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Has anybody heard of Nology spark plug wires? Supposedly they create a power spark similar to MSD or Jacobs, but without having to use a power pack. Just using a cleaner running spark plug wire. Anybody heard of this?
Nology wires
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I have heard of them before but I don't think anyone has ever proved that they help any better than a good set of plug wires.
When I installed my headers I took out the factory wires and installed a set from Taylor. Any good wires will show some improvment over stock. The improvment is nothing to get excited over though.
When I installed my headers I took out the factory wires and installed a set from Taylor. Any good wires will show some improvment over stock. The improvment is nothing to get excited over though.
Hey Bill
Could you snap a few pics of your Volant air system for me? I am looking at getting the Volant air filter system with the cold air induction and want to see it installed on a dodge ram. Christmas is coming and its hopefully going on my list.
Bob
Could you snap a few pics of your Volant air system for me? I am looking at getting the Volant air filter system with the cold air induction and want to see it installed on a dodge ram. Christmas is coming and its hopefully going on my list.
Bob
I have seen a demonstration of these wires where the same coil was used to send a spark thru a standard wire and a nology. it impressed the hell out of me. The different in spark intensity between the two wires were like comparing a 20 watt bulb to 1000 watt halogen.
I would have bought them too but they were something like $30 a wire.
Are they still that expensive.
I would have bought them too but they were something like $30 a wire.
Are they still that expensive.
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1,193 Posts
Actually, the price I was quoted was about $400 for the set for my V-8.
Ok, I'm skeptical about this. Granted, I haven't heard anything about nology wires, but I know a bit about electricity.
First, measuring the resistance of a spark-plug wire with a multimeter tells you it's resistance to DC current, and almost nothing about it's resistance to AC current. A wire that has very little DC resistance, may have enormous resistance at frequencies of just a 1000hz (engine at 2000rpm...).
The problem gets worse when using a capacitive discharge ignition (Jacobs, MSD, Crane, etc.), and when you're getting multiple sparks per cycle in the cylinder.
A spark is a really high-frequency deal, it's an impulse that lasts for a VERY short amount of time, and as such, is essentially just one bit of a high frequency signal.
The best way to measure a plug-wire would be to put a decently large voltage (12v or so) square-wave through a wire, and see how large it is on the other end. You may be surprised.
And it's also possible that while one-spark goes through nicely, a whole series of them (typical in an engine, no?) may go through better, or worse....
Also, I'm wary of any test between two products that's managed or paid for by one of the products. That product they are comparing with, you may have no idea as to the quality, or if they have perhaps let some corrosion build up on the contacts connecting to it, the plug may not be well seated, etc....
Sorry, but I'm really pessimistic about these things.
From what I've gathered, MSDs are good, with low EFI. Jacobs are good, also with low EFI. And Magenores are amazing, with even lower EFI.
So, if you get them, we want to hear about the results! That's what matters.
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First, measuring the resistance of a spark-plug wire with a multimeter tells you it's resistance to DC current, and almost nothing about it's resistance to AC current. A wire that has very little DC resistance, may have enormous resistance at frequencies of just a 1000hz (engine at 2000rpm...).
The problem gets worse when using a capacitive discharge ignition (Jacobs, MSD, Crane, etc.), and when you're getting multiple sparks per cycle in the cylinder.
A spark is a really high-frequency deal, it's an impulse that lasts for a VERY short amount of time, and as such, is essentially just one bit of a high frequency signal.
The best way to measure a plug-wire would be to put a decently large voltage (12v or so) square-wave through a wire, and see how large it is on the other end. You may be surprised.
And it's also possible that while one-spark goes through nicely, a whole series of them (typical in an engine, no?) may go through better, or worse....
Also, I'm wary of any test between two products that's managed or paid for by one of the products. That product they are comparing with, you may have no idea as to the quality, or if they have perhaps let some corrosion build up on the contacts connecting to it, the plug may not be well seated, etc....
Sorry, but I'm really pessimistic about these things.
From what I've gathered, MSDs are good, with low EFI. Jacobs are good, also with low EFI. And Magenores are amazing, with even lower EFI.
So, if you get them, we want to hear about the results! That's what matters.
<IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">
I dont know how fair the test was that I saw. All im saying is that the difference in spark was VERY dramatic. but the test setup was made by nology so there could have been a scam in there somewhere. I probably should have bought one wore and tried on in my vehicle to see if the results were similar but i wasnt willing to pay the $30 for one wire. now, theyre charging $40 a wire
About your comment about dc versus ac current. isnt an automotive ignition system a pulsed dc signal? the primary side of the coil (essentially a transformer) builds up a field and the spark arises on the secondary side when that field is broken. I figured that would be considered dc (pulsed dc but dc none the less)
About your comment about dc versus ac current. isnt an automotive ignition system a pulsed dc signal? the primary side of the coil (essentially a transformer) builds up a field and the spark arises on the secondary side when that field is broken. I figured that would be considered dc (pulsed dc but dc none the less)
If the voltage stays the same for more than a second, you can call it DC, but if you are getting any kind of change in less than a second, call it AC, or least just a signal.
Most people think of AC as a sine-wave kind that comes into the house. A signal that bounces (alternates) between 0 and 12v every half second would be an AC (Alternating Current) signal, or close enough. The idea is that it's a dynamic thing, not a steady thing.
A coil (transformer), won't pass DC current, only AC currents, or any kind of signal where things are changing rates quickly. So in an engine, you get a pulse to each cylinder every rev (because they fire cylinders in pairs, one on the compression, one on the exhaust stroke). So at 3000rpm, you've got something like 25,000 volts being turned on/off 50 times a second. Which is the same frequency used by household AC current in Europe (50Hz), we use 60Hz.
Now, 25000 volts is A LOT, and the wires don't respond instantly, so the signal kinda starts really square-like, but if you were to look at it, just one pulse, you'd see that it has soft edges, and looks kinda like a sine-wave, but with some corners.
It's kinda like pushing a swing. You push hard for a short period of time, and the result is longer and smoother. That's kinda the way the hard on/off edges from the distributor get turned into.
Also, with that kind of voltage, there is some arcing as the rotor passes under each point, and each arc shows up in the signal to help round things out more.
Most people think of AC as a sine-wave kind that comes into the house. A signal that bounces (alternates) between 0 and 12v every half second would be an AC (Alternating Current) signal, or close enough. The idea is that it's a dynamic thing, not a steady thing.
A coil (transformer), won't pass DC current, only AC currents, or any kind of signal where things are changing rates quickly. So in an engine, you get a pulse to each cylinder every rev (because they fire cylinders in pairs, one on the compression, one on the exhaust stroke). So at 3000rpm, you've got something like 25,000 volts being turned on/off 50 times a second. Which is the same frequency used by household AC current in Europe (50Hz), we use 60Hz.
Now, 25000 volts is A LOT, and the wires don't respond instantly, so the signal kinda starts really square-like, but if you were to look at it, just one pulse, you'd see that it has soft edges, and looks kinda like a sine-wave, but with some corners.
It's kinda like pushing a swing. You push hard for a short period of time, and the result is longer and smoother. That's kinda the way the hard on/off edges from the distributor get turned into.
Also, with that kind of voltage, there is some arcing as the rotor passes under each point, and each arc shows up in the signal to help round things out more.
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I've always said if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. If there was a magic wire that makes that much more power, everyone would have one.
I agree that every bit helps and this may be some improvement, but I think $400 can be spent wiser to get more bang for the buck somewhere else. Or start saving for that supercharger.
Oh yeah, Do they last forever, or do you have to change them every 4-5 years like normal wires?
I agree that every bit helps and this may be some improvement, but I think $400 can be spent wiser to get more bang for the buck somewhere else. Or start saving for that supercharger.
Oh yeah, Do they last forever, or do you have to change them every 4-5 years like normal wires?
G
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·Those wires are WAY expensive. Wouldnt waste the cash on them
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Hey, Lets not leave out turbos!!
: : :
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Damn, somebody actually dug up an old thread...a really, really old thread. :
Never picked up those Nology wires though...couldn't convince myself that $400 on spark plug wires was a good idea. :roll:
: Never picked up those Nology wires though...couldn't convince myself that $400 on spark plug wires was a good idea. :roll:
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