Divorce-mount np205

Cool, thanks guys. I found this one locally. Do ALL divorce-mount ford np205's have 32 spline yokes/shafts?

Also Ken, do you have any pics of how yours is mounted up? I will keep searching, but I'm having a hard time finding a custom mount idea.

Well, the guy thinks the running gear is from a '77 ford, so it looks like this has the 32-spline shafts. Yay for me. Hopefully I can go this weekend and pick it up. Plans are to rebuild and inspect it within the next couple of weeks. Once I get a mount made, I will probably take the old shaft from the automatic and have one end shortened down to make the intermediate shaft. It's just sitting in the garage, since I used the shaft from the donor truck for the 5-sp. swap. Plus the other shaft has yokes for 1410's. The only other question I have is, since this truck has a carrier bearing, will I need to keep that with the transfer case setup plans? Or can I ditch it and put the output yoke of the t-case in the exact same spot as the carrier bearing? So that, basically, everything from the carrier-bearing back will be the same. Thoughts???

all ford divorced 205s are 32 spline, yes you can put the case output in place of the center bearing, that would work just fine.

i have pictures on my other computer, i may have them also on photobucket, i have to look[hr]

here is what i did , it allowed me to bolt to the side and bottom of the frame and be able to run my exhaust, the pass side is pretty much the same, i had to box the end to allow me to adjust the height of the pass side since it is offset

Thanks guys. Really makes the decision that much easier. Also if I decide to swap in a bit heavier-duty transmission (and one that parts are more readily available for), it will simply be a matter of transmission mount fabrication. Being as how it has a pilot shaft, do I have to be dead on the money when lining the t-case up to the output of the transmission? Last question, since the t-case uses the yoke-style front output, can I just have a single u-joint on each end, instead of the double cardan style that comes factory on the dodges?

Driveline angles would be really helpful, as I'm thinking a bit more lift than I originally anticipated. If I can get them equal-length, that would be sweet. Also, thanks for posting the pics Ken. Those yellow bushings on the pic I posted, I assume those go to the original highboy cab crossmember? So in essence, I really could build a crossmember with a slight hump and re-use those brackets/bushings, right? Actually, one more question. Should I get the new driveshafts with slip splines (or whatever they're called) built into them? Basically taking the slip from the yokes to the driveshafts. I'm sure my driveline guy would need to know that.

Jason said:

Thanks guys. Really makes the decision that much easier. Also if I decide to swap in a bit heavier-duty transmission (and one that parts are more readily available for), it will simply be a matter of transmission mount fabrication. Being as how it has a pilot shaft, do I have to be dead on the money when lining the t-case up to the output of the transmission? Last question, since the t-case uses the yoke-style front output, can I just have a single u-joint on each end, instead of the double cardan style that comes factory on the dodges?

Driveline angles would be really helpful, as I'm thinking a bit more lift than I originally anticipated. If I can get them equal-length, that would be sweet. Also, thanks for posting the pics Ken. Those yellow bushings on the pic I posted, I assume those go to the original highboy cab crossmember? So in essence, I really could build a crossmember with a slight hump and re-use those brackets/bushings, right? Actually, one more question. Should I get the new driveshafts with slip splines (or whatever they're called) built into them? Basically taking the slip from the yokes to the driveshafts. I'm sure my driveline guy would need to know that.

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yes on the single cardan slip shafts, the factory ford mount i believe was a big crossmember with a hump in it so i guess you can make something like that.

your output of the trans does not need to be exact to the t-case input, ujoints can handle angle but to have the least chance of vibration you want it to be as straight as possible, mine is actually offset and i have no vibration and i built my own shafts.


its about a 8" shaft and 2" offset

Well, the case is completely torn down. Everything looks perfect in it, except the shaft I posted pics of in my buildup. Hopefully I will get the rebuild kit on order this next week, as well as a set of twin stick shift rails. The shifters will have to wait, as I think a custom mount will have to be fabbed. I managed to get the bearing retainer surfaces cleaned/polished, although I'm not sure if they're supposed to be smooth or slightly rough. Anyone have any idea?

I took it down to get media blasted today, but half-way through, the vaccum system stopped working. So it's half clean, half rusted. Paint will have to wait until they get it working again. Looks good so far. I don't see any cracks so far (not that I was expecting any). It looks like I will be making some of my own gaskets as well, seeing as how the shift rail ball plug seals are expensive and not included in the standard rebuild kits. Nothing major. I was just glad to see all the gears/shafts in good shape, as well as the case. Everything else is small and can be addressed on a case-by-case basis. I hope to have it completely rebuilt before the middle of February so the crossmember fab can start. Still have to figure out a locker for the front and get the axle rebuilt, rebuild the drivelines, order the yokes/ujoints and get the hub conversion done. Just in time for the snow to stop. It should be good and broke in by next winter, though.