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a week ago my truck went in and had new lifters put in. the other day i noticed my coolant overflow was almost empty so i topped it off. 50 miles later its almost back down to minimum. any ideas? also my oil dipstick is reading above normal. thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Water pump is leaking. It'll be hard to see, as the coolant, will be evaporated when it reaches the hot engin.
I experienced something simular a while back. I kept looking for obvious signs, (puddles) green streaks on the block, but never saw any. My mechanic said that the fluid evaporates before it can be seen easily.
In my case, the fan clutch, water pump and radiator were shot.
The water pump has a "weep" hole I've never seen it, (haven't looked for it either) but others have, and have posted here about it.
 

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You have to pull the heads to put lifters in and they may not have torqued them down properly (either out of sequence or too much/too little) and they are leaking at the gasket or warped. Take it back....
 

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When i first got my 2001 the coolant resovoir level kept going down for about the first 1500 miles,thought it had the infamous intake manifold leak, I topped off the resovoir myself a few times, took it back to the dealer,they said the factory doesnt always get all the air out of the cooling system, that is why the level was going down, refilled the resovoir one more time,have 10k miles now,no level change since.
 

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if you are loosing coolent, and your oil level is going up more than likly your coolent is leaking from the water jackets in the heads. a compression check would be a good start. also, check the exhaust, it could also get into the exhaust and come out of your tail pipes.

i had a busted bypass hose located under the a/c and alternator bracket. once you get there it is easy to change. i could see the coolent leaking tho. there was a pretty good drip that i traced bac to it. look around and either post again or e-mail me your findings.

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96 Dodge Ram 1500 360 w/ auto trans. Extras include JBA headers, K&N filter, Mopar computer, 35,000 lbs trans cooler, shift kit, 3" Skyjacker sysrem, 4.10 gears detriot locker, and 35X12.50 tires on 15X10 rims.
Soon to come 5" skyjacker, Mopat R/T cam and heads.
 

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On 2002-03-23 11:17, JasonB wrote:
You have to pull the heads to put lifters in and they may not have torqued them down properly (either out of sequence or too much/too little) and they are leaking at the gasket or warped. Take it back....

i checked the haynes manual and they clearly show pulling the lifters out with the head still on. from the other motors i have worked on it only need to remove the intake and the valve covers to loosen the rockers to remove the push rods. it said on the v10s you have to remove the heads to get to the back four.
 

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Okay, thanks for clarifying. You know, I have heard stories about pinhole leaks in the coolant recovery bottle along the seams as well.
 

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On 2002-03-23 20:03, JasonB wrote:
Okay, thanks for clarifying. You know, I have heard stories about pinhole leaks in the coolant recovery bottle along the seams as well.

no you just had me worried, i plan on putting in a new cam this spring. i just about s*** when you said i had to remove the heads to get to the lifters! i had to look it up to make sure.
 

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from what i hear, either way you will spnd the same amount of time doing the install. heads off or on will take about the same time... so i have heard.

what cam are you getting? there is a new one out that is much better than the first r/t cam..
 

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i was going to go with the new cam instead of the R/T. BUT i havent heard to many good things about either one of them as far as performance gains. i was gonna give Hughes engines and KRC performance a call and see what they say. im not quite sure how well the R/T cam would do in an overweight 4x4 anyhow. wouldnt we need more of an rv cam instead of more of a racing type cam like the R/T is?
 

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it is set up more for horse power, but it has a little pep to it. i have to do more reserch on them myself.

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96 Dodge Ram 1500 360 w/ auto trans. Extras include JBA headers, K&N filter, Mopar computer, 35,000 lbs trans cooler, shift kit, 3" Skyjacker sysrem, 4.10 gears detriot locker, and 35X12.50 tires on 15X10 rims.
Soon to come 5" skyjacker, Mopat R/T cam and heads.
 

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hey BigGreenMonster, this is what Hughes engines emailed me.




Shawn,
I would start with our Stage 2 Throttle body and our Stage 2
modified intake, and a cold air intake. Use our HER0814al
Camshaft. I would do them in that order. Check out our Magnum
Mods page on our website.
Thanks, Dave

$200 for the cam (a regrind)
$450 for a modified stock intake manifold(they shorten the runners by filling the intake with what looks like that epoxy that hardens to the point where you can run a tap into it)
$295 for the throttle body
so you figure for a $1000 bucks for like 65 hp, not bad really. even more once you add the crane fireball ignition, M.P. pcm, autolite 3923 plugs.
 

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<!-- BBCode u1 Start -->http://www.hughesengines.com/" TARGET="_blank<!-- BBCode u1 End -->

If your oil level is rising, you could be getting coolant in there. does your oil have a milky color to it at all. have your coolant system pressure checked, and check the oil too.
 
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