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:poke: ok i need to know if i need to do anything else i already have a 3in. body lift and i'm thinking about a rough country 4in suspension lift, and 36's but i need to know if i will need anything else? Like Slip yoke eliminatorkit and anything else i will need besides the basic lift? Thanks for any help you can offer.
 

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Gears would be a good idea, other than that, you dont need a hole lot of extras for 4" of lift.
 

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i thought after 3 inches you basically need the sye on it,,??But im not that much the jeep guy juts around them alot and thought thats the general concensus,,other than that i dunno :sorry:
 

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3" is pushing it without an SYE if you wheel. I'm a$$uming you're going to put the 4" in addition to the body lift? At ~7", yes, you will need an SYE kit. Of course, you can hack 'n' tap it for about 1/2 the price, so that's not a big deal.

If it's not a trail rig, regearing is going to be a must. You'll tear up every bit of your drivetrain going to/from anywhere eventually on 36"s and stock. You can do it, but you're not gonna be a speed demon and stuff is going to fail.

Rawr,

--Hardy :D:
 

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On 2005-12-01 23:52, johnnybuttz wrote:
:poke: ok i need to know if i need to do anything else Thanks for any help you can offer.

Take out a loan to pay for your axles when they break, your clutch when it's toast (assuming it's a standard), your tranny when it's stripped, your t-case when the yoke breaks and your 2.5 when it's blown.

Either that or upgrade now, and save yourself time and money by putting gears in.
 

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A SYE and CV driveshaft are a must. I would also regear. And, if you have a Dana 35C, dont bother regearing, you might as well throw it off a cliff with that size of tires. It'l snap axel shafts like crazy.
 

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Don't forget steering and brakes. 36s will be tougher to stop and steer.

Maybe budget for some alloys for that front 30, especially if you lock it. And yes, the SYE/CV should be done too.
 

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you do not need a sye for 4 icnhes of suspension lift.just use a t case drop.
 

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I would get a SYE with 4 inches of lift. I have 3.5 inches and i bent the output shaft in my t-case the 2nd or 3rd time i went wheelin
 

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On 2005-12-14 09:47, trap wrote:
you do not need a sye for 4 icnhes of suspension lift.just use a t case drop.

You should be shot.

T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is. And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7". NOT T-case drop time.

Of course, NEVER is t-case drop the right answer.

If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place.

--Hardy :D:
 

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On 2005-12-14 12:35, TrojanYJ wrote:


You should be shot.

T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is. And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7". NOT T-case drop time.

Of course, NEVER is t-case drop the right answer.

If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place.

--Hardy :D:

:roll: ya 4 inches on top of a body lift.my frieds jeep is lifted 5 inches suspension.and is wheeled every weekend.and o my god he has a tcase drop.and i should be shot.FUCK YOU.but listen to them cause they are obviously pros,and im not from texas so i dont know {expletive}. :fu:
 

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You cut down on clearance, you still have the crap for a slip yoke, you put strain on your drive line, it's just not a good idea.

I'm not saying it CAN'T be done, I'm saying it SHOULDN'T be done. Yes, you can wheel like that. You can also put 8" of blocks on all four corners, have string cheese for axel shafts and wheel like that. It doesn't make it a good idea.

Get your panties out of a twist and quit crying. It's embarassing. Argue how it's better besides the trade off for clearance/strength/stability over $200 or don't bother.

Now now children,

--Hardy :D:
 

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On 2005-12-14 13:59, TrojanYJ wrote:
You cut down on clearance, you still have the crap for a slip yoke, you put strain on your drive line, it's just not a good idea.

I'm not saying it CAN'T be done, I'm saying it SHOULDN'T be done. Yes, you can wheel like that. You can also put 8" of blocks on all four corners, have string cheese for axel shafts and wheel like that. It doesn't make it a good idea.

Get your panties out of a twist and quit crying. It's embarassing. Argue how it's better besides the trade off for clearance/strength/stability over $200 or don't bother.

Now now children,

--Hardy :D:

none of that stuff bothers me about the lift.its one opion over another.the thing that bothers me is the fact that you said i should be shot.that i have a big problem with {expletive}stain.
 

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On 2005-12-14 12:35, TrojanYJ wrote:


You should be shot.

T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is. And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7". NOT T-case drop time.

Of course, NEVER is t-case drop the right answer.

If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place.

--Hardy :D:

By what you just posted here I think its obvious who the moron is.

I dont think you know what you are talking about.



"T-case drops are for morons who ride around in the mall in their newly detailed Rubicon and have no idea what clearance is."

So since I didnt have the extra $500-$600 for the SYE and Dshaft I'm a moron? SHOULD I BE SHOT ALSO?

"And if you read his post, he's putting 4" ON TOP OF 3" equaling 7".

Yes 4+3=7 but it is still only a 4" suspension.
The BL is not a determining factor on the D-shaft angle.

"If you don't have the extra $200 to go SYE, you probly shouldn't be wheeling in the first place."

$200???? I take it your mommy and daddy paid for it or you stole it.

YOUR AN IDIOT

There is no doubt that a SYE is a better choice the question is "Is it a necessity for 4" of lift?".
 

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On 2005-12-01 23:52, johnnybuttz wrote:
:poke: ok i need to know if i need to do anything else i already have a 3in. body lift and i'm thinking about a rough country 4in suspension lift, and 36's but i need to know if i will need anything else? Like Slip yoke eliminatorkit and anything else i will need besides the basic lift? Thanks for any help you can offer.

You could get away with out the SYE BUT
3" BL and a transfercase drop is a bad combo.
The SYE is the better choice regardless
36's are going to kill your D35 eventually
Regearing is a must for 36's
 

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What I would do...

1.)Ditch the 3"BL and go with a JKS 1.25" BL.
2.)Go ahead and put the RC 4" susp. on. Drop the coin on an SYE (Not EXTREMELY necessary, but HIGHLY recommended over a TC drop).
3.)Run 35's instead of 36's. (What's the extra inch gonna get ya except to say "I'm running 36's". Should save a lil money too)
4.)Find a TJ D44 or 8.8 from a '96+ Ford Explorer.
5.)Gear the sh!t out of it, as deep as you can go b/c you'll still want more with the 4 cyl.

My 2 cents.
 

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:withstupid:

That sounds MUCH better than your current plans.

You are not ready for 36's but you CAN fit them and run with stock everything and 4+3. It will only be a matter of time before problems arise.

I'm also very fond of ditching the 3" BL on the Wrangler, about an 1" or the 1.25" suggested is all I would go.
 

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On 2005-12-14 20:01, XJ/YJSlade wrote:
So since I didnt have the extra $500-$600 for the SYE and Dshaft I'm a moron? SHOULD I BE SHOT ALSO?

Yes, if you pay more than $500 for an SYE kit. I paid $420 to my door and mine had a brand new, fully splined tail shaft, housing AND Tom Woods CV drive-shaft as well as 2-day shipping.

If you hack-n-tap it (~$100) and get a new-to-you CV shaft (call it another $150 for safety's sake) You're now at $250. Call it an even $300. In my opinion, it's WELL worth $300 to not watch that slip yoke drop out of my t-case and completely disable my rig on the trail. Or twist off the end of my tail shaft. Or any number of other problems.

My point is, the trade off for stability and robustness of the SYE over the t-case drop isn't even a question. There's a right way and a wrong way to do things and t-case drop is wrong enough in my eyes to not even be a reasonable option for someone who wants to crawl and not have everything fail.

Beyond that, yea, I got over zealous and pretended like the body lift meant something. I can't remember if I actually had something in mind at the time it would affect, but if I did, I can't think of it now. I dropped that argument right away. It was stupid. Amen.

T-case drops are still for mall-crawlers and if you spent more than $3 on one, you're pissing money away.

This is the last I'm gonna post on this thread. The original guy hasn't even posted again on it.

--Hardy :D:
 

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Actually, a SYE cannot be done that cheaply. Without shiping, most hack and tap jobs run $85 at the cheapest and the CV driveshaft is in the range of $270-300 at the cheapest.

Yes, I am the one who said to throw the Dana 35C off a cliff too, but I own one and I know it's weaknesses.

Also, even with a t-case drop at 4" of lift, there's gonna be a high likelihood of some very noticable driveline vibes with a stock shaft. Your pinion angle will have to be adjusted to suit the lift as well. Another thing to consider is that the slipshaft will be further back on the splines to accomodate the lift, which puts the u-joints at even more of an angle while increasing vibes and puttig more stress on a smaller, shorter, area of splines.

Anything over 3" on a Jeep gets expensive fast.

As far as body lifts go, if you do any hardcore stuff, expect the mounting locations on the body to get trashed from the body flexing on those long pucks.

If the lift is a short arm lift, the ride will be rough as hell too because of the angle of the arms at ride height.
 
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