Sure enough, here come the tranny problems already....

Okay well you made no reference to the thing having been rebuilt 65k miles ago, in your initial post, so how was anybody supposed to know that?

The A518/46RH/46RE/47RH/47RE/48RE is, in essence, nothing more than the "old" Torqueflight 8 or, more commonly known, the Torqueflight 727 (3-speed non-overdriven automatic) found in Chrysler products from the '60s through the early '90s, with an overdrive unit added on to the tail section.

If you are familiar enough with performance "stuff", as though it sounds you'd be with all the you wrote about some Chevelle you have or had, I'm sure you're aware the venerable TF 727 is and was a tough unit...comparable to a GM Hydramatic 400 or Ford C6. Not exactly the lightest units, but all things being equal, pretty durable and dependable from the factory as well as when rebuilt with modifications.

The problems with the overdriven (A518/46RH/46RE/etc.) tranmsissions, initially, was a lubricating deficiency to the overdriven unit. In thhe early '90s A518/46/47RHs, the overdrive sections would, simply, burn up. Chrysler addressed this after several years of common failures with the O/D section in said units.

The common problem with the latter units ("RE" units) is a) overdriven engagement comes on too early and b) the resulting drop in line pressure would lead to other problems. Overdrive is fine and dandy when trying to decrease engine speed (rpm) when cruising down the highway, but when engine speed decreases, so does the speed of the transmission pump and, thus, line pressure can and will decrease when the trans pump is not seeing enough rpm to build maximum pressure. In the case of V10 and Cummins powered trucks, with factory units, said engines have sufficient torque to drive through/overcome the clutch engagement & low line pressure situations, resulting in clutch slippage and, thus, premature transmission failure. In the V8 and V6 powered trucks, while they generally don't have enough power to do such, the lack of power generally resulted in the driver having to depress the accelerator hard enough for the transmission to downshift and upshift in and out of overdrive.

Bottom line: overdrive (i.e. when it is applied or at what engine speed and engine rpm) is the biggest detriment/weakness in these units from the factory. Simply depressing the button on the dash (or rewiring the circuit, as others have done, to keep the trans OUT of overdrive unless you depress the button to engage overdrive) was the best way to make stock units live longer. For a truck that normally sees city driving (i.e. stop and go and no more than 50-60 mph with regularity), I would keep the trans OUT of o/d.

All of that said, there are numerous upgrades and updates you can perform to your unit if you're going to rebuild it. A shift kit (to firm up the shifts and to change the speed at which the transmission shifts to 4th gear/overdrive) can be installed, as many folks do. You can update the planetary gear sets to 48RE 6-pinion planets. There are different band lever application arms and struts, higher capacity clutch packs for the drums, you can rebuild the pump to deliver more line pressure and build higher pressure at lower speeds, etc., etc.

I would have to believe whoever built that 400 in your Chevelle would know of a reputable local builder who could rebuild the trans in your truck so that it would withstand what you're wanting to throw at it.

You're not a PITA.

My initial response was, perhaps obvious at this point, thinking you were complaining about a transmission that had 153k on the clock. Sure, we'd all like everything to last forever, but if I got 153k miles out of a unit without problem, I wouldn't complain. That said, that's not the case.

You can adjust the TV cable. There are a couple of write-ups on here (as well as on the web that can be Google searched) on how to adjust the TV cable housing "thing" at the throttle body. If you want to remove the cable from the throttle body, don't simply pry the plastic end off thinking it's a ball & socket-type setup like used on many carbed setups years ago. You have to pull the plastic cable fitting forward (towards the front of the truck) and then it slides off the throttle body fitting. I found that out the hard way many years ago. :roll:

With respect to adjusting the cable, it's a matter of trial and error. I wouldn't go more than probably an eighth of an inch at a time. Adjust it, go drive around the block and see what you think...then adjust more or leave it alone, accordingly. The 46RE in my truck has ~160k on the clock and is the original unit, knock on wood. I adjusted the TV cable so that, for some people, the 1-2 shift is a little firmer than "normal," and 4th (o/d) want come into play until roughly 52-54 mph. That said, I've always kept it locked out of overdrive in city driving.

aps is the way to go if you can afford it


Work Description Quantity Price Extended


Transmission Rebuild 100% New Transmission 1 $1,960.00 $1,960.00
APS Ultra Premium High Performance Master Rebuild featuring Red Eagle Frictions, Kolene Steels, Torrington Roller Bearing kit, Premium seal & Gasket kit, bushing kit complete, New premium rear band, Both Brand New One-Way Heavy Duty roller sprags, Thrust washer kit Perfect for Street/Strip Action!

1 $356.00 $356.00




Options to Complete the Package
APS Reprogrammed Valve Body with TransGo Complete Shift Kit and APS Custom Tweaks ($495 Retail) 1 $273.00 $273.00

4WD Premium Over 2WD 1 $127.00 $127.00
APS Throttle Valve Kit (Increases Shift Points) 1 $115.00 $115.00
APS Precision Custom UHD Sintered Cast Band 1 $64.00 $64.00
New Version APS Aluminum Accumulator & Blocker Rod 1 $53.00 $53.00
5-Cluth Direct Upgrade 1 $55.00 $55.00
APS High-Ratio Band Actuation Arm 1 $37.00 $37.00
High Capacity Direct Drum 4 Clutch (Increases Torque Capacity by at least 33%) 1 $65.00 $65.00

High Capacity Direct Drum Release Springs (Fixes 2-3 Shift Timing Problems) 12 $2.50 $30.00

APS No Flip Rear Servo with Cushion Blocker (Fixes 1-2 pulldown on manual shift!) 1 $56.00 $56.00

Update Pressure Regulator Valve (No Buzz) 1 $22.00 $22.00
Transmission Core Trade In 1 ($150.00) ($150.00)
Correct Filter 1 $8.50 $8.50
Correct Neutral Safety Switch 1 $13.55 $13.55
5-Pinion Front Planetary Gear Set 1 $142.00 $142.00
5-Pinion Rear Planetary Gear Set 1 $147.00 $147.00
APS Custom Switch Valve 1 $32.00 $32.00
Brute Force 900+Lbs Overdrive Spring 1 $39.00 $39.00
No Leak Reusable Pan Gasket 1 $13.65 $13.65
Blueprinting All Clearances (Inc All Parts) 1 $95.00 $95.00
No Bend Band Apply Strut 1 $15.00 $15.00
Specific Rate Intermediate Spring 1 $16.00 $16.00


$3,584.70

TOTALS

Total Transmission with All Options 1 $3,584.70 $3,584.70



Add Shipping Estimated Included my 55% Discount 1 $185.00 $185.00

YOUR Total PRICE $3,769.70




Converter Section

Custom Heavy Duty High Stall Converter (Group Buy) 1 $385.00 $385.00
One Piece Custom Piston Upgrade (Manufacturing Cost!) 1 $55.00 $55.00


Add Shipping Estimated 1 $37.00 $37.00

YOUR Total PRICE $477.00


Grand Totals

Transmission 1 $3,584.70 $3,584.70
Converter 2400 Stall Speed BracketFighter 1 $440.00 $440.00

Subtotal $4,024.70



Total Combined Shipping 1 $222.00 $222.00
i think he is the best i beat the {expletive} out of mine and i cant break it