Off Road Vehicles banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Master cly. for rear disk conversion? can you just use the stock one or would it be best to upgrade to somthing else....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
i put rear disk on my K5 and used the stock MC... i have no complaints... the drum portion of the MC puts out more pressure and seems to help w/ my 38's...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,312 Posts
i agree... i thought i was going to need a new mc too.. but used the stocker and she stops nice.... :bigthumb:

however i did notice that the caddy calipers dont stop as good as my d44 calipers i had in thee... wife wanted an e brake... weather it works or not she wanted it in there.... :wall:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,574 Posts
you can use the stock one. just be sure to pull the check valve out or else your going to have about 10 psi applied at all times to the rear brakes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,312 Posts
On 2005-12-09 06:23, okiebronco wrote:
you can use the stock one. just be sure to pull the check valve out or else your going to have about 10 psi applied at all times to the rear brakes

huh?
I didnt do that... how do you do that?
any pics?

always thought it seemed like my truck was draggin a bit... but thought that was normal for disc brakes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,574 Posts
i dont have any pics... ill see if i can find some on the net. basically where the brake line goes in the master cylinder for the rear brakes there is a valve in there. you stick a screw in there and turn it a little ( just enough so it bites on the chack valve) then pull it out. very easy to do
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,574 Posts
still not a pic but this was taken from tsm mfg web site.

Remove Residual Valve

The residual valve holds ten pounds on a drum brake system when the brakes release to keep the spring on the shoes from collapsing the wheel cylinders. Residual valves can be found in the end of the cylinder in ford fruit jar single master cylinders, where the brake lines screw into the master cylinder on some dual cylinders, one in the rear line only on front disc rear drum systems, or in the combination valve rear line only. You can remove the residual valve from the master cylinder where the brake line screws in with a sheet metal screw. Screw it in and then pull. It will come right out. Back to problem List
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,574 Posts
yup. all drum brake systems have this valve. that is why there is a difference between a master cylinder for drum disk/drum and disk/disk when buying new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,541 Posts
might want to look into getting a proprtioning valve for the rear lines so you can control how much pressure goes to the back cuz you do want less being applied to the rear.

[img=49x23]http://5716.8k.com/ps/crow.gif[/img]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,574 Posts
On 2005-12-09 10:19, crow5716 wrote:
might want to look into getting a proprtioning valve for the rear lines so you can control how much pressure goes to the back cuz you do want less being applied to the rear.

http://5716.8k.com/ps/crow.gif
even with a adjustable proportioning valve you are still going to have about 10 psi at all times being applied to the rear brakes. which will cause additional drag.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
i wanna thank you all for your input and info!! make life alot better with it, again thanks. i think this spot on the web is one of the best i found. :D:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
On 2005-12-09 10:21, okiebronco wrote:
even with a adjustable proportioning valve you are still going to have about 10 psi at all times being applied to the rear brakes. which will cause additional drag.

This may not apply to trucks as much but on my firebird when I swapped to rear disks I picked up an adjustable prop valve from summit, and gutted the stock prop valve... Later on I just got rid of the stock prop valve and ran 100% pressure in the front and reduced in the rear. Been a daily driver for quite awhile and works awesome.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top