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Discussion Starter #1
As most of you know there is a small dowel pin inside the timing gear case on 12v cummins diesel engines.This pin was used in production to locate the case on the engine block.Cummins unfortunately left the pin in without securing it.If this pin falls out it could result in major engine damage and be very costly to repair.This is something you should do to your CTD before anything else.

TST makes a kit that includes a special washer or tab and a longer bolt.There is another method of drilling / tapping the case with a jig and installing a set screw into the pin to hold it in place.This method requires a special jig and an air regulator/fitting to pressurize the engine case and blow any chips or shavings that may fall into the engine during the process.

TST's KDP tab kit is relatively simple to install and can be done by just about anyone with general mechanical skills.It took us about half a day because we were a bit unprepared and had to make some part runs.It can be done in a few hours if fully prepared.


The TST KDP kit comes with the following :

- Special washer / Tab

- Longer bolt

- New crankshaft seal

- Crankshaft seal jig/guide

- Permatex ultra grey

- Sample size of thread lock

- installation instructions




Tools you will need to perform the KDP tab install :

- 3/8" & 1/2" breaker bars

- 3/8 " ft lbs & inch pound torque wrenches

- 8mm - 16mm end wrenches (shorties help)

- 8mm - 19mm sockets (19 should be 1/2" drive)

- 2 - 1/2" end wrenches

- Various extensions & flex joints (wobbly's)

- flathead & phillips screwdrivers

- Pliers

- Strap wrench or large crescent wrench

- feeler gauge set

- Seal drivers (optional)

- pry bar

- Hammers , 1 preferrably brass

- Round punch (small to med.)

- 2' x 2' piece of cardboard

- work light

- Drain pan

- plenty of shop rags

- stool or something to stand on

- Buddy to help (especially those with auto trans)




Materials you will need :

- Permatex ultra grey (comes in kit but nice to have a bit extra on hand if needed)

- Red threadlocking compound (sample size pouch that came in my kit was dried up when we opened it)

- New timing case gasket P/N 3918673

- Gallon of anti freeze

- washer fluid

- aerosol degreaser

- black paint (optional)



Some things you may want to check / replace while the front side of the engine is bare :

- Water pump / pulley (check weep hole for signs of leaks)

- Belt & tensioner

- Fan clutch

- intercooler boots

- Radiator hoses

- Trans cooler lines (auto)

- Power steering lines

- adjust oversteer in steering box


ISBDiesel gave a lot of input on this process and we compiled this list during the procedure.
If we left anything out or if anyone has any suggestions feel free to add to the thread and I'll edit the original list and give contributing credit.

this is the Killer Dowel Pin exposed.(red arrow)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Park the truck on a flat , stable area.Set parking brake turn off ignition & pop the hood.Standard trans trucks put in gear.Let truck cool for an hour or 2.

Step 1

- Disconnect both batterys.

- Place drain pan under one end of radiator hose and remove that end of the hose first and let drain.(NOT WHEN ENGINE IS HOT)

- Disconnect hose and sensors and remove washer fluid res. by pressing out on the 2 dimples half way down on back side of res. and popping the upper tabs out of the slots in radiator shroud.

- remove hose from coolant res. and pry GENTLY on the upper tab that sticks through slot in shroud and pull up on res.
(see picture below)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Step 2


- Remove the 2 bolts holding the oil filler tube to the engine.Turn filler tube counter clockwise to remove from filler neck elbow.(large crescent or strap wrench can be used if its too tight to be turned by hand)

- With the use of a pry bar or long extension / breaker bar turn the filler neck elbow counter-clockwise and remove.(see pic)


- Remove belt by inserting 3/8" breaker bar into
square hole on tensioner and pulling towards fender.
(watch your fingers)

- Remove the 4 bolts holding the radiator shroud to the radiator.

- Slide the 2'x 2'(trim to fit) piece of cardboard behind the shroud to protect the radiator fins.


- Remove the 4 bolts holding the fan mount to engine using a 10mm end wrench (this is where the shortys come in handy.The bolt(s) behind the pully can be a real pain and the use of a thin wrench makes it a lot easier.

- Remove the fan , base and shroud at the same time , this is where a second person can be a big help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Step 3


- use feeler gauge and read the gap between the engine speed sensor and harmonic balancer and record
for reinstallation if it reads between .049 - .051 if not , set properly during reinstallation.

- Remove the 2 nuts holding the sensor and wire retention tab and hang sensor out of the way.

- Remove the sensor spacer block and take note of its position for reinstallation. (see pic)

- AUTO TRANS ONLY - Remove 3 bolts on inspection cover at bottom of bell housing and have a buddy use a pry bar to hold the flexplate teeth preventing the engine from rotating.

- Standard trans trucks , put trans in gear.


- Using a 1/2" breaker bar and a 15mm socket
remove the 4 15mm bolts holding the harmonic
balance to the crankshaft & remove.These are very tight and might take some elbow grease.
 

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nice writeup, i stickied this to save it for people who want to easily find it later :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Lee :bigthumb:


Step 4


- Remove the bolts holding the case cover to the timing gear case.The 2 long studs that hold on the engine speed sensor will need to be removed with an end wrench.

- with a bit of jiggling the case should slide off the end of the crankshaft and be removed.

- Remove any gasket material left on the case itself if any to prevent it from falling into the case.

- Take the cover clean and degrease it the best you can.Using gasket remover and a scraper clean the gasket mating surface.

- Using a flathead screwdriver lay cover on a bench and tap out the seal by tapping a little bit at a time around the circumferance of the seal.DO NOT REUSE THE SEAL.DISCARD.

- Now is a good time to paint the cover if you choose to.Remember to use a hi temp engine paint or it will just flake off.

- Clean the seal seating area with a light abrasive and some degreaser.

- After drying the seal seating area insert the seal seating jig / guide (included in the TST kit) on the front side of the cover by tapping it GENTLY with a hammer.This jig / guide prevents you from driving the seal too far.Make sure the seal jig guide is flat all the way around the edge of the hole.

(see pic)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Step 5


- With the cover front side down make sure the seal depth guide isnt knocked out of position.Put a good size bead of red threadlocking compound around the edge of the seal.Be careful to not allow any of the threadlock compound to contact the 2 rubber lips on the seal at any time or it will harden the seal and cause premature seal failure. (see pic)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Step 6


- With the cover still front side down insert the seal.There are a few different ways to drive in the seal.You can use a seal driver , a hammer and flathead screwdriver or the old seal.

- If you choose to use the screwdriver method be very careful not to puncture the rubber parts of the seal.

- Using the old seal to drive in the new one is simple , just make sure you clean it well.Also you dont want to drive the old seal too far in or it will be nearly impossible to remove without dislodging the new seal.I ground off a bit of material on the edge of the old seal to prevent this from happening.With the old seals flat surface down against the new seal , tap gently around the circumference to drive it in.
(See pic)

- Making sure the seal is seated flat gently tap it in a bit at a time going aroud the circumfrence of the seal so it doesnt get driven in too far on one side.

- Make sure the seal depth guide isnt being driven out and is backed up by a solid surface.

- Once the bottom of the seal contacts the depth guide evenly all the way around , youre done.

- Remove the depth guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
STEP 7

- Allowing the threadlock compound some time to set up , this is a good time to actually KILL the KDP.

- Back at the truck , Locate the KDP at the left side of the case , just below and to the left side of the large timing gear at the top. (See pic)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Step 7.5 :D:



- After locating the pin , check to see if it protruding from the case surface.(see pic in first post)If it is not flush(flat) against the surface use a hammer and punch and drive it in so that it sits flush with the case surface.Be careful not to miss as the case is aluminum and is easily marred.

(we actually used a short bolt about 2.5" long it allowed more room to swing the hammer as Zachs(ISB) pin was a bit stubborn)

- Once the pin is flush remove the bolt just to the right of the pin.This bolt is not reused.
(side note - this bolt is a nice replaement for the oil dipstick tube clamp on the intake manifold if yours happens to be gone)


- Place the KDP tab/washer on the longer bolt provided in the TST kit and apply some red threadlock compound to the threads.

- Install the bolt with the tab covering the end of the KDP and torque it to 18 ft. lbs

- This is what it will look like when its properly installed. (see pic)

WARNING : Do not use the tab and bolt to try and drive the pin in.This could cause damage to the threads or case.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Step 8


- This is a good time to check that all the bolts inside the case are tight.Go around and torque them all to 18 ft lbs.There are 2 hiding behind the lower
timing gear and you must rotate the engine to expose the bolt heads(see red arrows in pic down a few posts).This is also where the help of a buddy comes in handy.As one turns the engine over at the flexplate/flywheel the other watches for the bolts to appear through the hole in the timing gear.The engine must be rotated again to get to the second bolt head.

- Clean the gasket surface of the gear case with a good degreaser or mineral spirit and allow to dry.

- Make sure the gasket surface on the cover is cleaned in the same manner.

- Apply a small bead of Permatex ultra grey all the way around the gasket surface of the cover and flatten the bead with your finger covering the outside areas of the bolt holes as well.Allow the permatex to skin for a few minutes(5-8) before applying the gasket.

- Make sure the new gasket is clean and apply it to the covers mating surface.There is no need to apply any permatex to the engine side of the gasket.

- Place the cover onto the gear case and install the bolts that hold the cover onto the case.Torque them to 18 ft lbs in a staggered manner.(Consult service manual for exact pattern if youre that picky)
The 2 studs that hold the engine speed sensor are too long for a socket and we just guesstimated the torque.A crows foot can be used on the torque wrench but will not really give an accurate read.

- Replace harmonic balancer with pulley towards the engine.Torque the 4 15mm bolts to 92 ft lbs. (Auto trucks have your buddy hold the flexplate again)

- Install the standoff block that spaces the engine speed sensor over the 2 long studs on the cover.

- Place the engine speed sensor & the wire retention tab on the studs and install the nuts but do not tighten.

- Using a feeler gauge set the clearance of the engine speed sensor at .049 - .051 and torque the nuts to 18 ft lbs with the feeler gauge between the sensor and harmonic balancer. (see pic)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Step 9 (optional)

- Since getting the fan & shroud out in 1 procedure was such a pain ISB decided to notch the shroud for easier removal / installation.(see pic)

- We notched 1" of material out of the bottom of the shroud about half way around with a disc grinder.(Wear eye protection!)Be sure not to remove too much material as you dont want to jeopardize the rigidity of the shroud itself.

- Also do not just hack the bottom half of the shroud off completely as this will reduce airflow and proper cooling of the radiator.I have seen this done and have actually seen people ditch the shroud altogether.Not a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Step 10


- Reinstall fan and shroud.Torque fan mounting bolts at 18 ft lbs.Torque fan shroud mounting bolts to 50 inch lbs.

- install belt using a 3/8" breaker bar.Again , watch your fingers.

- Install oil filler elbow into hole on timing cover.

- install oil filler neck onto elbow and attach bolt to engine torque to 32 ft lbs.Torque oil filler tube clamp to 18 ft lbs.

- Install washer fluid res. This is kind of a pain and it can be useful to have someone on the bottom side to align the lower mounting tab.Reattach hose & sensor (SLT models)

- Install Coolant res and again it can be useful to have someone on the bottom side to align the lower mounting tab.Re attach hose.Fill to "full" mark with coolant.

- Install radiator hose(s).(May want to replace factory clamps as they can weaken and lose tension with age/use)

- Top off radiator with coolant and replace cap.

- AUTO TRANS TRUCKS - Replace inspection cover at flexplate using threadlock compound.

- Hook batterys up






Congratulations , you may now sleep at night knowing some .03c piece of steel cant cost you thousands in damage...Your KDP has been killed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is a list of torque specs & the clearance for the Engine speed sensor for a quick reference.

I will look up the torque specs for the trans inspection cover tomorrow.





Speed sensor gap .049-.051

Capscrews inside the timing case 18ftlb
Timing case cover bolts 18ftlb
Vibration Damper bolts 92ftlb
Speed Sensory mounting bolts 18ftlb
Fan Mounting Bracket 18ftlb
Fan Shround Mounting Bolts 50inlb
Oil Filler mounting bolt at head 32ftlb
Oil Filler Tube Clamp 18ftlb





Big thanks to ISB , this should have actually been his thread but all the pics were on my camera so it was easier to do it here.

Again if anyone has anything to add please feel free to post it.




- Joe
 

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Great write up outlaw! :bigthumb: when i was installing my injectors, another guy at the shop was doin this to his 12 valve. it looks like you covered it all! i know it takes some time to do, but its worth it to get it done before it breaks! Great pics too! :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Ramaford

I forgot to add 1 picture in post 8. I will have to update it tomorrow as I'm home now about to hit the sack.






Picture of hidden case bolts location for step 8.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Zach , appreciate the help you provided , heck you deserve equal credit.

:bigthumb:




Ooohhh got sometihng cool from Piers today..Check my bomb thred. :naughty:
 

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thats a great write up thanks
 

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Does this thread apply to the new '06 24v Cummins? Apparently, Dodge was aware of this problem and corrected it (according to the sales guy!)
 
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