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Discussion Starter #1
im no expert but im leaning toward the no side...
 

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YOU WILL BLOW CHIT UP

Within the past 2wks I have seen 3 halfshafts blow, 2 front diffs, and a handfull of hubs.

The trucks were running 33x12.5 buckshots, 35x12.5 BFG mudterrains, 35x14.5 boggers, and 33x10.5 BFG all-terrains

*all of these trucks are open f+r*
 

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if you want something in the front limited slip is the furthes I would go on IFS.


You should leave it open and worry about your rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
:withstupid:
 

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the worst part about doing an sas is cutting all the crap out.. and solid axles are soo much easier to work on, you can do an axle swap on trail, cant say that about a cv shaft.
 

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On 2005-12-07 17:50, RolledToy wrote:
YOU WILL BLOW CHIT UP

Within the past 2wks I have seen 3 halfshafts blow, 2 front diffs, and a handfull of hubs.

The trucks were running 33x12.5 buckshots, 35x12.5 BFG mudterrains, 35x14.5 boggers, and 33x10.5 BFG all-terrains

*all of these trucks are open f+r*

I went through 2 front IFS diffs (sheared ring gears) in my old 94 toyota on 35's. I wouldn't recommend a locker in the front at all. Cheezy a$$ 7.5 diff. SAS it man :silly:
 

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On 2005-12-07 20:46, GonOVR wrote:
the worst part about doing an sas is cutting all the crap out.. and solid axles are soo much easier to work on, you can do an axle swap on trail, cant say that about a cv shaft.

BS, i can pull a CV shaft without even jacking up the truck.

Either way, I have seen a number of CV shafts, and inner shafts snap with the truck idling over a rock.

If you get one, just get a lockrite.

then look for someone doing a SAS, and buy their old IFS off of them for spare parts.

I personally recommend getting a rear locker, dual cases, and have fun.
 

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Yes..with slight modification to your IFS you can be able to remove your CV-half shafts on the trail without even jacking the truck up. If i can find the link to the site as to the simple grinding mod i will post it up
 

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On 2005-12-08 12:14, slOw864runner wrote:
alright thanks, I'm already planning on locking up the rear, and i guess i may just go with a limited slip up front.

In my personal experience, a limited slip doesnt make enough of a difference to justify the cost. The IFS has very little wheel travel, thus the tires lift often. When tire tire lifts, the wheel that is off the ground will still spin, just as if it were open.

The only time I see when a front limited slip would be helpful, is in things like sand, where you need wheel speed. But still, when you get stuck, the front LS wont help you. Your tires with the least amount of traction will still spin.

I'd leave it open, and spend the money on dual cases.
 

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So how many of you guys have actually run a lockright in a 7.5" IFS Toyota diff?

I have. The only thing I'd caution you on if you decide to do it is: get a NEW carrier when you install the lockright. The reason is b/c even with the thrust washers installed, there is already a wear pattern in the factory carrier. When you replace the spiders with the lockright, it can wallow the carrier. Lockright claims this only happens in 10% of cases, but after selling them for a few years, I'd say it's closer to 50% eventually have this happen.


I gave my IFS 7.5" center to a friend with the lockright and 4.88 Precision gears and he's still running it to this day with no problems. That was almost 5 years ago.

Sean
 

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It looks as if you are set on gettin a locker now. Good luck with it and happy trails :bigthumb:



....this isn't sarcastic
 

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You should be able to pick one up from any lockright dealer. You could also looking into Aussie lockers....not sure if they have one for the 7.5" IFS diff or not.

They generally run from $200-300 max.

The other part you'll need is a new carrier (aka a "case"). Lockright will say you do NOT need one, but my opinion is that a new one has no wear pattern and is therefore less susceptible to being wallowed out. They're generally around $100 and you should be able to get it from any place that also sells the locker.....might try West Coast Differentials (X-114 is Jay) or many of the Pirate board vendors like PORC, etc.

The other thing to check would be for a "hardened" cross pin. Run a file across the one that's in your carrier now. If it just skates across without digging in, you shouldn't need to replace it. I don't think Toyota uses any cross pins that are not hardened, but you should always check when installing a lockright.

Look on lockright's website (and Aussie locker's) for applications and part numbers. If Aussie does make one for the 7.5", I'd probably go that route over the lockright.


Good luck with it.

Sean
 

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Slow86--- With 31" and as long as you don't keep dumping the clutch at 5000 rpm, I would think you'd be safe. I actually feel the 7.5" front case/carrier combo is damn strong for what it is. The carrier is about twice as strong as the thinner axles. As usual, all bets are off with poor installs. Go for the lockrite. :cool:: ZUK

I just checked and Aussie has them for 7.5" 86~95 trucks/Runners like yours.....so I recommend, same as Sean, the Aussie over the EZ/Lockrite stuff.
 

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....then that would do it. A locker in the front is harder on tie-rod ends and the idle arm.....just don't force the wheel and I think everything will live.
 

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If you didn't see my EDIT above, I say go for the Aussie :):
 
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