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Discussion Starter #1
my little biznatch is in the garage right now getting fitted up with the 6" skyjacker lift and 35" bfg's. got the front end pretty far along. all the old stuff is off except the brake lines and the new springs are on. got to the point that jack stands are useless, so we wrapped a chain around the deer killer on the front and lifted the whole front end with a cherry picker. works great, but not the safest. had to do some quick measuring to see if the thing would exit the garage with the lift and tires, gonna be close.
here's the questions so far: we had to pull off the front driveshaft and swaybar to perch the new springs, are we going to need to get an extension for the shaft or blocks for the swaybar to get them back to proper position? and what should we do for an axle vent tube?
i'll keep the updates coming.
thanks!



_________________
1975 K20 Suburban 402/400
Dana 44 with Warn Hubs/Corp 14 soon to be equipped with Detroit
6" Skyjacker 3/4 Ton Softride and 35" BFG Mud Terrains
 

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I have a swaybar on my truck. The guy that lifted my truck put on a drop swaybar bracket kit. Cost me $100 including labor. They do make them. People tell me I dont need the swaybar but since it just sits in the driveway till summer I will leave it on and figure out if I need it later....
 

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The skyjacker lift should come with a pair of drop brackets for the bar, if it doesnt, then unbolt the swaybar from the frame, flip it upside down, roll the 2 bushings over 180 degrees and bolt it back up, the offset in the bar should be just about enough. That only works on 1997 and newer I believe.
 

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If you can't get it out of the garage, let the air out of the tires....
 

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Swaybars, we don't need no stinkin' swaybars!!!

Seriously, try running the truck without it first. Most likely the new springs and shocks will be stiff enough to limit sway, and plus, it's lifted fullsize, not a sports car.

I know drop brackets are available, and Offroad Unlimited makes a cool swaybar disconnect system for your truck that also raises the mount at the axle 2" or so. That will help too.

How are your springs? I know when I lifted my 73 K10, the new springs were a little too long, and they bottomed out on the frame when I flexed. The solution was to install longer shackles to get the springs away from the frame. Did you have to do this on yours?

BTW, I used to have a 73 K10 shortbed. D44 front, 12 bolt rear, 3.73's, .030 over 350, TH350, and NP205. 4" Tuff Country lift, Rancho RS5000'S, and 35x12.50 Mud Kings. Iddin't corrct the swaybar, because it didn't seem too far aff at 4". It most likely was limiting my flex, but I mainly used the truck for mudding. I didn't start getting into flex untill I got my Jeep.

Good luck with the truck, it sounds awesome.
 

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When I did my truck ('93) the swaybar simply turned over and mounted on the new lift kit brackets. As far as not having it, one of my sway bar connects broke, and I am looking for quick disconnects, 'cause I don't want to drive it without a swaybar (it sometimes gets interesting on corners).
Just my $.02 worth.
 

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leave the swaybar in its stock location and add the required lift they would hook to the u-bolt plates.

a little fabbing here will go along way.

make this area(approx4-6 inch) your sway bar disconnect area.

than all you will have to do would be to fab something to hold the bar up to the frame whem your flexing through the suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i am going to get some aluminum stock from a local metal yard and just make some blocks for it. other than the front shaft not being long enough now, she's done.

ya'll catch that? SHE'S DONE!!!!!!!!!

i love my locker. i really do. the truck is doing the dolphin dance with the new springs, though.

4wheelparts has been a pain in the tailpipe throughout. sent half my shocks to illinois and made me wait an extra week for them. whined about having to match rough country's price on the lift. didn't have any answers in the tech dept when they did bother to answer the phone. still can't explain why the numbers on my rear springs are the ones for the 8" lift, and not the 6" that i ordered. that was at least verified by skyjacker. sits kinda c**ky with the rear an extra 1.5" up. i found the only way to get a real response was to call the sales number and ask to speak to a manager. that alone didn't get the job done. i always verified who i was talking to and mentioned the name of the last loser up there that didn't know his tail from dirt. worked my way up to a real manager and actually recieved good service from then on, all except for the tech guys.

all this and i still haven't got rid of that heavy metal noise when i shift into gear or release the throttle quick.


and my bestfriend painted my diff cover chrome yellow. i hear an can o' whoop ass being shook up...
 

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Take the diff cover off and wear his as$ out with it, a yellow diff cover screams HOMO. Why did he do that?
 

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at least he didnt paint your driveshaft like a barber pole. ive seen that on lifted trucks before, man is that GAY.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i'm gonna leave the diff cover yellow and get one of those lazer cut stickers that says 'if you can read this...' and put it on there upside down. he's still up for a beating, though. maybe i should just tag his jeep.
 
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