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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i recently aquired a 79 f350 std cab longbed 4x4 and was wondering on how to basically build it into a decent mud/play truck nothing overkill though. It has no box but a wooden flat bed currently, it does have a spring loaded farm/ag bumper with the hitch coming out of rear bumper. it spent its life as a farm truck and has been sitting for 4 years because the brake lines rusted out so it needs some TLC along with some cab floor work and a rear leaf spring shackle.

basically i want to build this truck to suit the use as a farm truck and mud runner and i plan to bring it up to pipeline in WI probably more north than south end.

far as i know from research-

axles- dana 60 with 3.54 gears
Transmission- borg warner t-18 4 speed manual with granny low? or just 4 speed?
transfercase- Np 205 Divorced
motor-400ci 2bbl


Any tips or ideas would be appreciated since this is my first ford truck ever..
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
after looking into it more the transfer case is actually a married np205... is it even possible to do a shackle flip on this truck considiring it has blocks from the factory in the rear?
 

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i dont understand why you would not be able to do a shackle flip because of a block in the rear? the shackle flip it only a plate at the rear of the leaf spring that reverses your shackle to make the shackle point down instead of up. if that makes any sense at all.

if i were you i would change the gears in the axles depending on what size tires you are thinking about running.

and for the record. i know nothing about Fords. lol
 
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Nice truck to start to build off of. Want to build a mud truck, I'd cut the fenders, stuff the biggest Interco Bogger you can unter it, and build a healthy motor to be able to spin the tires in the deep suff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i was told that when doing shackle flip it moves the axle forward and the only way to fix it was to put lift blocks in? i could be wrong and most likely am

i plan to change gears in the axles but i am not sure what to change it to while i would only run 35s at the max since thats what i have laying around. later down the road i might throw some Ag treads that are wide 38s off of a field sprayer.

hopefully a ford owner can chime in on this... is the borg warner t18 a granny low? While the truck is a 79 ive found the transmission may have been replaced... older models had R over and up while newer models after 78 had R over and down. truck has R over and up currently.[/align]
 

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to fix the problem with the axle shifting forwar all you have to do is order a block that moves your axle 1 1/2 backwards. could be purchsed from JKW Offroad. it is 7/8'' thick. i put mine over my factory block.

looks like this. (exept i made a new plate at the top to center it on the centerbolt and for my u bolts.)



and for gears i think 4.10 should be the gears you go with for some 35's but if you want to go with the 38's 4.56 will do the trick. that is the route i went with my Gas truck.

not sure if your truck is diesel or not but i think there may be a difference for the gears with a gas and diesel truck. not 100% sure on that one since i have a gas truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jasonlmrx said:
to fix the problem with the axle shifting forwar all you have to do is order a block that moves your axle 1 1/2 backwards. could be purchsed from JKW Offroad. it is 7/8'' thick. i put mine over my factory block.

looks like this. (exept i made a new plate at the top to center it on the centerbolt and for my u bolts.)



and for gears i think 4.10 should be the gears you go with for some 35's but if you want to go with the 38's 4.56 will do the trick. that is the route i went with my Gas truck.

not sure if your truck is diesel or not but i think there may be a difference for the gears with a gas and diesel truck. not 100% sure on that one since i have a gas truck.
its a gasser and that block you have wouldn't shift or move while offroading would it?
 

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Naah the center bolt holds it in place the only thing i dont like about these blocks are the lenghts i think they should be made longer. thats all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jasonlmrx said:
Naah the center bolt holds it in place the only thing i dont like about these blocks are the lenghts i think they should be made longer. thats all.
forgive me if this is a :bad:

Is it possible to make my own blocks out of some cast iron or steel plates i have laying around? all i see is drilling holes offset
 

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chevyteeruk said:
forgive me if this is a :bad:

Is it possible to make my own blocks out of some cast iron or steel plates i have laying around? all i see is drilling holes offset
Jason, that zero-rate is not being used properly.

And chevyteeruk, Wouldn't recommend using the cast iron but if you've got 1" steel plate laying around that would absolutely work. Cut to size and drill the holes. The only other issue you may run into is correcting pinion angle after the shackle flip. Moving only the rear down will shift the differential up and usually causes pinion angle problems. You can fix this either by extending the hangers on the front of the leaf or machining your zero rate block at an angle.
 

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Why isnt it installed right? Lol its the only way i can see it bein installed on my application lol. ive had it like that for quite awhile lol you got me curious now lol
 

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Offset the leaf spring hole, not the perch hole. The way you have it is very unsafe....

Rick
 

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Jasonlmrx said:
Why isnt it installed right? Lol its the only way i can see it bein installed on my application lol. ive had it like that for quite awhile lol you got me curious now lol
RamSport59 said:
Offset the leaf spring hole, not the perch hole. The way you have it is very unsafe....

Rick
Ding ding.

Either flip that block or swap it with the other side of the leaf spring.

That block should cover the entire spring perch (axle side) and the adjustment would be made on the leaf spring side.

Like RamSport said, that's pretty dangerous.
 

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All fixed already lol. although i did use it for a long time like that lol but i swirched it
 
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