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Discussion Starter #1
Well, after spending the weekend at a buddies college partying and helpin him with some personal stuff I'm back home and back to work on the engine.

Today I cleaned up both heads the intake, and the gasket surfaces on the engine block to a nice shine removing all dirt/debris/gunk from 22 years of abuse. Set the heads back on and bolted them but not torqued them down yet. Then I removed each lifter and inspected them individually when I found that two of them have been caved in on the bottom (camshaft side). They were the ones that I had a hard time removing from the block which makes me think they froze and which would explain the knocking noise I had. SO I put my little dodge thinking hat on and came up with this... Why replace JUST the lifters? So I just ordered more toys in a feeble attempt to keep the truck happy by throwing more money at it <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif"> Here's what I got:

Crane PowerMax Cam with 204/216 dur and 427/454 lift, Crane Hydro Rockers, Crane Hardened pushrods, Crane Springs with new retainers, and Crane Adj. Shaft Mount Rockers ($250 right there... man Dodge stuff is expensive!) for a total of like $600. They said its coming out of Ohio so it should make it to me in western MD (its only like 6 hours from my house to their warehouse) by Weds cause it'll ship tommorow.

Looks like my headgasket tech write up has expanded into a top 1/2 engine rebuild <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif"> I'm lookin to get 40+ HP outta all this between the cam stuff, cleaning up all the oil passages to get better pressure thru them, and I got alot of gunk outta the combustion chamer which should raise compression a little more.

Later all,

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #2
BTW, LUV24BY should like my newest toys... <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">

Later all,
-Chris
 

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Damn Chris, you are gonna have one pumped up lil 318. I am almost startin to get jealous. The more I hear about your engine rebuild and mods, the more I wanna build up a new 351W. As soon as I finish my suspension and drivetrain. All I have to get is my 4.10 gears, extended radius arms, torque arms, and my Lockright. Then comes my motor. I just realized . . . I need another job!!!

Bring on the beer, babes, and Broncos!!!

Again, good luck with your truck Chris. And the saga continues . . .
 

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Thx, Nick... its support like that, that keeps the desire to modify going. I don't have lockers or gears yet so don't feel to jealous <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif"> I just got the power to push the stock gears to their max potential... ARB Air Locker Read and Detroit Locker front with 5.11's is next on my list. Probably be 4-5 months before that tho as I want to get a set of Dana 60's F/R cause I'm gonna up grade to 44's when I get the gears. Also I have to get the $500 conversion kit, or find a NP205 in a bone yard, so that I have parttime 4 wheel drive.

Also when I get to Phoenix in January I'm gonna have some 18" springs made, and install a 3" body lift with the borgeson steering shaft.

Later all I'm off to tear my engine apart.

-Chris
 

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Adding horse power is like a drug. you can never get to much of it.
When I started building my Mustang I had humble plans to just add a few horse and make it kind of fast.. two years later I am still making changes and the thing is a monster..

Whats worse is now the need is spilling over onto my truck... I guess its time to seriously look at superchargers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You wanna talk needing HP? <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif"> My '96 Z-28 (I just sold the engine for 5K with 28,000 miles on it) that I just sold cause I couldn't afford the insurance on it, but now I can ands seriously regret selling it <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif"> dynoed at 613 rear wheel horsepower. For those that have no clue what I'm talking about, thats 613 horsepower that is actually making it to the asphault. Thats ALOT for a daily driven street car. I bored the 350 .030" over, all forged and internally balanced bottom end (including a new Eagle crankshaft), domed pistons that had a 12.5:1 Compression Ratio, 5 angle jobed the heads with over sized valves (1.60/2.20), the GM LT4 hot cam, all hyrdaulic roller valve train with adjustable rockers. Full length headers with true 3" dual exhaust with X pipe and flowmaster 30 series mufflers. Then just to pour salt in the wounds of those that raced me I put on a 250HP Nitrous shot.

I didn't loose <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">, hell even the cops wouldn't bother pulling me over they'd just come to my house a couple days later... guess it was easier for them?

-Chrs
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You wanna talk needing HP? <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif"> My '96 Z-28 (I just sold the engine for 5K with 28,000 miles on it) that I just sold cause I couldn't afford the insurance on it, but now I can ands seriously regret selling it <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif"> dynoed at 613 rear wheel horsepower. For those that have no clue what I'm talking about, thats 613 horsepower that is actually making it to the asphault. Thats ALOT for a daily driven street car. I bored the 350 .030" over, all forged and internally balanced bottom end (including a new Eagle crankshaft), domed pistons that had a 12.5:1 Compression Ratio, 5 angle jobed the heads with over sized valves (1.60/2.20), the GM LT4 hot cam, all hyrdaulic roller valve train with adjustable rockers. Full length headers with true 3" dual exhaust with X pipe and flowmaster 30 series mufflers. Then just to pour salt in the wounds of those that raced me I put on a 250HP Nitrous shot.

I didn't loose <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">, hell even the cops wouldn't bother pulling me over they'd just come to my house a couple days later... guess it was easier for them?

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Last time on 79W-150's Engine Rebuild you heard about the two lifters that were caved in and froze in the block.

Well today I pulled the pulleys, waterpump and timing chain cover off. When I removed the timing chain cover I lined up the timing marks on the sprockets and check it to the distributor position. Well with the timing chain having 1" of free play (it should be pretty taunt, but not real tight so this was BAD) the distributor was about 15 degrees off where it shoulda been on the #1 mark (the crank is at #1 TDC). That would explain part of my truck having no power.

Ok, so after I took a pic of me showing the slop in my timing chain I removed the chain and sprockets. Unbolted the three bolts holding the cam in place, pulled the distributor up and out then used a screwdriver to disengage the oilpump/dist gear from the camshaft. Had to use a flat head screw driver to help loosen the cam so I could remove it. Upon removal and cleaning I noticed that the #8 Exhaust cam lobe was non existant because of that froze lifter. That would also expain the lack of power.

I can't wait! to see how this new cam and valvetrain will work in the truck. Its gonna run like a stuck pig! LOL

Later all, back to playing on the truck. I'll update more later.

-Chris
 

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Chris, if you get me all the specs of the motor, I can plug it in to the desktop dyno and get you a dang close idea to the power of your new engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok here we go...

Bore and Stroke : 3.91 X 3.31
Cam Duration : 204 Intake / 216 Exhaust
Cam Lift : 427 Intake / 454 Exhaust

what else do you need?

-Chris
 

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Chris,

Did the timing marks line up? With that much slop in the chain I wouldnt be suprized if is had jumped a tooth or two.

Are you planning to pull the bottem end apart and see what if any damage was done by all the metal that came off of the cam and lifters? I would bet that you have one hell of a mess in the oil pan and in the oil pick up screen.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I'm pulling the oilpan tonight and gonna clean it all up. I'm also going to replace both main seals while I'm down there... might as well, cause they were leaking and the Felpro kit has them in it.

I'm hoping nothing to serious with bottom end tho, cause if there is I really don't have the time for a complete rebuild the way I wanna do it (clean/magnaflux/bore .030 over, deck the block and machine the heads.

-Chris
 

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Chris,
i need the intake/ exhast valve timing specs, compression ratio valve size carburater. the more info, the more accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok... sorry its been a while, but work has been really hectic!

Tonight was the first night I really got a chance to start reassembling everything. Put the oilpan, timing chain cover, and waterpump back on tonight. I painted them all with 500 degree aluminum color auto paint. I'm gonna buy some 1500 degree paint tommorow and paint the whole block too.

Tommorow after work, yeah Sears is open on sundays and it really blows!, I'm gonna put the intake and distributor back on and then change out the valve springs and stuff. Hopefully it'd be done tommorow or Monday. So I can break it in on Tuesday while I'm off, and maybe do some 'wheelin on Weds (my other day off).

Later all,

-Chris
 
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