The other day I took off my swaybar and thought I would see how much I could flex my truck. I drove one front wheel up a gradual slope retaining wall until the back tire strated spinning. My front tire was about three feet in the air and we got out to look at it. We admired it for about 5 minutes and drove off. Ever since then the front wheel that was on the wall sits about 1 inch lower than the other side. I'm afraid compressing the spring that much hurt it. Is there another possible explanation? Would replacing the swaybar help the truck to sit level on level ground? Any help from you guys who flex a lot would help. I am mainly a mudder, I was just playing around and wish I wouldn't have now. Thanks.
flexing problems
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
Try replacing the sway-bar to see if it levels out. You will probably see if you tweaked something if the sway-bar doesn't go back on the way it should. Was this right after you flexed? Did you drive it around for a while? Check to see if the coil springs are seated correctly. Let me tell yah, if you don't plan on rock crawlin, you don't need that much articulation/flex. It looks cool and all, but you don't want to be spendin money to repair something just to look cool. I have a 5" lift and with the sway-bar connected, I get pretty decent articulation...more than I really need. Let me know what you find out? Good Luck!~ <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/bigthumbup.gif">
A lot of the Dodges have a major difference in weight from side to side. I've heard that the factory tolerance on height difference is 1".
The difference may have been there all along, and the sway-bar hiding it, by continually fighting it.
Try putting it back as another poster has said, and see if it goes away.
The difference may have been there all along, and the sway-bar hiding it, by continually fighting it.
Try putting it back as another poster has said, and see if it goes away.
Yota, being a previous Toyota man I could say to take of your sway bar, it will only benefit you without having it! Trust me, been there done that! Ruffram, you might want to take a floor jack and lift up the front end to take off the front tires, then I would measure from a decided mutual point on either side and see if the distance to point A to point B is the same. Say, for example - Measure from the edge of the lip right above the coil to the lower bolt holding the shock to original position. See if there is a difference, if not then try and measure the coils from top to bottom. If all is well, bolt your bar back on and go from there. <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/dunno.gif">
Also, have you considered checking out the Track Bar? I would do an extensive investigation both visually and by trying to move things (checking for looseness)while they are bolted together before I buy ANYTHING! I have been goofing off trying to flex out my lift, and I am happy so far, I would prefer a bit more though. I don't necessarily want to make any changes yet until my lift it well seated and work through! <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">
Just some suggestions on how I would handle it! <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif">
Either way, let us know!
LUV24BY
_________________
1997 Dodge Ram 1500 CC SB 4x4 "Sport"
360ci V-8, Auto, 3.55 Limited Slip
5.5" Fab-Tech Performance Lift w/ 4.5" rear leaf springs & Dual Shocks up front
35x12.50x15 Goodyear MT/R's on Centerline 15x10's
Also, have you considered checking out the Track Bar? I would do an extensive investigation both visually and by trying to move things (checking for looseness)while they are bolted together before I buy ANYTHING! I have been goofing off trying to flex out my lift, and I am happy so far, I would prefer a bit more though. I don't necessarily want to make any changes yet until my lift it well seated and work through! <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">
Just some suggestions on how I would handle it! <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif">
Either way, let us know!
LUV24BY
_________________
1997 Dodge Ram 1500 CC SB 4x4 "Sport"
360ci V-8, Auto, 3.55 Limited Slip
5.5" Fab-Tech Performance Lift w/ 4.5" rear leaf springs & Dual Shocks up front
35x12.50x15 Goodyear MT/R's on Centerline 15x10's
I am getting ready to bolt on that swaybar, I was curious as to what people mean when they talk about the trackbar. I know what it is, but I don't know what it means to wear it out. One guy in here said he has worn out two. I don't understand how it wears out, isn't it a solid steel bar? If the bushings wear out, I would think that you could replace them and not the entire bar. Please set me straight and forgive my ignorance. It does make sense that if my trackbar is bent it would let the axle move over and appear lower on one side. Thanks for helping me out.
I beleive that would be me. Two trackbars in 44K miles.
At the frame-end of the track-bar there's a ball-joint. A ball-joint made out of WAY too soft of metal. Even pavement-pounding only Rams will eventually need a new one.
I'm replacing mine with a rebuilt Linstead unit, and later when the cashflow frees up, will put in a DT track-bar, as those are bullet-proof.
You know your track-bar is dead when you have someone turn the wheels back/forth (sawing slowly), and you see the ball-joint "popping" up/down. It don't look quite right.
Actaully, have the ball-joints in my front suspension links are doing wierd things... Think I've been a bit rough on them. <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">
At the frame-end of the track-bar there's a ball-joint. A ball-joint made out of WAY too soft of metal. Even pavement-pounding only Rams will eventually need a new one.
I'm replacing mine with a rebuilt Linstead unit, and later when the cashflow frees up, will put in a DT track-bar, as those are bullet-proof.
You know your track-bar is dead when you have someone turn the wheels back/forth (sawing slowly), and you see the ball-joint "popping" up/down. It don't look quite right.
Actaully, have the ball-joints in my front suspension links are doing wierd things... Think I've been a bit rough on them. <IMG SRC="/board/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif">
DT makes the only adjustable-length one that I know of.
However, I just ended up ordering a rebuilt trac-bar from Linstead Alignment. They rebuild the ball-joint on the frame-end to be a LOT beefier than stock. The new joint is also tightenable, so that if it wears down the road, you can tighten it back up just by torquing it down some more.
The stock socket for the ball-joint is plastic. Any decently wheeled 1/2 ton or heavier will just trash that, I can imagine. They replace it with a metal one.
Ride is probably a bit harsher, but worth it from a reliability/safety standpoint.
Here's some contact info for both:
Linstead Alignment:
http://www.blackhills.com/lindstad/
DT Fab:
PH#(520)776-4129
However, I just ended up ordering a rebuilt trac-bar from Linstead Alignment. They rebuild the ball-joint on the frame-end to be a LOT beefier than stock. The new joint is also tightenable, so that if it wears down the road, you can tighten it back up just by torquing it down some more.
The stock socket for the ball-joint is plastic. Any decently wheeled 1/2 ton or heavier will just trash that, I can imagine. They replace it with a metal one.
Ride is probably a bit harsher, but worth it from a reliability/safety standpoint.
Here's some contact info for both:
Linstead Alignment:
http://www.blackhills.com/lindstad/
DT Fab:
PH#(520)776-4129
Ruff Ram. Make sure you didn't overcompress and ruin the shock on that side also. Depending on what kind of shocks you have, some shocks have quite a bit of hydraulic extension properties on there own. The Heckethorns on my truck are like this. Hope this helps. Thanks, Bodie Jr.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
