Gears would be a good idea, other than that, you dont need a hole lot of extras for 4" of lift.
puttin on a lift on 2002 tj
oke: ok i need to know if i need to do anything else i already have a 3in. body lift and i'm thinking about a rough country 4in suspension lift, and 36's but i need to know if i will need anything else? Like Slip yoke eliminatorkit and anything else i will need besides the basic lift? Thanks for any help you can offer.1 - 20 of 20 Posts
3" is pushing it without an SYE if you wheel. I'm a$$uming you're going to put the 4" in addition to the body lift? At ~7", yes, you will need an SYE kit. Of course, you can hack 'n' tap it for about 1/2 the price, so that's not a big deal.
If it's not a trail rig, regearing is going to be a must. You'll tear up every bit of your drivetrain going to/from anywhere eventually on 36"s and stock. You can do it, but you're not gonna be a speed demon and stuff is going to fail.
Rawr,
--Hardy:
If it's not a trail rig, regearing is going to be a must. You'll tear up every bit of your drivetrain going to/from anywhere eventually on 36"s and stock. You can do it, but you're not gonna be a speed demon and stuff is going to fail.
Rawr,
--Hardy
:
On 2005-12-01 23:52, johnnybuttz wrote:
Take out a loan to pay for your axles when they break, your clutch when it's toast (assuming it's a standard), your tranny when it's stripped, your t-case when the yoke breaks and your 2.5 when it's blown.
Either that or upgrade now, and save yourself time and money by putting gears in.
You should be shot.
T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is. And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7". NOT T-case drop time.
Of course, NEVER is t-case drop the right answer.
If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place.
--Hardy
:On 2005-12-14 12:35, TrojanYJ wrote:
You should be shot.
T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is. And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7". NOT T-case drop time.
Of course, NEVER is t-case drop the right answer.
If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place.
--Hardy
:roll: ya 4 inches on top of a body lift.my frieds jeep is lifted 5 inches suspension.and is wheeled every weekend.and o my god he has a tcase drop.and i should be shot.FUCK YOU.but listen to them cause they are obviously pros,and im not from texas so i dont know {expletive}. :fu:
You cut down on clearance, you still have the crap for a slip yoke, you put strain on your drive line, it's just not a good idea.
I'm not saying it CAN'T be done, I'm saying it SHOULDN'T be done. Yes, you can wheel like that. You can also put 8" of blocks on all four corners, have string cheese for axel shafts and wheel like that. It doesn't make it a good idea.
Get your panties out of a twist and quit crying. It's embarassing. Argue how it's better besides the trade off for clearance/strength/stability over $200 or don't bother.
Now now children,
--Hardy:
I'm not saying it CAN'T be done, I'm saying it SHOULDN'T be done. Yes, you can wheel like that. You can also put 8" of blocks on all four corners, have string cheese for axel shafts and wheel like that. It doesn't make it a good idea.
Get your panties out of a twist and quit crying. It's embarassing. Argue how it's better besides the trade off for clearance/strength/stability over $200 or don't bother.
Now now children,
--Hardy
:On 2005-12-14 13:59, TrojanYJ wrote:
You cut down on clearance, you still have the crap for a slip yoke, you put strain on your drive line, it's just not a good idea.
I'm not saying it CAN'T be done, I'm saying it SHOULDN'T be done. Yes, you can wheel like that. You can also put 8" of blocks on all four corners, have string cheese for axel shafts and wheel like that. It doesn't make it a good idea.
Get your panties out of a twist and quit crying. It's embarassing. Argue how it's better besides the trade off for clearance/strength/stability over $200 or don't bother.
Now now children,
--Hardy
none of that stuff bothers me about the lift.its one opion over another.the thing that bothers me is the fact that you said i should be shot.that i have a big problem with {expletive}stain.
On 2005-12-14 12:35, TrojanYJ wrote:
You should be shot.
T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is. And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7". NOT T-case drop time.
Of course, NEVER is t-case drop the right answer.
If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place.
--Hardy
By what you just posted here I think its obvious who the moron is.
I dont think you know what you are talking about.
"T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is."
So since I didnt have the extra $500-$600 for the SYE and Dshaft I'm a moron? SHOULD I BE SHOT ALSO?
"And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7".
Yes 4+3=7 but it is still only a 4" suspension.
The BL is not a determining factor on the D-shaft angle.
"If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place."
$200???? I take it your mommy and daddy paid for it or you stole it.
YOUR AN IDIOT
There is no doubt that a SYE is a better choice the question is "Is it a necessity for 4" of lift?".
On 2005-12-01 23:52, johnnybuttz wrote:
You could get away with out the SYE BUT
3" BL and a transfercase drop is a bad combo.
The SYE is the better choice regardless
36's are going to kill your D35 eventually
Regearing is a must for 36's
Yes, if you pay more than $500 for an SYE kit. I paid $420 to my door and mine had a brand new, fully splined tail shaft, housing AND Tom Woods CV drive-shaft as well as 2-day shipping.
If you hack-n-tap it (~$100) and get a new-to-you CV shaft (call it another $150 for safety's sake) You're now at $250. Call it an even $300. In my opinion, it's WELL worth $300 to not watch that slip yoke drop out of my t-case and completely disable my rig on the trail. Or twist off the end of my tail shaft. Or any number of other problems.
My point is, the trade off for stability and robustness of the SYE over the t-case drop isn't even a question. There's a right way and a wrong way to do things and t-case drop is wrong enough in my eyes to not even be a reasonable option for someone who wants to crawl and not have everything fail.
Beyond that, yea, I got over zealous and pretended like the body lift meant something. I can't remember if I actually had something in mind at the time it would affect, but if I did, I can't think of it now. I dropped that argument right away. It was stupid. Amen.
T-case drops are still for mall-crawlers and if you spent more than $3 on one, you're pissing money away.
This is the last I'm gonna post on this thread. The original guy hasn't even posted again on it.
--Hardy
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