EGT probe placement - my head hurts now
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Pre is best and IMO an easier install.
You can do it with the turbo installed but it takes 15min to pull it off so its worth the time. Shuff some paper towels up in the manifold past where you're drilling (make sure you can get it out). Drill and tap the rear bank. You can place it in the front bank if you want but #6 cylinder usually runs hottest. Clean it up slap the turbo back on and you're done.
Here's where it goes
[img=500x375]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/C4L/1994%202500/pyro.jpg[/img]
You can do it with the turbo installed but it takes 15min to pull it off so its worth the time. Shuff some paper towels up in the manifold past where you're drilling (make sure you can get it out). Drill and tap the rear bank. You can place it in the front bank if you want but #6 cylinder usually runs hottest. Clean it up slap the turbo back on and you're done.
Here's where it goes
[img=500x375]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/C4L/1994%202500/pyro.jpg[/img]
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I put mine where ISB put his. Pre turbo is better, but takes longer cause you have to pull the turbo off. Pulling it off is not that bad though.
i have seen guys that did pre turbo and they didnt remove the turbo when they drilled.
what they did was drill a bit, then blow it clean and drill some more and blow it clean and right as they were getting close to going through, they just turned on a little shop vac and finished the hole...
they said they had never had a problem with doing it that way
but say i do take the turbo off, all i do is just undo the 4 bolts or whatever to the exhaust manifold and just bungee it away? should i reuse the gasket or isnt there one?
-Josh
what they did was drill a bit, then blow it clean and drill some more and blow it clean and right as they were getting close to going through, they just turned on a little shop vac and finished the hole...
they said they had never had a problem with doing it that way
but say i do take the turbo off, all i do is just undo the 4 bolts or whatever to the exhaust manifold and just bungee it away? should i reuse the gasket or isnt there one?
-Josh
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You have the 4 bolts that hold it on the manifold, the exhaust, oil drain steel line on the bottom of the turbo, take off the intake from the turbo and the rubber boot off the turbo for the hose going into the intercooler. Just lay it out of the way, you can reuse the gasket. I think that was everything.
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On a 12v I guess there is evidence that cyl 1 runs the hottest. This was brought up on NWBombers at one time. Something to do with the poor airflow in the intake stream for the #1 cylinder.
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Pre is better, but I think post is easier. The probe on my 24V is post turbo, I just keep it under 1000*. My probe on my 6.0L Ford is pre. I have heard of smearin grease on the drill bit just before it cuts through to grab the shavings so they don't fall into the manifold.
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FWIW -Under load there can be as much as a 600 degree difference between pre/post turbo readings
well after a few hours of searching and looking at numerous pictures i have found this out
the isspro EV and the diprocal gauges look pretty damn similar but there seems to be a pretty good price difference
so i am pretty set on getting the isspro gauges (boost and pyro)
so i call checker and talk to tony (tony is the only guy who knows anything there and he gives me good discounts) he said he has no listing for them - {expletive}
so i figure i will just buy them from a vendor on here, well 4wheelcustoms doesnt list them...shit. iron horse hasnt answered a PM that i sent him coming up on a week ago....
then i am left with what else am i going to need after i get these gauges (sending units, lead wires, boost fittings... etc etc)
so any help here would be much appreciated :wall:
-Josh
the isspro EV and the diprocal gauges look pretty damn similar but there seems to be a pretty good price difference
so i am pretty set on getting the isspro gauges (boost and pyro)
so i call checker and talk to tony (tony is the only guy who knows anything there and he gives me good discounts) he said he has no listing for them - {expletive}
so i figure i will just buy them from a vendor on here, well 4wheelcustoms doesnt list them...shit. iron horse hasnt answered a PM that i sent him coming up on a week ago....
then i am left with what else am i going to need after i get these gauges (sending units, lead wires, boost fittings... etc etc)
so any help here would be much appreciated :wall:
-Josh
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I would try http://www.dieselpage.com
yah, i have talked to him before and he seems like a good guy, i just lost any and all information he has given me
i figured he was busy though, i know we have been busy at the shop so i understand that...tis the season i guess
-Josh
I got my Auto meter EGT, boost, Fuel, and pillar at summit racing. They have a bunch of styles to pic from. When i did mine i just lossened the housing at the collector and slid a thin pice of cardboard between them and blew out the shavings twoards the card board ( witch were next to none). I also put a big goab of grease on my drill bit for shaving to stick to.
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3,385 Posts
dude, its freakin easy, put it PRE-turbo. I did mine that way, and no problems at all. works the best, and as others have said, post turbo could be 600 or more degrees lower than pre. Hell, I hit 1500 pretty easy with just a comp box on 5x5 when I lay it into the floor board for an extended amount of time. I would not even think about post turbo for a pyro.
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484 Posts
Keep using some thick grease on your drill bit, When it keeps dring up, clean everything, put new grease on your bit and keep going, when you through all the way, use a small magnet to get some shaving, then a q-tip with a little grease. Just did an 05 this weekend, worked pretty good. :bigthumb:
Has anyone actually seen one fail? I think for one to fail, it has to melt off, get hit by something, or ??? If it melts off, the turbo is already ruined, as are the pistons, and probably the cylinder wall. If something hits it, that means a valve is floating around causing all kinds of carnage anyway.
Put it in the manifold. Just before the drill breaks through blow away the shavings, drill it, and get a magnet. You can pull the turbo if you want, I did not.
Michael
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439 Posts
Im still here, just don't check as often as I used to.
Drill the pyro pre turbo, you don't need to pull the turbo, just keep blowing the chips off as you drill and tap, then fish a magnet into the hole. I always keep sticking the magnet in and reaching as far into every corner it will reach and stop when it doesnt have any more metal shavings on it.
I have seen a few thermocouple failures on farm tractors, mostly do to extremely high EGT's melting the thermocouple.
Drill the pyro pre turbo, you don't need to pull the turbo, just keep blowing the chips off as you drill and tap, then fish a magnet into the hole. I always keep sticking the magnet in and reaching as far into every corner it will reach and stop when it doesnt have any more metal shavings on it.
I have seen a few thermocouple failures on farm tractors, mostly do to extremely high EGT's melting the thermocouple.
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