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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So far so good and thank [insert name here] for air tools. That oil pan has a million and a half bolts. Also, the Haynes manual is pretty good, but failed to tell me I needed to remove the inspection cover to the tranny since the oil pan lip is inside it. That means the starter needs to come off also... Who ever designed that mounting system is an a$$....

I had to stop for now since the nanny left early and I wont be able to start again until my daughter goes to bed. Got the pan down and oil pump off in about 1.5 hours. The seal should take an hour (big hands, small work space), then button the bottom end back up is another hour.

I will be doing a full write up on the rear main seal job, installing a new oil pump (hey while its apart, right?).

Then once my new timing chain comes in (all steel double roller) I will start that job, with a new waterpump (again, while its apart, right?) Hopefully it wont rain too hard so I can get that stuff done. This will get a writeup also.

Finally.... some more difficult tech articles coming.
 

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YippEE!!!!! I have been needing to do these also!
Also, I am getting my headers in this week from Jet Hot and hopefully installing my M-1 intake. I will just tear apart my whole engine when you get the tech articles in!!!!!

:drool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I finished the rear main seal already. What a bunch of work for a stupid peice of rubber.

Ended up with a cross threaded hole in the tranny housing for the upper start bolt. Came out kind of tough, but didn't want to go back in. Had to get my tap and dies out to recut the threads.

Getting the oil pan back in withthe gasket in place was a serious PITA. If you have access to an engine hoist, follow the Haynes manual and pull the motor mount through bolts and raise the engine 3-4". I had a heck of a time fishing the oil pan back in place without dropping the entire gasket down inside it, even with gasket adhesive. I kept hitting a crank journal or rod cap and knocking the gasket out of whack.

At least it is all back together and it idles without leaking and shows good oil pressure. Will drive it tomorrow on the fwy to check it for sure.

Ordered the timing chain from Hughes Engines and once it arrives, I will start that job.
 

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I know how it is, i just replaced the oil pump, the oil pan, and timing chain cover. That is a pain to get on.
 

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Jason, a tip for those tricky gaskets that try to slide off: use thread to tie them through a couple of the bolt holes. It won't affect the seal and it usually deteriorates after a few months. :bigthumb:

Also, packing the pump with vasaline works well for priming instead of having to pour oil in. That's kinda messy. Was the pump a factory replacement or a high volume?

How much oil did you get on the digital camera?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
On 2002-11-07 13:19, _ZAB_ wrote:
Jason, a tip for those tricky gaskets that try to slide off: use thread to tie them through a couple of the bolt holes. It won't affect the seal and it usually deteriorates after a few months. :bigthumb:

Unfortunately, the oil pan gasket has the front and rear "dips" that have no way to keep in place. The sides can use thread, but the front and rear were giving me the problems.
Also, packing the pump with vasaline works well for priming instead of having to pour oil in. That's kinda messy. Was the pump a factory replacement or a high volume?

It is a stock replacement. I wasnot having oil pressure/flow issues (that I noticed) and teh motor is basically stock, so no real need for a high volume one.
How much oil did you get on the digital camera?

None, I kept it well away from the messy stuff...
 

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The write up is done on the rear main seal/oil pump.


I know this is a very old post but is that write up still available somewhere? The link doesn't appear to work anymore.
 
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