D35 carrier replacement

2006 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by TrojanYJ, Dec 1, 2005

GeoffSFAs10

Discussion Starter · Nov 29, 2005

Ok so let me make sure i am going to do this right. i have a good understanding of how this works but there is prolley something i have over looked.

The plan
i have a D35 with welded spiders. Buying a D35 for 20 bucks and swapping in the open spiders and carrier from it. plus the spare parts. :bigthumb:

What i know
D35 is a c-clip axle. so i am going to use the spare axle as a practice one til my truck comes back. but heres what i understand. open diff cover and stare. remove drum housing and take the bolt off that is connected to the axle shaft. remove the center pin. push the shafts towards the center slighty and expose the c-clips in the diff housing. pull the c clips and then remove the carrier bearings clip things. from here the shafts slide back out the tubes, and the carrier should fall out. remove the ring gear on it. replace witht he good ring gear. use the shims from the axle in my truck and install this on the new carrier so everything will be the same. replace and make sure good contact is made with the pinion and ring gears. paint pattern them.( ? )reinstall the shafts and put back together. fill with fluid and drive around to make sure it doesnt installing explode.

point out my flaws, problems or anything. please tell me what is wrong. i am trying to turn this into much of a learning experiance as possible.

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guidolyons

· #2 · Nov 29, 2005

What's wrong with the current diff?

You have a pretty good grasp...Remove diff cover, pull the small bolt on the cross pin, remove the cross pin, push in on the axle shaft enough to remove the C-clips and slide the axle shafts out. Mark the carrier bearing caps with a punch and keep all the shims together (I use a zip lock bag for each side so nothing gets mixed up) since you are reusing your ring gear and not changing the pinion depth, it all should go back together and be pretty close the the original specs, use the bearings and races that came with the open diff so the wear patterns on the bearing and races match. If you have trouble getting the carrier out, put a box end wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and rotate the pinion until the ring gear walks it self out. Depending on how many miles it has it might just fall out, but it should be tight, that's what preloads the carrier bearings. Get a dial indicator to check the backlash, should be .006-.010" then double check the pattern with marking compound. If you don't have a dial indicator, you might be able to borrow/rent/buy from an auto parts store. HF tools has them for cheap, too. A micrometer or calipers would be good to measure shims with in case you need to swap a few to get the back lash just right.
Randy's Ring and pinion had a great set of instructions on his website. http://www.ring-pinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf

Hope that helps

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GeoffSFAs10

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 29, 2005

thanks.

nothing is wrong with the current carrier. its just the spiders are welded and its got to the point where its very annoying to drive on the street everyday and i dont wheel the truck as much right now cause of work and school etc etc. so i am changing the truck to met my needs. In my reasoning, it would be easier to just remove the whole carrier and replace the whole thing versus trying to get the welded spiders out.

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TrojanYJ

· #4 · Nov 29, 2005

Why not swap the whole axel?

Seems like 4 U-bolts would be easier than all this regearing business.

Rawr,

--Hardy

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GeoffSFAs10

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 29, 2005

cause my current acle is setup with spring over nad the shock mouns all in place. plus the secoind axle im getting has a blown up pinion gear. :bad:

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guidolyons

· #6 · Dec 1, 2005

On 2005-11-28 20:27, GeoffSFAs10 wrote:
thanks.

nothing is wrong with the current carrier. its just the spiders are welded and its got to the point where its very annoying to drive on the street everyday and i dont wheel the truck as much right now cause of work and school etc etc. so i am changing the truck to met my needs. In my reasoning, it would be easier to just remove the whole carrier and replace the whole thing versus trying to get the welded spiders out.

Makes sense to me... and won't be too bad since he's re-using his gears and not messing with pinion depth, etc. After welding spiders together I doubt you could even go back with out swapping the carrier.

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TrojanYJ

· #7 · Dec 1, 2005

So the donor axel has a blown ring and you think it's a good idea to put the carrier from it in your good axel?

With all those bits of metal flying around when a R/P go out, I wouldn't trust anything in there.

But I'm a silly susy.

--Hardy

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GeoffSFAs10

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 1, 2005

On 2005-11-30 23:24, TrojanYJ wrote:
So the donor axel has a blown ring and you think it's a good idea to put the carrier from it in your good axel?

With all those bits of metal flying around when a R/P go out, I wouldn't trust anything in there.

But I'm a silly susy.

--Hardy :

no the ring is fine. the pinion cracked in the middle. the ring gear, the spiders and the carrier are all in good shape. there is no reason at all not to swap it. its not like you can really drive anywhere when your pinion gear breaks.

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TrojanYJ

· #9 · Dec 1, 2005

Oh, ok. Cool.

--Hardy

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