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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, people who are new might not know me and those of you who remember me, well I just found my way home (back to business and the PS.com moderators!)
I was throwing out to those members who have lifts 4" or more (body or suspension) what problems/custom work/weaking points have you done, experienced or are planning on?
I have just had some work done to my driveline and once it's fully tested I plan to give y'all the results (This includes performance prior and post the driveshaft rebuild!)
Any input or experience anyone has would be appreciated! :):
Thanks!
LUV24BY
 

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Welcome back John! Wondering if you were actually going to make it back....

Can't help you with your post though :):
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Jason! I appreciate the personal touch! I was throwing this out because it is someting I am experiencing on a daily basis with the modifications that pop up due to lifting my Dodge! I was hoping to give some information to our friends who use this site and maybe be of some help before something seriously goes wrong!
So, I hope to at least assist and educate rather than critize and speculate!! :):
How is a before and after report on this??
Would anyone feel it could be of benefit?
Just kicking back and waiting for the general census!
LUV24BY
 

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Write it up anyway. If you amkeit inthe format of the Tech Section I can post it there.
 

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On my '99 CUMMINS QC longbed auto with the Skyjacker 4.5" lift you'll need a 1" spacer to drop the carrier bearing for the rear drive shaft----chris
 

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not enuff to do anything about it to date because of the lift--but I've since installed a heavy duty t-case and have info on that concerning both driveshafts---concerning the front driveshaft when going from a light duty t-case to the heavy duty t-case is thfact that the heavy duty t-case is one inch longer, which means stretching the front driveshaft 1" just by pulling it out--no ill affects to date for sled pulling--for 4x4ing the truck hasn't seen anything nasty as I've got other issues to work out before I can meet you guys on the trails----I do have another front driveshaft, but haven't needed to see if it's longer at this point---the one inch difference in t-case lengths means other things for the rear driveshaft, but I'll leave that for another time as there more to it than that---chris
 

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If you are doing the rear shaft, can you upgrade to a slip yoke eliminator kit (if your new t-case is a slip yoke). Throw a Klune-V under there and then buy the new shafts. Nothing like a Cummins with a 5.61:1 first gear, 2.73:1 t-case and a 4:1 under drive and 4.10:1 gears. 251:1 crawl ratio behind a truck with 400+ lb-ft of torque :D:
 

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Jason--how about 625lbs of torque--that's just my usual for everyday driving unless someone irritates me and then I can bump it up to over 900lbs of torque---actually I'll know better after this Friday as I'll be dynoing the truck with different injectors, boxes and a new turbo so I'm expecting some pretty awesome #'s---

back to your point--ummm food for thought on that setup---basically the heavy duty t-case is one inch longer in the front section thus it pushes both driveshaft connection points one inch rearward--bolts up the same to the crossmember and tranny---now my truck has an auto tranny and this may have some bearing on the driveshafts as they are from a manual truck--here's some points of interest:

1) the rear driveshaft from a manual tranny truck vs the auto tranny truck is bigger in diameter--I want to say 1" but that may be too much, but it's bigger
2) the t-case output shaft is about 3/8" bigger in diameter from the light duty to heavy duty t-case---this can be changed to the smaller output if your driveshaft is of the smaller size
3) the carrier bearing mount will need to move one inch rearward
4) the rear driveshaft from a manual with the heavy duty case is one inch shorter than the driveshaft from the auto with the light duty t-case

I think that covers it, if I remember something else I'll post it---chris
 
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