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Dodge 2500 12 " lift.....

9762 Views 38 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  jplasse
I have been over looking everyones posts but just recently registered to make a post. Ive done the searches and have a couple questions

Im goin for about 12 inch lift on my 2500. Have 2 inch spacer and want to go with Full Throttle 10 inch coil. Was planning on using Thuren Fab for my steering issues. Question 1 is what Drop Pitman should I use for this size lift and Thuren Fab steering components? and 2 Would I be able to fit 38's with a Cepek Long arm kit without getting it extended and no rubbing? or should I get one made couple inches longer from Extreme suspensions?

Also for rear, where should I get leavs for the back from and what size lift spring would make truck sit level... Not a huge fan of front higher than back or vice versa...

:sorry: for the standard suspension repeat questions :wall: but I searched and didnt find what I was lookin for. Most were 1500 questions. Thanks in advance. Great site.
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use the extreme drop pitman arm. yeah you can run 38s on the DC arms and go with leaves in the rear.
You could go with 7" coils with spacers and be fine, unless you want the bottom of your truck to sit like 2" above your tires.
Rattlin' Dodge had 7" Skyjacker and 2.5" spacers on 38's. They fit easy.
If you are just looking to clear 38's, no need for 12" on a 2500. Hell I ran 27's with 4.5" on my 2500 no rub. I clear 42's with 11" of lift
Have Don build your long arms too, the cepeks arent that thick. they are .120 wall thickness, i would go with .95 DOM tubing it is alot stronger and will be able to support the weight of the truck and i would extended them some too instead of the regular long arm length, which is 47/48 inches i believe.
You will have noticeable pull back on the axle running 12" of suspension on 6" arms, even the cepeks.
Id run 12 inches of lift with 38s. But I love the "sky over ythe tire look". Its a california thing i guess.
im running 10" with 38.5's with no rubbing issues.. no need to go more suspension i think it might look goofy. the only reason i went 10 was so i could get full flex.

also what about driveshaft issues at 12" of suspension? isnt he going to have to get a custom shaft made
On 2005-11-29 13:22, v10sport wrote:
If you are just looking to clear 38's, no need for 12" on a 2500. Hell I ran 27's with 4.5" on my 2500 no rub. I clear 42's with 11" of lift

I bet it was tight with 27's, though. :rotfl:
being able to rub is a reletive term... you say you have no rub issues with your truck Bradmo with 10" but im sure if you turned the wheel while flexxing it would rub like crazy (going off the pictures in your post). still, it doesnt easily rub but if you are looking to absolutely never rub, you may want the 12". i am running 17" on my 1500 and 41's and can still make them rub without too much problem
but yes, extreme drop pitman, thuren steering, thuren trac bar, extended DC long arms, you should be set. orf course you will need a re-indexing ring and/or a new driveshaft up front
Drew, is that with the swaybar still on?
k drew you got me. yes if i turn and flex it does rub.. my bad but to get it to not rub there i need longer arms.. ive trimmed the body a little but im not gonna do that much more. i just trimmed so it wouldnt cut the tires anymore.
On 2005-11-29 16:06, Jason wrote:

I bet it was tight with 27's, though. :rotfl:

You got me on that one :rotfl:
Haha. :D:
Yea I dont like tires stuffed in the wheel wells when im just drivin. Thats why I want a pretty large lift with 38's... possibly 40's... Anyone have Don make them arms before? if so what price did you pay so I can get an idea of what Id be lookin for... What length should I have him make the arms? And whats good place to get leafs for the back? size of leafs for back for a level look????? THANKS for all the replys so far. Very helpful
If you're going for 38"S, 10"s will give you the clearance you're looking for. Im running the combo on my 2500 and the truck almost sits on the tires with much more than the necessary amount of clearance. I could do 40"s easily, but I like my gearing right now. You'll run into front driveline issues with 12"s most likely, and will probably require an aftermarket high angle shaft ($$) in addition to indexing the t-case. I'd say run 40"s or 42"s with 12"s. Just my personal opinion, and I have similar taste...I dont like stuffing the biggest tire you can up there; I like to have plenty of clearance also. Either way, definitely have custom arms made, order lengthened cepek arms, or move the brackets forward on the frame for their normal kit. As for the rear, Atlas Spring and Deaver makes custom leafs any size you want. Im about to install 11" Atlas' on mine, which will remove my blocks entirely. They get pretty stiff with that much arch though.

BTW here's a reference pic, 10"s and 38" SSRs.

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:withstupid: mine is really close to his just a 1500. im sitting almost on top of the tires and i agree with saying that 12" and 40's-42's would be awesome.

heres a pic of mine


i have a more legit reason than you to not go up more.. i need axles and what not, you dont. it would cost me a lot more to get up to 12" and 40's.
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Here's what 11" up front and 9 in the rear looks like with 38s on my 2500 CTD. SJ springs gave me 8" + 3" coil spacers. I was able to center the axle perfectly up front with longer UCAs (they are SJs 4.5" kit lower arms) and the stock SJ lower long arms. Anymore lift would be overkill for 38s IMHO.

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