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I finally got around to replacing the facotry inverted "Y" steering linkage setup on our late model Rams. I bent the stock stuff (both tie rod and draglink) on a trip.

BTW, the stock tie rods, end and draglink are the same size and everything between 1500, 2500 and 3500's.

For those of you that do not know, an inverted "Y design is where the dralink goes from the pitman arm to the passenger knuckle and the tie rod goes from the driver side knuckle to a hole in the draglink.

An inverted "T" design has the tie rod going from knuckle to knuckle and the draglink attaches to the passenger side tierod end.

The tierod ends are GM style and needed to have the tapers in the knuckles "adjusted" a little with a taper ream. The TRE's are a standard GM part number and readily available.

Although I have not aligned it yet, the toe was set with a tape measure and the steering stabilzer is off, bump steer was reduced and negative feedback to the steering wheel is gone. The best part is that the new setup is chrome-moly tubing and straight, without the factory imposed bends of the solid bar. Here are a few pics (none of the entire setup since I parked to close to the garage)







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jason come you left out the most important thing, how much did it cost you? it looks like those ends are bigger than the oems. is that just something you built or did you buy it from somewhere? the only problem it looks like you are going to have is when you align it, are you going to have to pop off the end from the axle and adjust and put it back on?
looks really beefy compared to the stocker though.
 

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The price is $540 installed. A bit of it was labor due to the drilling and such.

Hey, not worried about alignment, thats what the techs are for at the tire shop :grin

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Likes beefy Jason. You gonna test it out this weekend? I think me and a buddy of mine will be out at Prairie City. Hopefully we will get some more rain sometime this week to keep things a lil soggy and challenging out there. Anyhow, just thought I would throw out the invite. If it sounds good to ya, I'll name a time, or you could pick, either way.
 

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hey jason
where did you get that setup from? they only problem about letting the tire shop do the alignment, when i take the truck to the shop i have to do it! the idiots at ntb didnt know how to adjust the front of the dodge.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nick - Its supposed to rain tomorrow so maybe I can get out for a few hours. What day and time?

Shawn - I got the setup from a place called Extreme Gear OffRoad (http://www.extremegearoffroad.com) and yes I actually paid for it. I am running a trial with thier banner to see if I can get them to advertise here. I don't have any problems with the local Big-O or Winston guys doing the alignment. And since the new setup is a lot stronger, I don't think I'll be needing an alignment very often anymore.

BTW, OEM type replacement parts would have totalled $380, the parts for what I had installed were $450. Not a bad price increase to upgrade!
 

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I am gonna go with 1:00 or 2:00 on Saturday, that is assuming that I get my truck out of the damned transmission shop by then. They have had it over a week, just to install a shift kit. Rediculous. I am beginning to think that they are doing more work than they are saying, just to cover their asses. It's all such a long freakin story.
Anyhow, I'll keep you posted on what's goin on and if I can make it. Sorry man. I'll post tomorrow, Thursday, to let you know what's goin on with the Bronco. Aight, I'm outa here. Gotta go to work.
 

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Jason,

How was it to install? Pretty easy? How long did it take you? Any special tools required? I really like that set-up, rather than the stock set-up! :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
TUNIS -

I had the shop do it since the tapered holes for the new TREs were the typical GM shape and they didn't fit the factory holes. It was a minor drilling job though. The tech said it wasn't very bad to do.

I waited at the shop (no ride) from 9:30 to 12:45. They brought in and started at 10 and finished painting the new part at 12:30.

Special tools would be a taper bit with the rigth pitch and stuff and socket set. Puller, air chisel or BFH to get the stockers out.

If figured I'd let the shop drill a part that would be really hard to find or expensive to replace since I don't want to pay for it if I mess it up. I was only charged an hour for labor so it was worth it.
 

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What do u mean I'll leave it up to the Tech's? That means more work for me to do! :): LOL

On some vehicles I hate doing alignments on, but if its someones "toy" I love it because I know the customer respects the toy enough to make it like that.

Looks good Jason, gotta let us know how it works for u.

-Chris
 

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Jason,
I pick up the Bronco tomorrow afternoon, so I should be able to make it on Saturday, 2:00 pm. Gonna talk to my buddy at work tonight. He's drivin a Silverado, 6 in., with 35's. He oughta be able to make it there too. Will make a post tomorrow before I go to work, after I know the Bronco is back and is running well. Hope that's enough time for ya. Anyhow, time to go to work. Later.
 

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Looks sort of like my 1998 2500 front setup but A LOT beefier! I am not sure but I think if I run a straight bar from knuckle to knuckle I think the tie rod will slam againist my Dana 60 diff cover.

Looks good though Jason!!
 

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Hey Jason I am doing the Lukeslinks all the way around this Friday. What do I need a puller for? I have a pickle fork, (I thought that and basic hand tools would be all I would need to take stockers off). If you watched them take the stockers off please give me some tips man, I don't want to run into any problems...Thanks :):
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Foolish -

I didn't get to see them remove the old ones, but I did notice an air operated pickle fork sitting in front the tech when I peeked around the corner.
 

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Sure take the pics, do the write up and insert <filename> where you want the pics you send to go. Make it as short or as long as you want. Include tools needed, materials and time for the header. I will format it all and set it up for the site. Include what credits/byline you want.
 

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the reason for a puller instead of a pickle fork is a puller is a little more forgiving on the tierod and and the hole its going into.(read: your not beating on it with a hammer!)also with a pickle fork you take the risk of tearing a boot that is hard to find to replace it. though im not sure if the luke's link kit supplies new boots or not.
 

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Hey Jason that is similar to the 2500 setup, except my tie rods joints are on top of the steering knuckle but my drag link attaches to the passenger side like yours, also my drop pitman arm is only 1/4" longer than stock but it is tapered the opposite direction so the draglink comes up from the bottom rather than down through the top. It seems if you get that drop pitman arm with the opposite taper on the hole, you would get a little better angle on the linkage.
 

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Hey Biginuf I have a 98 2500 and the tie rod mounts from the bottom of the knucke, maybe I'll try to flip it around to reduce the drag link angle.
 
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