I love synthetic oils. THey last longer dissapate heat better, protect better, and are without a doudbt better. Problem, 3-5 dollars a quart! I use Valvoline 10-30 synthetic blend, it gives you most of the benefits of full syn. without the price. A nice compromise for a college kid on a budget, if I didn't have a problem dumping 20 bucks of brown crap down my motor I would use it. 5 quarts of oil or a 12 pack? Considering that a quart is 32 oz. and costs 4 dollars, and a 40 oz of miller high life is about 3 bucks, I refuse to pay more for oil than beer in the same quantity. But the oil quality is worth it, the sacrifice is not.
i'm a penzoil man tried and true. 10W-40 every 3,000 and my truck stays happy. much cheaper to buy a case of oil(at least in texas) for about 17 bucks. i let penzoil take care of changing my tranny and differential oil. i only changed diff oil once last year cause i was running a really heavy weight cause it gets hot in tejas and i moved to oklahoma and it was snowing and icing everything over.
I use a brand called ROYAL PURPLE..it awesome....they are just getting started here in Houston ...but they will get bigger. they only have one plant right now that is about 5 min away from here....its synthetic oil and it kicks A$$..im sure you will hear about it soon if u havent already.
20W50 in CA could be harmful... You don't want think oil when you start up because it won't flow as well. Stick with 10W30 or 5W30. 20W50 is only good for areas that get REALLY hot as the heat will allow the oil to thin out to the proper level.
I'll I know is expensive quarts of oil gets expensive for my truck considering it takes 16 quarts. If I buy $3 quarts thats like $48 without the filter. I drive over 25,000 miles a year to, so it has to be changed often.
Yea im ok Ive been runnin it ever since i had the truck and i have no problems with my engine. Plus i run my truck Hard and im not too religouse about the 3000 mile thing since i know oil wont start to degrade till about 6k.
Has anybody ever heard of those oils leaving a residue in the engine's
1) Oil doesn't break down ta 3k... the additives that protect the engine and give the oil its viscosity do. Thats why if you change the oil in a car at 3,000 miles it'll have some body left to it. If you change the oil in a car with 6,000 miles it'll come out like water. It lost all of its viscosity, yeah you still have addequate pressure but the oil isn't lubricating nearly as well. All oil pressure is is the amount of resistance created by the volume of oil the pump moves versus the amount of "leaks" or oil clearances the engine has in it. Thats why higher mileage engines will show a lower oil pressure because the oil clearances or "leaks" are greater.
2) 10W30 oil will only get to the 30 viscosity when its warmed up. It WILL NOT get to 50, 60, etc... 5W30 & 10W30 is plenty for every normal application. Areas like the north pole, alaska, and on the equator (literally) are the only real exceptions where a different weight oil will be needed.
It may seem like its doing fine, but think about it. If you try to pump oil thats "thinner" (10W30) thru a engine when you first start it up what will it do? It'll flow really easy (but still have enough strength to protect and engine). Then think about flowing a thicker oil (20W50) thru the same engine and it won't flow nearly as well. The oil pump can not work "harder" because its gear/shaft driven off the camshaft. All you're really doing when you start an engine with an oil its not designed for is increasing the initial "cold start" engine wear where you have metal to metal contact. Remember that Dodge, GM, Ford, etc... designed that engine to exact specifications, its designed for a certain octane fuel so that it runs right, a certain weight oil so that it'll flow correctly to best protect the engine, everything about that engine has a reason for being what it was when you got it, and straying from that could (not always, but could) lead to premature engine failure.
Now you may or may not believe me, and thats fine we're all entitled to our own opinions. I'm just speaking from what I've been taught my professional mechanics, books written by professional mechanics (smokey unick to name one), and from personal hands on experience.
stick with the oil you normally run. i broke in my race car on mobil 1 and stuck with it. no problems at all. my brother got ahold of the motor and started using cheap oil and now its getting finicky. same goes the other way. my wifes old truck, an isuzu rodeo, had 48k of penzoil usage on it when we got it. i switched it to mobil 1 and it showed lower oil pressure, developed a leak and had lifter noise within a week. switched back after about 2k and everything was back to normal.
i met a buyer for the division that includes lubricants and filters for advance auto parts when i managed one of their stores. this guy gave me two hours of his time and laid out the 411 on all of it. the better oils in his opinion were the texas and west coast area pulled oils, like havoline, valvoline, and castrol. he strongly disliked the quality in penz and quaker state. as for filters, go with the premium inline option from the manufacturer, like goodwrench or mopar performance parts or motorcraft racing. purolator filters are okay, and you'll do better without a filter than with a fram, they still don't offer an anti siphon to keep the line primed. the k&n filters are built very strong, but don't filter much better than off the shelf units. they are made to withstand higher pressure and hold together longer in the event of fire.
almost forgot... royal purple: oh yeah, baby... love it!
and if you want to run cheap oil, grab a havoline bottle and look at the little "pouring bottle" image embossed into the neck of the quart. its a registered trade mark and appears on lots of "house" oil. same stuff, just a market blanket. other companies are using a similar mark, so make sure they match exactly.
1975 K20 Suburban 402/400
Dana 44 with Warn Hubs/Corp 14 with Detroit
6" Skyjacker 3/4 Ton Softride and 35" BFG Mud Terrains
Wow the things that 'ol Dd sees these days heh heh heh!
Hey guys, hate to break it to ya, but oil really isnt rocket science. yup what it is is dead dinosaurs and ancient stuff which forms this amazing goo which we pump from the ground.
Now heres the fun part, 1st WE remove enuff of the Impurities so that this "black gold" can absorb the stuff in our motors What we have right now is pretty much what goes into our vehilcles (btw NASA oil is sterile)
Now heres the wierd stuff. WE then add different things in an attempt to stabilise or improve things. Pennzoil uses Parafins (sounds like wax you guessed it)as do others. synthetics use various polymers (plastics) and man made stabilisers. Vicosity can be increased this way as well.
So what does this mean? Simple. Oil that meets the manufactures recomendations and SAE specs should be used and changed when recommended. BTW the biggest difference between 99 cent oil and 5oo a quart oil is something called "marketing" I'm sure the hero race car drivers out there appreciate your sponsor money. P.S. My 190k Caddy,340k ram van, and 45k ram QC all use the cheapest oil, changed every 3 to 5 k, and have a little duralube put in every 5th change.
Orange fram filters are CrrrrrrAp, Man! Again tho most filters are priced by "marketing"( hint..Pennzoil makes great filters crummy oil)I use A/C filters on the cad, and fram tuff gards on everything else.
Have fun stormin the castle guys!
A forum community dedicated to off-road vehicle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about trail reports, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, drivetrain, and more!