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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I'm rather pissed right now but I'm gonna try to explain calmly why its dying in hopes that someone will have any ideas I haven't come up with yet.

1979 W-150 with a '85 360 2 barrel holley. Electronic/Vacuum Distributor.

Problem:
1) Will not keep timing. I've set it to 12 degrees about 5 times now and within 15 minutes the timing has moved dramatically. The first time I checked it (when I started having major problems with it) it was at about 8 degrees RETARD... not the 12 advance its supposed to be at. What get's me is that it was perfectly fine for months, then all of a sudden it starts this s***.

What I've tried:
1) Removing the vacuum advance and plugging the vacuum line.

2) I've pulled the distributor out of the engine to check for bushing wear, none. Also checked for excessive wear on the magnetic pickup, none.

3) All plug wires are attached, and on the distributor cap in correct order.

Problem 2)
Partially caused by the timing... alot of black smoke coming out of the exhaust (which has led me to find EVERY single exhaust leak the truck has, a guess thats a good thing?). I set the idle mixture screws completely in (as far as they would go... which should kill the engine), but it still ran/runs. And today it started leaking fuel below the bowl onto the intake.

Thanks guys,

-Chris
 

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sounds like a double whammy. the carb 4 sure.i just replaced mine due to the same problem of fuel dumping in after turned off.
as to the timing,thats new to me,unless the timing chane is coming apart.but thats a guess.hope you figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My first guess was timing chain to. But I pulled the cap off the distributor and then turned the crankshaft. The rotor turns right with it, very little to no slop. And the guys at school/work don't think its the timing chain. They said it was worn bushings in the distributor, but I proved that wrong by removing it.

If the truck lasts till the weekend I'll buy a new distributor and a timing cover gasket (I have the rest of the gaskets and a new double roller chain already) and do those. MAYBE... lol If she keeps this s*** up I'll pull the wheels/lift off and junk the thing. A guy I met at McDonalds last week said he has an old PW (think it was a '78 or somethin close) that he bought for the rear axle only... he said he'd take $100 for the rest of it, but I gotta get it out of his driveway. I'm gonna try to get ahold of him and see how it drives. If its not 1/2 bad I'll either pull the rear outta my truck or get one from a boneyard and throw it under there. Might turn that into my truck because he said the body is cherry. I'll have to see it tho before I make a big decision like that.

-Chris

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1979 Dodge Powerwagon 150 with:
6" SkyJacker Suspension Lift Springs w/ 3" factory blocks, Custom Axle Vents & Steering Shaft/Knuckle Joint, 35X12.50X15 BFG AT/KO's on 15X8.5 American Racing 767, 360 w/ 2bbl & Crane PowerMax Cam & Valvetrain
 

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the nut stays tight that keeps the distributor from moving???...

timing chain is loose and skips or maybe broken tooth on the gear...

broken tooth on camshaft(highly unlikely)...

could be the distributor---get one from a junkyard slap it in and see what happens...chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The distributor hold down clamp/bolt is tight. The timing chain seems to be tight because when I hand jack the crank the rotor moves immediately. If the chain had any slack in it it wouldn't respond immediately. Yes I cranked both ways.

I think.... I may have a distributor from my 318 downstairs. Its the exact same thing so it'll go right in if I do. Gonna go check and see.

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well the truck avoided the heap pile one more time..

After exhausting all timing posibilities I started thinking it might be getting excessive amounts of gas which would cause the sorts of probelms I was having and the clouds of black smoke pouring from the exhaust. So I pulled the carb off and took it to AutoZone (I've rebuilt it once already and it needed to be replaced) and bought a new holley for it. Came home double checked all the screws to make sure they was tight, and bolted it up. Hooked everything up and fired it up.

Bingo, truck idles great. Got power again, still has a slight smoke to it when under full acceleration but i've only driven it about 2 miles so I'll wait till tommorow at school to adjust anything on it. Had to set the mixture screws and the idle but other than that left it as is.

When I went to park it tho I noticed a slight vibration from the clutch area when the pedal is not depressed (clutch engaged) in nuetral. But being that it was dark I didn't look to see. That'll be something I can look at in class tommorow (we're doing clutches and transmissions in the class I'm currently in).

Later all,

-Chris
 

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check your balencer i broke mine the other day so the timing looked way off. there is a rubber piece between the weight and the center of the balencer. if it breaks the weight will move while your running so your timing will read off. it's happened to both my engine and my brothers engine so it might be something to check.
 
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