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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
what are the downsides of doing that (not for city driving)?

i'm talking 9007 bulbs.. Wire the relay so at high beams I get both low AND high..

seems that at high beam a lot of close-up stuff gets blacked out (makes sense).

only thing i could think of would be the temperature, it'd get too hot..

or can i safely do this?
 

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I don't know about that specific bulb, from from week 2 of having my truck I made it so that when I toss on the hi-beams my regualr lights & fogs stay on too. Technically it's illegal, but - just don't have your brights on when anyone else is around (DUH!) and you won't have any problems...

I haven't had any heat problems or anything, but again - this is different bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
don't need a kit, i can rewire it myself :D:

i think you all thought i was talking about two DIFFERENT bulbs - one high, one low, and have them work at the same time..

i was referring to 9007, which is high AND low, so both high AND low would be working at the Same time in one bulb..

still safe temp. wise?
 

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the headlight switch would not see an increase in amperage draw if you do it the way he is talking about. the only thing i would worry about is heat, which you already asked about, but if a company sells a kit to run it that way, then they probably have already tested it and it didnt get too hot, so you might as well try it
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i'm not cheap, but 100 bucks is a bit high for something as simple as running brighter lights..

either way if you're running both it'll draw that much current through the wiring, and get just as hot as it would if i were to do it myself..

3 plugs on the bulb

ground
+ for high
+ for low

all i have to do is wire the + for high to the + for low with a one way diode (if i am correct on the name...) and it should work, the + for high will also power the low, and the one way diode (again, if i am correct on the name)..

but still debating the heat issue, but there's really no way to avoid it if its there, not even with a plug, so if they did it, you're right, guess its nothing to worry about..

hmm however if i do it the way i described i'd be pulling the current from the high beam wire, if i do it through the relay, i would provide the current through two wires..

so screw the playing with the bulb method, i'm going to take the relay apart and put a diode (if that's the right name) on there so it would simply turn on both beams instead of pulling the current for both through one wire...

sorry for the gibberish, was having a discussion with myself.

time to go play with the relay, hope i don't burn nothing, these bulbs cost me 20 bucks a pop =)

thanks.
 

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Also... even if there is a kit for it, most of them are made for when you're driving. I think someone on here had their KC lights melt the plastic guards on them because they were getting hot. Even if it does get slightly hot, if you're driving and keeping air flowing on it, it shouldn't be a biggy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
question for ya..

in your average vehicle, the power to the headlight bulb goes in with one wire (for both high and low) and the relay determines which "way" it'll go? or are there two power wires...?

if its only one wire then i doubt i want to run some 130+ watts through it.. unless i run brand new wires to the harness and rewire the whole thing to simply use the headlight relay + switch without any of its original wiring...

thanks again
 

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i would run an extra relay that gets its power from a good source, like the distribution block or something, that way you dont run more power than there is supposed to be through the factory wiring, and just use it to turn your low beams on even when the high beam lever is pressed
 

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If its high/neutral/low, than its really easy. Get a cheap relay, cut the low beam wire, connect 30 to bulb low, 86 to high beam with scotch lock,85 to ground, 87 to battery w/fuse, 87a to the original low beam wire. Now when low beam is on it gets power from the original wire, when high beam is on high beam gets power from original wire,and flips the relay, cutting the original wire so it doesn't backtap power where it should not be, and powers the low beam directly off the battery.

If its high ground/positive/low ground, you run a new thicker positive to the headlight plug. If you want, you can put a relay to cut power using the original wire to switch it. That would go 95 to original, 96 to ground, 97 to bulb, 30 to battery. Than you would need a relay conneted 87 to high beams with a scotch lock, 85 to original positive, 87a to original low beam, 87 to ground, 30 to low beam on bulb plug.
 
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