb4-06.htm



4.2
Why does my shift lever wobble around?

[Off-Road.com]



Because the locating pin that's supposed to hold it in the proper position has broken off. You need to replace it with a new one, both an easy and a cheap fix. See:



http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/shiftlever.htm



for full details.



4.3
Why is my shift lever stuck?

[Mike Graham]



Because the locating pin that's supposed to hold it in the proper position has broken off and things got way out of whack. See 4.2 immediately above.



What is actually happening is the toe of the shifter is caught somewhere it isn't supposed to be, and can't get back. The solution is to remove the entire shifter a$$embly.


Now look into the gearbox. There are metal bars running front to back. There are notches in the bars that should line up to form a channel from side to side. If they don't, then get a big screwdriver and poke them around until they do. The channel will line up with the notch in the reverse gear spring.


Once the channel is lined up, just reinstall the shifter.



4.4
Why is my t-case selector popping out of position (or stuck)?

[Off-Road.com]



Because the "sheet" (as Suzuki names it, a piece that guides the transfer case shifter) in the transfer case has worn out. Order a new one and replace it. The part number is 29541-80051.



4.5
Why is my fuel pump leaking oil?

[Off-Road.com] [How to replace it yourself]



It's shot. And it'll leak a lot of oil, so keep a close eye on the engine oil level until you get it replaced.



4.6
Why should I put a locker in the rear axle before the front?

[Don Schultz]

There are a couple of compelling reasons for installing your first locking type differential in the rear axle first:



1) Much of a vehicle's weight transfers to the rear wheels when driving up steep hills. This places most of the burden for climbing traction on the rear wheels. The shorter the wheel base, the more pronounced the effect. Under extreme conditions you can't afford to lose any traction on a back tire, even in 4wd. A good driver, with a suitably equipped 2wd and locking rear axle, can go places thought only accessible by 4wd.



2) If you are like most recreational 4x4 drivers, you spend more time in 2wd on the street than in 4wd off-road. With a locker in the rear your vehicle benefits from the added traction in both on and off-road service.



Note: Please don't misunderstand. I like and own front wheel drive vehicles but... there's a myth floating around that front wheel drive vehicles climb better than rear wheel drive vehicles. This is only because the rear wheel drive vehicles that were tested lacked positive traction (a locker) to both wheels. The same laws of physics apply to towing. That's one reason why rear wheel drive vehicles in general are used to pull heavier loads than front wheel drives.



Bottom line for 4x4'ers... two lockers are better than one, but if you must choose, stick it in your rear!




Back to Top



5.


Who… ?




5.1
Who is the author of this FAQ?

Originally it was compiled by Mike Graham. Currently, it's Scott Gomez, Editor of the Suzuki pages on Off-Road.com. Updates, additions and corrections to the FAQ should be sent to: [email protected] Various questions were answered by all sorts of people, often via the suzuki4x4 mailing list hosted at Off-road.com. The authors of various answers are listed in square brackets at the beginning of the section they provided.



5.2
Who sells parts for the Samurai?

Lots of people. Here are the general parts suppliers that specialize in Suzuki. All are United States unless otherwise noted. Please mention that you reached them courtesy of Off-Road.com.



Calmini Products Manufacturing
+1 (800) 345-3305


Hawk Strictly Suzuki
+1 (800) 685-8119


National 4x4 Competition Centre (Canada)
Fax: +1 (250) 835-4557


Petroworks Off-road Products
+1 (800) 952-8915


Quadratec
+1 (800) 745-5337


Samurai Specialties
+1 (916) 642-0436


Victory Engineering
+1 (310) 793-8585


Wild West Off Road
+1 (888) 398-7649




Back to Top



6.


When… ?




6.1
When is this FAQ updated?

When we have time and sufficient new material to require it or when we get fed up answering a given question via email (whichever occurs first).



6.2
When is this FAQ gonna end?

Right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another Stolen FAQ:

Suzuki FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions




We get a lot of questions from Suzuki owners, and we certainly don't mind answering them. But since so many people have the same questions, it's sometimes easier to direct newbies to a FAQ where their questions are already answered. Plus, not everyone wants to wait around for us to get back to them with an answer that could already be available on our site.



However, not all of the FAQs out there are 100% correct, so we decided to write our own. A couple years ago, one of our members wrote the FAQ currently found at Roadless Gear, so we used that as the basis for our FAQ. However, before we posted it on our site, we felt it could use some updates and additions to bring it up to date.



As we gather more information and answer more of your questions, we will continue to update our FAQ. If you have a question that we haven't already answered here, don't hesitate to e-mail us or visit our Q&A page. And of course, if it appears we've made a mistake or have incomplete information that you can add to, please let us know!







Table of Contents


General Information
What is a Samurai?
What other names has it gone by around the world?
What years were they produced?
What configurations were available?
How capable are they off-road?
What major changes did Suzuki make to the Samurai during the time it was sold in America?


Common Modifications
Traction Adding Devices (TADs)
Automatic Lockers
Manual Lockers
Limited Slip Differentials
Increasing Horsepower
1300 Performance Modifications
Suzuki Engine Swaps
Other Engine Swaps
Suspension Modifications
Spring-Over-Axle Conversion (SPOA)
Arched Springs
Shackle Reversal
Extended Shackles
Hinged Shackles
1/4-Elliptic
3/4-Elliptic
Coil Springs
Body Lift
Skidplating
Belly Pan
Rocker Panels
Axles
Bumpers


Common Problems
Engine hesitation
Transmission shift lever wobbles or is stuck
Transfer case pops into neutral or shift lever is stuck
Clutch won't slip properly
Excessive steering wheel slop
Steering wheel off-center
Starter motor clicks when ignition key is turned
Proper flat-towing procedure


General Information
What is a Samurai?
Samurai is the name Suzuki used in the North American market for their small, rugged 4x4. Based on the basic design of the original Willys military Jeep, Suzuki improved on the design in every way, yet retained the same basic layout and dimensions. The end result was a lighter, stronger, more powerful, longer lasting, and more comfortable 4x4 with even greater on- and off-road capabilities. As Suzuki's successor to their earlier LJ-series 4x4s, the Samurai was responsible for Suzuki's successful entry into the U.S. market, and remains Suzuki's American sales leader. Due to its affordability, capability, and a plethora of aftermarket support, the Samurai has a loyal following of 4x4 enthusiasts, ranging from the occasional backwoods driver to the competitive rockcrawler.


What other names has it gone by around the world?
Suzuki Samurai (Europe, North America, Pacific Islands), SJ-410 (Japan, North America, Pacific Islands), SJ-413 (Japan, Canada, Pacific Islands), Jimny (Japan, Europe), Jimny Wide (Japan, Europe), Sierra (Australia), Santana (Spain, Europe, Pacific Islands), Caribian and Caribian Sporty (Southeast Asia), Katana (Indonesia), and Potohar (Pakistan). Maruti Gypsy (India). Chevrolet Samurai (South America). Holden Drover (Australia). Mazda AZ-Offroad (Japan).


What years were they produced?
The official introduction of the Samurai in the United States was for the 1986 model year, although a few SJ-410s were unofficially brought in by various means before then. Suzuki stopped exporting them to California in 1994, and the rest of the country in 1995. For the rest of the world, Suzuki had begun production of the SJ-series in 1982, and continues to build them today in several different factories. In many countries, the leaf-sprung model is sold alongside the later coil-sprung model and the all-new Jimny.


What configurations were available?
In the United States, Suzuki only imported the short-wheelbase, widetrack, leaf-sprung, 1.3-liter, 5-speed hardtop and convertible. Other parts of the world saw the availability of the 1.0-liter gasoline and 1.9-liter Peugeot and Renault diesel four-cylinder engines, a 4-speed transmission, narrow-track axles, and short- and long-wheelbase versions including raised Panaramic roofs, a crew cab, extended passenger versions, and two different pickup styles (solid or hinged bed sides). An elusive automatic transmission was listed in Suzuki's brochure, but exceptionally few examples of them have ever been seen. 1996 saw a redesign of the suspension at some of the factories, replacing the leaf springs with coils and control arms. In 1998 came the introduction of the new Jimny in various countries, which is basically the replacement for - but sold alongside - the Samurai. Available in narrow- and widetrack versions with either a hardtop or convertible with coil-sprung live axles and a true 4-wheel-drive system, it is true to the design of the original SJ-series.


How capable are they off-road?
Suzukis are very good off-roaders right from the factory. Unlike many sport-utility vehicles nowadays, the Samurai is equipped with a true part-time 4-wheel-drive transfer case with low range gears, solid axles front and rear, and manual-locking hubs. The overall design of the drivetrain and frame are well beyond anything a stock Samurai would need on-road or off. Even with lower gears and lockers in both axles, the drivetrain is good for 33-inch tires or larger, depending on driving style and terrain. With its light weight, small size, and some appropriate modifications, a Samurai can go anywhere other vehicles can go, and will usually go further even with fewer mods. On top of all that, the cost of a Samurai's buildup is a mere fraction of that of any other 4x4.


What major changes did Suzuki make to the Samurai during the time it was sold in America?
Suzuki followed Volkswagen's philosophy with the Beetle in their decision to design the Samurai to be a good, simple vehicle which they would refine - not change - over the course of its lifetime. Many refinements were made over the years, but comparing a 95 to an 86 shows how little was really changed.
1986: First year offered in the U.S: metal side- and rear-view mirrors, round dashboard vents, small plastic shifter knobs, 0.795 5th-gear ratio, 4-pin front differential, carbureted 1324-cc 64-hp engine, triangle-spoke wheels.
1987: Larger, plastic side- and rear-view mirrors, longer passenger-side front seat tracks, larger, more reclined rear seat.
1988: "Strange" year for Samurais, as they progessively implemented changes to 88.5 model year, so not all have every 88.5 changes.
1988.5: Redesigned dashboard with square vents, new leaf springs with teflon pads and softer ride, thicker anti-sway bar, 0.864 5th-gear ratio, big rubber shifter knobs, slight change to the grille, bigger radiator, larger pinion and transfer case driveshaft flanges, round-hole wheels.
1990: Throttle body fuel injection added to new 1298-cc 66-hp version of the engine, transmission and transfer case bearings changed to sealed design, 2-pin front differential, 2-wheel-drive models offered.
1993: New grille design.
1994: Rear seat option removed, last year sold in California.
1995: Last year sold in U.S.A.





Common Modifications


Traction Adding Devices (TADs)
In a stock open differential, power is normally transferred to both wheels through the differential. When a slippery surface is encountered, such as ice or mud, power will be transferred to whichever tire has the least traction. A Traction Adding Device in one or both differentials addresses this shortcoming off-road with varying degrees of impact on street driving characteristics. A TAD can often be the one deciding factor on whether a truck can make it through a trail or not, which is why they are so common. With the explosion in the Samurai's popularity, there are many options available:


Automatic Lockers: Automatic lockers are by far the most popular Traction Adding Device, manufactured by Tractech (Detroit EZ-Locker) and Powertrax (Lock-Right). These inexpensive ($190-250) units replace the spider gears (and optionally the sidegears) inside the carrier and do not allow for either halfshaft to spin slower than the ring gear. These units will unlock around a turn, however, allowing the outside wheel to free-wheel until its speed again matches that of the ring gear. They provide 100% lockup, so they are ideal for difficult off-roading. They are noticeable when driven on the street, but are not so intrusive as to be unsuitable for daily-driven vehicles. Their high price/performance ratio keeps them extremely popular. Unless your stock sidegears are damaged, there is no reason to spend the extra money to get the optional sidegears. Both designs work equally well. Are they safe to use in the snow? Read the article found in our Tech section.


Manual Lockers: Manual lockers provide 100% lockup on the trail and 0% lockup for the street, controlled in-cab at the driver's discretion via a cable or an electrically-triggered air valve. As a result, they are the most street-friendly lockers available, while still providing traction when needed. This does, however, come at a substantial cost and complexity over that of an automatic locker. ARB's Air Locker is the only readily-available manual locker for Suzukis, and it is known for its reliability.


Limited Slip Differentials: A Limited Slip Differential typically uses clutches or within the differential to progressively lock the speed of the two axleshafts more tightly as their speed differentiates. It operates in much the same way as an automatic locker, locking and unlocking automatically. As a result, it is very street friendly and provides much more traction than an open differential. It does not provide 100% lockup like a locker does, however, but this can be advantageous for those who wish to reduce the chance of axle breakage while retaining most of the benefits a locker provides. Limited Slip Differentials should not be used for heavy-duty or extended off-road use, however, as they quickly overheat and will wear out prematurely. Another type of Limited Slip Differential, called a Viscous Limited Slip Differential, works on the same theory as an automatic transmission's torque converter. Using fluid to transfer a percentage of the torque from the spinning wheel to the tractive wheel, traction is enhanced but still does not provide full differential lockup. Viscous Limited-Slips are not as prone to wearing out, but they will easily overheat and are not to be considered a viable replacement for a true locker for off-road use.


Increasing Horsepower
While the 1.3-liter engine has plenty of power for a stock Suzuki, big tires and increased wind resistance on modified trucks quickly overcomes the stock engine. Low gears can solve this problem in most off-road situations, but highway-driven Zuks need more power. There are many options that have become available.


1300 Performance Modifications: For its size, a 1300 makes a lot of power, but there is a lot of room left to come up with more. A 1300 can be built to do 3rd-gear burnouts while still being very street-friendly. Bolt-on mods that will net more power include a new carburetor (single downdraft Weber or Pony, dual sidedraft Webers or Mikunis), a new cam, a header with 2-inch exhaust, and high-compression pistons. Traditional hot-rodding tricks, including porting & polishing the intake, milling the head, boring the cylinders up to 40-thousandths over, and other tricks require taking the engine to a machine shop. To summon up a lot of power, a Suzuki Swift GT 1300 bottom end can be bolted on, as can the 8-valve head from an early 1600 Suzuki Sidekick or a Tracker (for its larger valves) or the 16-valve 1600 head from the later 'Kicks. A swap to the later Samurai's throttle body fuel injection is another fairly easy upgrade.


Suzuki Engine Swaps: There are many options when it comes to performing an engine swap into a Samurai. The simplest swap is the 8-valve 1600 from a Sidekick or Tracker, which can be bolted in with an engine swap kit available from several Suzuki aftermarket vendors. This should give a significant increase in power and torque while being straightforward and affordable, and provides the option of either carburetion or TBFI. For even more power, the 16-valve 1600 from the later year Sidekicks and Trackers can bolt in with a kit, retaining its multi-port fuel injection or swapping to carburetion for simplicity. The 1600 engines can be used with the Samurai's transmission with an adapter, or the transmission from a 2-wheel-drive Sidekick or Tracker with modification to the transmission tunnel and a shortened intermediate shaft. Other Suzuki engines have been swapped into Samurais, including the 16-valve 1300 from the Swift GT, the 1800 from a Sidekick Sport, and the 2000 from the new Vitara. The ultimate would be the 2500 V6 from the Grand Vitara or the 2700 V6 from the Grand Vitara XL-7.


Other Engine Swaps: Swap kits for a few other engines have been developed for the Samurai, including the Ford V6s, the Chevy 4.3-liter V6, and the Volkswagen turbo diesel. These kits have been adapted to other engines, and others have done custom engine swaps, including Chevy and Ford small-block V8s, the GM Quad 4, Pinto 2300s, Volkswagen gasoline engines, and the Mazda rotary engine.


Suspension Modifications:
There are so many different suspension modification options available for the Samurai, deciding which one is right for you can be a daunting task. There are lifts to meet every budget, terrain type, and personal preference, ranging from mild to wild. Every lift is different, however, because each one affects the vehicle's handling uniquely. The point of a lift, of course, is to improve the off-road capability of the vehicle by allowing the use of larger tires and by increasing the vehicle's ability to articulate the axles, keeping the tires planted firmly on the ground where they can get grip. But with every lift, there are compromises. More extreme suspension modifications will ideally yield better off-road performance, but this usually comes at the expense of on-road driveability. Even two identical types of lift can result in different performance as a result of countless factors, but generalizations can be made. The more off-road oriented a lift is, the more it can be expected to drive differently than the stock setup, and the more it will typically cost. Also depending on your own particular needs, the different suspension modifications can oftentimes be combined so that their improvements compliment each other and become greater than the sum of their parts.


Spring-Over-Axle Conversion (SPOA): The Spring-Over-Axle (SPOA) conversion is by far the most popular due in no small part to its well-roundedness. SPOAs perform well in any terrain. By relocating the axles from above to below the leaf springs, an easy 4.5 inches (or more) of lift can be obtained with minimal cost and complexity, allowing the use of 32 inch tires. Additionally, this type of lift yields a substantial increase in articulation, an improved ride, and very good on-road manners if built properly. The price can vary a lot, from $250-$700 from a shop, or less than $100 if you build it yourself. It also allows for future modifications, since lifted springs, new shackles, and other mods will work well with it. Other components that will be affected by a SPOA include driveshaft angles and length, steering geometry, brake line and shock absorber length. Welding the new spring pads to the axle housings also requires setting proper spring pad angles and making sure that the welds do not cause any damage.


Arched Springs: Lift springs are a very easy way to fit larger tires and gain articulation, since they simply bolt on in place of the stock springs. Arched springs are available in several different heights to tailor the suspension to your individual needs, allowing for up to 31 inch tires. The additional distance between the frame and the axles allows for an increase in articulation. Some brands of springs are stiffer than stock, which is good for load-carrying ability, but is bad for articulation and ride quality. Too-soft of a spring can yield less-than-expected lift height and poor on-road handling, but luckily this hasn't seemed to be much of a problem for Suzukis. The price for a set of lift springs is usually between $200-400, and they preserve the ability for future suspension modifications. Other components that the additional spring height will affect are driveshaft angles and length, steering geometry, brake line and shock absorber length.


Shackle Reversal: A shackle reversal refers to a change in the front springs' mounting points. Shackle reversals yield a small increase in lift, but are generally designed to be more of a geometry change for altered handling characteristics than to be an actual lift kit. The shackle reversal moves the spring shackle from the front of the front springs to the rear, and moves the solid mount to the front of the springs. This usually gives around 2 inches of lift, due to the new spring mounts and shackles, which is enough to allow for 225/75 tires. The stock (factory) front spring and shackle setup's suspension geometry results in the front axle moving forward on compression and moving rearward on droop. A shackle reversal reverses this, causing the front axle to move rearward on compression and forward on droop. This results in a slightly improved ride since the wheels can more easily roll over bumps, which also creates a key improvement in off-road ability, allowing a tire to smoothly climb vertically without causing any bindup for the other 3 tires to contend with as they roll forward. However, this suspension setup does require compromises. Brake dive and body roll are increased, since the front axle wants to move rearward under compression. Tire rub becomes more of an issue for the same reason, where the tire contacts the rearward portion of the front wheelwell sooner. Poorly-designed front spring hangers are oftentimes called "fangs" because they hang so far down below the frame, sometimes causing approach angle problems in rough terrain. On more extreme off-road trails where articulation becomes a serious factor, driveshaft separation from droop, and bottoming out of the slip yoke from compression, can lead to the vehicle getting stuck or experiencing damage, especially to the transfer case. For street and light-duty off-road use, a truck with a shackle reversal would not experience these more serious problems, but for more difficult off-road trails, a custom long-travel front driveshaft is necessary. Shackle reversals can be welded or bolted on, and are available from around $250. On its own, a shackle reversal's benefits are limited by the capabilities of the springs, thus it is best used in conjunction with other suspension modifications. A shackle reversal can be combined with arched springs or a SPOA, or designed to accomodate longer, wider springs.


Extended Shackles: Installing longer shackles is one of the easiest modifications that can be made to a Samurai. By simply replacing the stock shackles with a set of longer, stronger ones, up to 2 inches of lift - enough for 225/75 tires - can be had at minimal cost and complication. A pair of longer shackles can also be used front or rear to level out an uneven front/rear suspension height. A little increase in articulation and a slightly smoother ride come as a result of a shackle lift, due to more distance between the axle and the bumpstops. The tradeoffs to using longer shackles are the fact that like a shackle reversal, the ends of the springs are pushed down lower to the ground, hurting the approach and departure angles. Also, a little increase in wander in the steering can be felt, since the front axle gets rolled forward, reducing the caster. Due to the slight change in suspension height, the steering geometry is changed enough to cause a minor amount of bump steer. Longer shackles also allow for the springs to have more leverage against the shackle bushings, adding a bit more "slop" to the handling. Oftentimes this is imperceptible, but the use of polyurethane bushings to replace the factory rubber bushings can help minize this. It is for these reasons that shackles more than 4 inches longer than stock are strongly discouraged. For a small amount of lift, though, longer shackles are a highly rated option, especially for a tight budget. A full set of shackles can be easily built or purchased for under $150.


Hinged Shackles: Hinged shackles are a variation on the 3/4-elliptic suspension setup. These special jointed shackles allow for an essentially bolt-on increase in articulation. There are a few different variants on the market for use with stock-length springs, but the maximum benefit comes from the variants that utilize longer leaf springs, which provide a smoother ride and greater wheel travel at the expense of necessitating frame extensions and new springs. Hinged shackles are fully useable on a daily-driven vehicle and the cost is surprisingly low. However, due to the great amount of increase in wheel travel, longer shock absorbers, brake lines, and oftentimes driveshafts are also required.


1/4-Elliptic: 1/4-elliptic suspensions are a variation of the standard leaf-spring setup, and classified under the "extreme" category. Replacing the stock suspension setup - which uses a 1/2-elliptic spring - with a shorter leaf spring pack that terminates at the axle instead of a shackle, a great deal of wheel travel can be attained. Properly set up, a 1/4-elliptic suspended vehicle should be safe on the road, but generally it is used only on the trail. A 1/4-elliptic setup requires a great deal of modification, relegating it to those owners with a lot of fabrication experience, a bigger budget, and a second vehicle for use as a daily driver.


3/4-Elliptic: Like the 1/4 elliptic suspension, the 3/4-elliptic setup (often called a "buggy spring" or "buggy leaf") is a variation of the standard leaf-spring setup, and intended for maximum articulation off-road. Adding to the standard 1/2-elliptic factory setup another 1/2-length spring from the shackle to the frame above the axle, a 3/4-elliptic setup should be driveable on the street while articulating very well on the trail. Although an easier modification than a 1/4-elliptic setup, the 3/4-elliptic suspension is usually tackled only by those who drive their vehicles primarily off-road and who have the fabrication skills and a backup vehicle at their disposal.


Coil Springs: Coil spring suspension conversions are capable of providing the greatest increase in wheel travel and the smoothest, most controlled ride. However, this comes at great cost and complexity compared to other suspension upgrades. Usually set up similarly to a 1/4-elliptic design (but utilizing coil springs rather than 1/2-leaf springs) a lot of modifications must be made. The end result, though, is the best suspension available.


Body Lift: Although not technically a suspension modification, a body lift can still be effective in increasing tire clearance and allowing for more suspension travel. Body lifts are best used when a little extra tire clearance is required when you want to leave the suspension alone. By putting spacers between the body and frame, up to 3 inches of lift can safely be attained. Keep in mind that a body lift affects such things as the shift levers, bumper height, and underhood connections. However, body lifts are cheap (around $100) and fairly easy, and do not create steering geometry problems and suspension alterations. A simple, small body lift for a Samurai can even be made by simply flipping the stock body mounts upside-down.


Skidplating:
Skidplating is a very important part of any off-road vehicle. Drivetrain or body damage can easily happen as a result of even one rock or log. The cost of a skidplate is much less than the cost and time spent replacing a damaged part.


Belly Pan: Probably the most important skidplate on a truck, the belly pan skidplate spans from frame rail to frame rail between the front and rear wheels, protecting the transfer case. Plus, when maxing the breakover angle, the transfer case is made very vulnerable. Since over a thousand dollars can be invested into the transfer case, an investment in a belly pan skidplate is important. With a strong one, the ability to safely slide the truck over a hump, a log, or a rock without causing terminal damage to your transfer case is critical.


Rocker Panels: On rocky trails especially, the rocker panels are especially vulnerable. Without some strong skidplate protection, the rocker panels can cave in, preventing the doors from opening or closing. With a good, strong skidplate or nerf bar, the ability to put the front wheel over a tall rock and slide the body along it until the rear wheel can crawl over it can make a big difference.


Axles: A set of axle skidplates can save your truck from an unseen rock or allow the axles to slide across rocks that are too big to get over any other way. Sets of pumpkin caps, trusses, or full-length skidplates are available for less than the cost of replacing a bent axle or damaged differential.


Bumpers: On tougher trails, a good set of bumpers can definitely come into use as skidplates, protecting the body from big rocks. Although bumpers are typically used for on-road protection and for mounting winches and tire carriers, a well-designed bumper can increase trail clearance and make it easier to slide over an obstacle.






Common Problems


Engine hesitation: The stock carburetor has a flat-spot around 3000rpm. This is caused by the drop in vacuum in the manifold through the vent hole in the secondary throttle plate, causing the secondary to not open properly. The simple addition of an inexpensive carburetor vent tube will cure this problem. This OEM part is available from several of the Suzuki aftermarket companies.


Transmission shift lever wobbles or is stuck: The shift lever locating pin can be broken, causing the stock transmission's shift lever to become very loose. The broken piece of the pin can get wedged in there, and the shift lever can become misaligned. The broken piece can also become wedged in the gears and lock up the transmission or chip the gears' teeth. A new shift lever locating pin, which is just a special 12mm bolt with a pin sticking out the end of it, can be purchased from a dealer or several of the Suzuki aftermarket manufacturers. To install the shift lever properly, make sure the linkage inside the transmission is properly aligned and it should go right in.


Transfer case pops into neutral or shift lever is stuck: The transfer case shifter "sheet" wears out, causing it to either become stuck or to slip out of gear on its own. This is an inexpensive part that can be purchased from a dealer or any of several Suzuki aftermarket companies and easily installed.


Clutch won't slip properly: The first thing to check is that the clutch cable is in good shape. The cable can become frayed within its housing, causing it to stick or have rough engagement. Replace it with a Genuine Suzuki clutch cable, as the aftermarket replacements are not known for their quality. If the clutch will not smoothly engage regardless of its adjustment or condition, it could be due to the bushings being worn out on the clutch release shaft within the transmission. This causes the throwout bearing to stick on the transmission's input shaft, which prevents a smooth engagement of the clutch.


Excessive steering wheel slop: If your steering wheel turns more than about 1/2-inch without turning the pitman arm, then it should be tightened. On top of the steering box at the end of the steering shaft there is a lock nut and adjusting screw. While the preload of the worm shaft can be precisely set at 1.58 to 2.63 kg, it is not necessary to measure it. Tighten the adjusting screw a little, and check the steering slop. Keep tightening and checking it progressively until there is less than 1/2-inch of slop in the steering wheel. Be very careful not to overtighten it. Before driving, check the full travel of the steering to make sure there aren't any stiff spots anywhere in its travel, and loosen it if there are. If the steering is still loose on-center when it's tightened to the point of binding up while it's turned off-center, your steering box's worm gear is worn and no amount of adjustment will completely cure it; a replacement steering box is the only cure. The steering box rarely fails, so replacement is purely to rid the sloppy on-center feel.


Steering wheel off-center: From the factory, the steering wheel comes properly aligned and shouldn't change unless the truck is lifted or some of the steering linkage gets bent. Rather than recentering the steering wheel, the proper way to re-center the steering wheel is by fixing the problem, not the symptom. Lifting the truck without addressing the steering not only causes bumpsteer, but also reduces the steering angle to the right, increasing it to the left. A new drag link of the proper length will set the steering wheel angle back to its proper alignment. If you don't want to address the steering geometry, you must remove the steering wheel and re-center it on the steering shaft's splines. Pull on the horn button at the steering wheel's hub to remove it, and loosen the nut at the center. A puller is almost always required to remove the wheel from its splines the first time. Reposition it, and tighten the nut back down before reinstalling the horn button.


Starter motor clicks when ignition key is turned: This is a common problem where the starter will only click when the ignition key is turned, rather than starting the motor. There are several possible causes of this. Typically, if the battery is in good shape and is fully charged with good connections, the starter's problem could be caused by a bad key ignition switch, a loose, corroded, or broken wire at the starter, a corroded solenoid plunger, a bad clutch pedal lockout switch, or worn brushes within the starter. Typically, this problem is caused by too-little voltage getting to the starter motor due to age and corrosion all along the ignition system and in the ignition and clutch pedal switches. Many Suzuki owners go for years without fixing it, just becoming accustomed to turning the key repeatedly, clicking several times before it'll start. Others have wasted money on new or rebuilt starters, only to find that the problem persists. The least expensive fix is to use the wire going from the ignition as the trigger for a 30-amp relay going from the battery to the starter.


Proper flat-towing prcedure: To tow your Samurai with all four wheels on the ground, follow this procedure to ensure you do not damage your vehicle's drivetrain: Front hubs unlocked, key in the ignition with the steering wheel unlocked, transmission in 2nd gear, transfer case in neutral. Suzuki recommends that every 200 miles, the engine is started up and allowed to run with the transmission in gear and the transfer case in neutral so that the oil in the transfer case can circulate through the bearings, but most owners just do this at every gas stop, allowing the Samurai to idle in gear as they fill up their tow rig. Alternately, you can remove the rear driveshaft when towing, which keeps the transfer case from turning so all you need to do is make sure you have the front hubs unlocked and have the key in the ignition to keep the steering unlocked.
 

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OMG! :shock: You've sure done your research Whitefish! You are now officially a walking, talking encyclopedia on Suzuki's! :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You're being warned - this post doesn't really belong here... But it IS Suzuki related, so here it goes:

The world's fastest Samurai:



Our hero was happily driving along a western desert highway in his lifted and locked Samurai when, all of a sudden, the beastly little 4x4 just died. Perplexed, he pulled off to the shoulder, got out and lifted the hood.



Now, being a suspension wizard, but knowing nothing about motors, he just shrugged his shoulders and resolved to try to flag someone down.



After a short time, a dust cloud appeared on the horizon, immediately preceded by a bullet travelling at an extremely high rate of speed. A Dodge Viper was upon him in no time. He frantically waved his arms, but the bullet just screamed past. Disappointed, thinking that the driver had not seen him, he turned to slowly walk back to his ailing Samurai.



Arriving at the side of his Suzuki, he heard the squeal of tires and looked back to see the Viper returning in reverse. Out from the car climbed a long, lean individual, kind of a young Clint Eastwood of the spaghetti western days.



The owner of the Dodge offered to help the Samurai guy out by giving him a tow to the next town, about 20 miles down the road. Accepting graciously, our hero only requested that the Viper keep it below 40 mph, because Samurais, as we all know, are subject to spontaneous roll-overs at anything more than crawling velocities. Upon departure, the Dodge guy gave our comrade instructions to simply flash the headlights if he began to travel too fast. As they slowly pulled onto the road, our Samurai guy switched on his emergency flashers, not noticing that one side was not functioning.



Following along at tow rope length behind the Viper, Mr. Samurai then saw another dust cloud in his rearview. It was closing so fast on his 4x4 that he braced for a rear end collision. However, the Corvette driver got on the binders at the last instant and laughed at the scare he gave to our off-road enthusiast.



Only when pulling out to pass did the Chevy driver see the low slung Viper in front of the short but tall Samurai.



Now, sports car drivers being the species of animal that they are, simply cannot stand to be overtaken by another car. So, the Dodge guy slammed it into third and proclaimed, "We're off to the races". Our hero, realizing the situation, began frantically to flash his headlights, but to no avail. 70, 80, 90, 100 mph and climbing. Helpless, the Samurai guy valiantly gripped the steering wheel as the two maniacs screamed down the road, side by side...



With the speed still climbing, the three-car convoy reached the crest of a hill and broke down over the other side. "Uh oh," a radar trap. However, the drivers of the Viper and Corvette didn't even get off the gas and screamed past the cop at 130 mph!!!



The police officer jumped into his black and white, headed out in pursuit and radioed ahead for backup.



"Attention County Sheriff Smith. Attention Sheriff Smith. We've got a hell of a drag race out here on the Interstate. A Viper and a Corvette passed side by side through my radar at 130 miles an hour, with a Suzuki Samurai hot on their a$$, signalling to let him pass!!!"




Why Suzukis are better than women:


They don't get pregnant.
You can drive your Suzuki any time of the month.
Suzukis don't have parents.
They don't whine unless something is really wrong.
You can share your Suzuki with your friends.
They don't care how many other Suzukis you've ridden.
When driving, you and your Suzuki can arrive at the same time.
They don't care how many other Suzukis you have.
They don't care if you look at other Suzukis.
Suzukis don't care if you buy Suzuki magazines.
You'll never hear, "Surprise! You're going to own a new Suzuki!"...unless you go out and get it yourself.
If your Suzuki goes flat, you can fix it.
If your Suzuki is too loose, you can tighten it.
If your Suzuki is misaligned, you don't have to discuss politics with it.
You can have a Suzuki of any color and still bring it home to your parents.
You don't have to be jealous of the guy who works on your Suzuki.
If you say bad things to your Suzuki, you don't have to apologize before you can drive it again.
You can drive your Suzuki as long as you want and it won't get sore.
You can stop driving your Suzuki as soon as you want and it won't get frustrated.
Your parents won't remain in touch with your old Suzuki after you dump it.
Suzukis don't get headaches.
Suzukis don't insult you if you're a bad driver.
Your Suzuki never wants a night out with the other Suzukis.
Suzukis don't care if you're late.
You don't have to take a shower before you ride your Suzuki.
If your Suzuki doesn't look good, you can paint it or get better parts.
You can drive your Suzuki the first time you meet it, without having to take it to dinner, see a movie, or meet its mother.
The only protection you have to wear when driving your Suzuki is a decent seat belt.
When in mixed company, you can talk about what a great drive you had the last time you were in your Suzuki.
Your Suzuki is never embarrassed to go topless in public.
You only have to feed your Suzuki when you use it.
A rocky relationship with your Suzuki is actually fun.
Suzukis don't care how much money you spend on them.
You never have to worry about your Suzuki spending your money.
You don't have to remember your Suzuki's birthday, when you first met, or anniversaries.



You know you have a real Suzuki if...


It's smaller than everything else on the trail.
You go out to get the Sunday paper and come back on Monday without it.
You use a hose to clean the outside and inside of your truck.
You own it outright.
The best route from point A to point B is through the mud, rockpile, or over the mountain (or all of the above).
When a scratch or dent is a beauty mark.
You roll it over and don't get upset.
Your mom and sister can't get in without help.
You judge every hill you see by how much fun it would be to climb.
You search for trails by helicopter.
You puke when you see a RAV4 or CR-V.
You get custom pin-striping from trail brush.
A low-rider Samurai pulls up next to you and you go bitch-slap the owner.
It takes more than 6 hours to run out to get donuts.
You pull into the unplowed parking spots on snowy days.
You take your friends 'wheeling and they say "What trail? I don't see a trail!"
You've been forced to add SJ410, SJ413, Escudo and Vitara to your spell-checker.
Your friends won't ride with you because they don't want to wind up in the desert in the middle of the night.
Your boss's secretary calls to "recommend" that you wash your Suzuki.
You finally wash the mud off, everyone thinks you bought a new Suzuki.
You can see over a Suburban.
You carry emergency supplies and clothing because you never know where you will end up.
Your nerf bars battle rocks and win.
It rains and you don't care that your tops and doors are off.
You drive around to look at Christmas lights topless.
You change your plugs in the parking lot at work on a break.
Your "parts dept." is on blocks behind your house.
You take your Mom 4-wheeling and she has to help you flip your Suzuki back up onto its wheels again.
You use an ice-scraper on the inside of the windshield.
You get more heat from the holes in the floorboards than through the heater vents.
Every page of your repair manual has greasy fingerprints.
Passengers scream "DON'T ROLL IT!" when you take them 4-wheeling.
You spend more time under your Suzuki than under your significant other.
Winter comes and you can't remember where you left the top.
You spend more on car washes than on insurance.
Even the car wash won't let you in.
You complain about everything, but smile when you fix everything yourself.
You think Mud Brown should be a factory paint color.
You feel sorry for someone in a $90,000 Hummer.
You slam the door and chunks of dried mud crumble to the ground.
You have all your credit card numbers memorized.
You get asked to pick up your co-workers in a snowstorm and get paid for it.
Your significant other refuses to get in your Suzuki.
You are the only one on the street who doesn't plow their driveway.
You are dating the Service, Parts, or Sales Manager at the Suzuki dealership.
You try to run the plow trucks off the road when it snows heavily.
You can't hear your $5000 stereo over the howl of your tires on the highway.
You have a high-water mark inside the Suzuki.
Any tire that isn't waist-high looks like a bagel.
You are constantly passed up on freeway hills.
Your passengers scream "We are going to die!!!"
You go through a car wash and clog the facility's drains.
You can push-start the engine without anyone else's help.



You might be a real 4-wheeler if...


You think Spam shish-ka-bobs on a phillips screw driver taste good.
You have ever had 2 wheels off the ground and said "We're in good shape."
You have ever "nuked" a microwave burrito on an intake manifold.
Your favorite cologne is 91 octane.
You have ever heard a counselor say "No, I don't think 38-inch Boggers will work well under your wife's Honda."
You like mud because it's high in minerals.
Every new dent you put in your truck pops 2 dents out.
You have to get the wheel barrow to clean off your driveway after washing your vehicle.
You think "protection from the elements" (i.e. a top and doors) is for wussies.
You have ever driven a vehicle for 10 hours straight and never exceeded 3mph.
Your favorite lotion is 90-weight.
You don't mind the funny smell inside your truck.
You consider a dent or scratch to be beauty mark or a characteristic trait.
When "mud brown" is your favorite automotive color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm currently also building a FAQ/Informative of my own right now, but it'll be based almost 90% on Samurais. I'm actually stealing information from other people, but including some of my own research, experience, and formatting style, as many of these are just a bitch to read through/get through. I should post that after a bit, but probably whenever the hell I take the time to finish it.
 
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