[Jason]

I\'m thinking a divorce-mount t-case would be better, so I want to run it by the masses. Setting it up doesn\'t seem too hard. The 1.96:1 is fine for me as well, but I\'m not sure about the durability of the case itself. Also, did any drivers-side drop divorce mount 205 come with 32 spline shafts front and rear? If not, can they be retrofitted? And finally, can they accept a 1410 u-joint? I hope it works, because I won\'t have to mess with the transmission that way.

 

[Guest]

I\'m thinking a divorce-mount t-case would be better, so I want to run it by the masses. Setting it up doesn\'t seem too hard. The 1.96:1 is fine for me as well, but I\'m not sure about the durability of the case itself. Also, did any drivers-side drop divorce mount 205 come with 32 spline shafts front and rear? If not, can they be retrofitted? And finally, can they accept a 1410 u-joint? I hope it works, because I won\'t have to mess with the transmission that way.

a ford divorced 205 is 32 spline on all the yokes and is driver drop, yes you can get 1410 for it and you can't get any stronger of a case, those things are one heavy sob piece of iron.

that is the case i am running in my wheeler, pretty hard to break them

 

[ZacD]

:withstupid:

What he said.

As far as a light truck mass produced transfer case, I don't think there's anything stronger than a 205. Ford and GM used them in 2-1/2 ton trucks for quite a while (i.e. 4wd F600s and C60s in the '70s and '80s).

 

[Jason]

Cool, thanks guys. I found this one locally. Do ALL divorce-mount ford np205's have 32 spline yokes/shafts?

Also Ken, do you have any pics of how yours is mounted up? I will keep searching, but I'm having a hard time finding a custom mount idea.

Well, the guy thinks the running gear is from a '77 ford, so it looks like this has the 32-spline shafts. Yay for me. Hopefully I can go this weekend and pick it up. Plans are to rebuild and inspect it within the next couple of weeks. Once I get a mount made, I will probably take the old shaft from the automatic and have one end shortened down to make the intermediate shaft. It's just sitting in the garage, since I used the shaft from the donor truck for the 5-sp. swap. Plus the other shaft has yokes for 1410's. The only other question I have is, since this truck has a carrier bearing, will I need to keep that with the transfer case setup plans? Or can I ditch it and put the output yoke of the t-case in the exact same spot as the carrier bearing? So that, basically, everything from the carrier-bearing back will be the same. Thoughts???

 

[Guest]

all ford divorced 205s are 32 spline, yes you can put the case output in place of the center bearing, that would work just fine.

i have pictures on my other computer, i may have them also on photobucket, i have to look[hr]

here is what i did , it allowed me to bolt to the side and bottom of the frame and be able to run my exhaust, the pass side is pretty much the same, i had to box the end to allow me to adjust the height of the pass side since it is offset

 

[ZacD]

Yeah, you can do away with the carrier bearing. Only thing I'd be worried about is, at that point, the length of the front shaft. That sucker's liable to be pretty long and given the Dodge D60 up front is a low pinion unit, you might have to worry about dragging that thing across some stuff if you ever wheel it.

 

[Guest]

Yeah, you can do away with the carrier bearing. Only thing I'd be worried about is, at that point, the length of the front shaft. That sucker's liable to be pretty long and given the Dodge D60 up front is a low pinion unit, you might have to worry about dragging that thing across some stuff if you ever wheel it.

a long front shaft is not any different than any of the ford highboy trucks, the long shaft would also help keep decent driveline angles with using a low pinion.

 

[Jason]

Thanks guys. Really makes the decision that much easier. Also if I decide to swap in a bit heavier-duty transmission (and one that parts are more readily available for), it will simply be a matter of transmission mount fabrication. Being as how it has a pilot shaft, do I have to be dead on the money when lining the t-case up to the output of the transmission? Last question, since the t-case uses the yoke-style front output, can I just have a single u-joint on each end, instead of the double cardan style that comes factory on the dodges?

Driveline angles would be really helpful, as I'm thinking a bit more lift than I originally anticipated. If I can get them equal-length, that would be sweet. Also, thanks for posting the pics Ken. Those yellow bushings on the pic I posted, I assume those go to the original highboy cab crossmember? So in essence, I really could build a crossmember with a slight hump and re-use those brackets/bushings, right? Actually, one more question. Should I get the new driveshafts with slip splines (or whatever they're called) built into them? Basically taking the slip from the yokes to the driveshafts. I'm sure my driveline guy would need to know that.

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys. Really makes the decision that much easier. Also if I decide to swap in a bit heavier-duty transmission (and one that parts are more readily available for), it will simply be a matter of transmission mount fabrication. Being as how it has a pilot shaft, do I have to be dead on the money when lining the t-case up to the output of the transmission? Last question, since the t-case uses the yoke-style front output, can I just have a single u-joint on each end, instead of the double cardan style that comes factory on the dodges?

Driveline angles would be really helpful, as I'm thinking a bit more lift than I originally anticipated. If I can get them equal-length, that would be sweet. Also, thanks for posting the pics Ken. Those yellow bushings on the pic I posted, I assume those go to the original highboy cab crossmember? So in essence, I really could build a crossmember with a slight hump and re-use those brackets/bushings, right? Actually, one more question. Should I get the new driveshafts with slip splines (or whatever they're called) built into them? Basically taking the slip from the yokes to the driveshafts. I'm sure my driveline guy would need to know that.

yes on the single cardan slip shafts, the factory ford mount i believe was a big crossmember with a hump in it so i guess you can make something like that.

your output of the trans does not need to be exact to the t-case input, ujoints can handle angle but to have the least chance of vibration you want it to be as straight as possible, mine is actually offset and i have no vibration and i built my own shafts.

its about a 8" shaft and 2" offset

 

[ZacD]

Yeah, keep the output shaft of the transmission and the input shaft of the t-case as close to the same plane as possible to minimize chances of driveline vibration.

Jason, could you speculate where the t-case would be mounted and get an idea of how long each shaft would be based upon that? Just curious.

 

[Jason]

I would like the output of the t-case to be exactley where the rear part of the 2-part shaft meets the two. That way I can re-use the rear section, they just have to add splines to it. Ultimatley, I would love to have equal-length shafts front and rear. With those and 1410's all the way around, things will be that much simpler. I really need to get under there tomorrow and take some pics. I should be picking it up tomorrow afternoon, so I may just jack the thing up there and get at least an idea of where I want it. I was thinking I could possibly even flip a dodge transmission crossmember upside down and use it. Not sure how the tapered ends of the x-member would fit in there. But it seems like it would have enough of a hump to work.

 

[Jason]

Well, the case is completely torn down. Everything looks perfect in it, except the shaft I posted pics of in my buildup. Hopefully I will get the rebuild kit on order this next week, as well as a set of twin stick shift rails. The shifters will have to wait, as I think a custom mount will have to be fabbed. I managed to get the bearing retainer surfaces cleaned/polished, although I'm not sure if they're supposed to be smooth or slightly rough. Anyone have any idea?

I took it down to get media blasted today, but half-way through, the vaccum system stopped working. So it's half clean, half rusted. Paint will have to wait until they get it working again. Looks good so far. I don't see any cracks so far (not that I was expecting any). It looks like I will be making some of my own gaskets as well, seeing as how the shift rail ball plug seals are expensive and not included in the standard rebuild kits. Nothing major. I was just glad to see all the gears/shafts in good shape, as well as the case. Everything else is small and can be addressed on a case-by-case basis. I hope to have it completely rebuilt before the middle of February so the crossmember fab can start. Still have to figure out a locker for the front and get the axle rebuilt, rebuild the drivelines, order the yokes/ujoints and get the hub conversion done. Just in time for the snow to stop. It should be good and broke in by next winter, though.

 

[HeavyChev123]

Does anyone has pics for how they mounted there 4wd shifter for the 205 case?

 

[Hotrodtodd]

all ford divorced 205s are 32 spline, yes you can put the case output in place of the center bearing, that would work just fine.

i have pictures on my other computer, i may have them also on photobucket, i have to look[hr]

here is what i did , it allowed me to bolt to the side and bottom of the frame and be able to run my exhaust, the pass side is pretty much the same, i had to box the end to allow me to adjust the height of the pass side since it is offset

Which transfer case is this. I am needing one for my truck. And wanting to change out front end to newer style with left handed.