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Discussion Starter #1
I'm fabricating my own custom 8" lift for my Dodge. Do I need to get my driveshaft lengthend or will it be a big problem?? I've heard of dropping the transfer case, does this word too? I do very little off-roading, so it's mainly for looks. Also, what other problems will I run into building this lift??
 

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Skyjacker has developed an adapter ring that bolts between the tranny, and the t case that rotates the t case down and in doing so straightens drivline angles, saves u joint wear etc. I am going to use a 5 inch skyjacker with daystars and 2 inch blocks out back and I figure that if a 5 inch lift doesn't need any mods to the drivlines, a 7 inch with a lowered t case should be fine. One problem, the last I knew skyjacker hadn't released it for sale. My 4 x 4 shop couldn't get a price, part number or availability. We were told the first week in January that it would be available in Feb. Anyone else heard anyhting about this adapter? I saw it in photos from the SEMA show in "Off-Road" magazine.
P.S. How do you plan on getting 8 inches of lift, I am just curious?
 

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The Skyjacker 7" kit is going to be in the $3000 range, and is wild!

Frankly, if you're not going off-road, why 8" of lift?

Is this a late-model or a pre-1993 model ram?

8" of lift on a late-model is going to be work, and money, and more work, and more money...

Is it a 1500 or a 2500? I assume if you're going to be going to 8" of lift, you want to run some very large tires. Well, if you go much or 35, I doubt the front Dana 44 will handle it, and you'll have axle reliability problems. So add in another $2000-4000 or more for new axles.

Mainly, you'll need to worry about the driveline angles. Definitley need custom axle-shafts, and you'll want to conver the t-case to a fixed-yoke output, and use a real slip-shaft drive-shaft. You may need to get custom u-joints and yokes made that will operate at the extreme angle it's going to be at.

Good luck, and hope things workout, either finding the size lift you need, or if you fab it yourself, that it works out well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hahaha. The answer to that is.......well, I'm not sure. Hahaha. Actually, I got 6" blocks for the rear, with an add a leaf kit. I'm having a machine shop fabricate new U bolts and custom ladder bars, which I will need because of the tall blocks. They also are making custom control arms for the front. I ordered extended braided brake lines for the brakes and some new shocks. For the front, I got trac bar relocating brackets, and 5" coils from skyjacker. 3" rancho coil spacers on top of them. Also, I'm getting a 6" drop pitman arm and swaybar drop brackets. You guys are probably right, I should keep my lift to a mild 5". But I'm young and not married so now is the time to have a big truck a figure. Hahaha. Would there be anything else I would have to do for this lift? Also, what size gears would you guys recommend? 39" Mickey Thompson's are next on my list.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know this is not how most of you guys would lift you trucks because of the reliability issue, but I'm not going to be driving it much at all these next couple of years. I'm have all the original 3" lift components that are on it now that I'll put back on the truck when I do eventually sell it. Oh by the way, it's a 97 1500. Thanks for all the advice and information so far! LOTS of help! : bigthumb
 

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I have 8" on my 2500 plus 3 more body, the 39.5" have plenty clearance If I picked tires like half the people on Truckworld.com, then I would be running 42's
maybe 1 more inch of lift and 44's, I dont know why they stuff the biggest tire that will still turn under their truck. Back to the 8" lift. If you custom build your trakbar bracket, sway bar brackets and arms, you could do 8" easily in the front. Or you could spend $550.00 of the skyjacker front box kit and modify those. But you will need a PROFESSIONAL to bend you the new steering bar, a drop pitman will not be enough. The front driveshaft will not work, it will not even spin. You will need to drop the t-case, or buy the 80 degree driveshaft featured in 4 wheeler mag. or locate this spacer someone talked about. The rear springs, with that much arch(8"), would hit the rear shackle even on flat pavement, and )ride like a tank), you need to invert the shackle, that will give you in the neighborhood of 4 or 5 inches of lift and a set of skyjacker 4" leaf packs should do it. For your front coils they will have to be custom made at around 600.00-1000.00 a pair, or get the skyjacker 5.5 coils and 3" spacer(300.00)
You have alot of work ahead of you, but if you are a machinest or know one, it can be done. Goodluck man.
 

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if your not gonna be doing any wheeling with this thing then why not go with the whiplash 10 inch kit and save yourself alot of trouble. its not a good kit for offroading but you only want it for looks, so there you go.
 

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you can send the brake lines back, you dont need them, just unbolt the bracket that holds the brake line in a U-shape on the axle, then pry open the bracket, and throw the bracket away, that should be long enough, test susp flex when completed and have someone watch the brake line to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah, that sounds great. Save me a little money. One other reason I bought the brakes was because I heard the stock lines will swell when the brakes are applied with the big tires. Is this true?
 

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Steel braid lines will definitely firm up your pedal, and give you a bit more braking power.

Not much of a problem with the new (2000+) dual-piston front calipers, but those that I know with the stainless brake-lines definitely feel a difference, and like it.
 
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