where are you getting your starters mad? i a$$ume since you say your burning them up it isnt the flywheel right?
Burning Starters up at a fast rate
My little XJ keeps munching up starters and I don't know if it is the brand or what.
As an engine gets older and the rings die, does it make it harder to turn the motor? I would think easier since no rings equals no friction right? :silly:
Anyway, my XJ with the 4.0L is on its like 7th starter in the p;ast year and a half and they are starting to only last for a couple weeks at a time now....getting depressing.
As an engine gets older and the rings die, does it make it harder to turn the motor? I would think easier since no rings equals no friction right? :silly:
Anyway, my XJ with the 4.0L is on its like 7th starter in the p;ast year and a half and they are starting to only last for a couple weeks at a time now....getting depressing.
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have you got a new battery? i've heard that a weak battery can kill starters.
possibly a short or grounding out problem causing the alternator to work a tad harder somewhere in the mess??Cuz that would be some {expletive}ty luck that many bad starters in a year but i guess it could happen anymore these days.
i wouldn't think 7 starters is normal, most of them aren't that bad. what is burning up? just the contacts? they just click and click and turn nothing over? worn rings would make a gas engine start easier, like you said, less compression so it takes less to get things moving. are you going through a lot of water with it?
Not going through any water or anything to destroy them.
I first suspected something electrical...but found various little problems...but nothing has stopped or seemed to affect the starters one way or another.
The first one or two died of the clicking syndrome. Another one litteraly had such a hard time starting my XJ and the Starter itself was like on steriods....it shattered the casting and broke in half. :shock:
The past 4 have suffered from extreme exertion. The little cogs that jump out and grab the flywheel start skipping and grinding....but the teeth on the torque convertor are fine. The little cogs literally get loose....you can't easily spin them by hand when new....but each time I have taken them off after they just started "whirring" the little cogs were completely loose on the shaft and could be flicked with my fingure and spin in either direction!!!!! But they won't slide up and down on the shaft....so they are still attached. When I go to start, the shaft/cog jump out but since the cog is freewheeling, the shaft is the only thing spun by the motor.
However, as weeks go by, each starter begins to take longer and longer to get the motor started and eventually start grinding, skipping, making the XJ jump and convulse before turning into whirring hunks of metal.
So there is something causing a lot of stress so that the little cog/gears become unattached to whatever it is they are attached to on the shaft. :wall:
EDIT: Oh yeah, the vast majority of them have been World Class brand starters that are sold at Advance Auto Parts and Autozones. The first few I found in the junkyard....one was on steriods and would turn the motor over at like 30mph type speeds and the motor would start up in a fraction of a second. There has been literally no similiarities between them, thats how inconsistent they are and I recommend against them. But now the problem is extending to other starters as well. I have had at least 3 or 4 of the new ones from Advance that are World Class and the rest were from junkyards. All the same results.
I first suspected something electrical...but found various little problems...but nothing has stopped or seemed to affect the starters one way or another.
The first one or two died of the clicking syndrome. Another one litteraly had such a hard time starting my XJ and the Starter itself was like on steriods....it shattered the casting and broke in half. :shock:
The past 4 have suffered from extreme exertion. The little cogs that jump out and grab the flywheel start skipping and grinding....but the teeth on the torque convertor are fine. The little cogs literally get loose....you can't easily spin them by hand when new....but each time I have taken them off after they just started "whirring" the little cogs were completely loose on the shaft and could be flicked with my fingure and spin in either direction!!!!! But they won't slide up and down on the shaft....so they are still attached. When I go to start, the shaft/cog jump out but since the cog is freewheeling, the shaft is the only thing spun by the motor.
However, as weeks go by, each starter begins to take longer and longer to get the motor started and eventually start grinding, skipping, making the XJ jump and convulse before turning into whirring hunks of metal.
So there is something causing a lot of stress so that the little cog/gears become unattached to whatever it is they are attached to on the shaft. :wall:
EDIT: Oh yeah, the vast majority of them have been World Class brand starters that are sold at Advance Auto Parts and Autozones. The first few I found in the junkyard....one was on steriods and would turn the motor over at like 30mph type speeds and the motor would start up in a fraction of a second. There has been literally no similiarities between them, thats how inconsistent they are and I recommend against them. But now the problem is extending to other starters as well. I have had at least 3 or 4 of the new ones from Advance that are World Class and the rest were from junkyards. All the same results.
what transmission do you have? is it possible that the parts monkeys are giving you the wrong starter ?
No, its impossible.
Is there something preventing the starter from sitting completely flush in the mount? Maybe the contact between the starter and flywheel isn't straight and is eating the teeth of the starter... ???
Sounds like a alignment problem to me...
If they are dying mechanically, then most likely they are not aligned correctly to the flywheel...or not disengaging the flywheel which can cause a starter to appear as though it has very high miles on it.
Make sure that the starter relay isn't sticking and causing the starter to stay engaged.
steved
If they are dying mechanically, then most likely they are not aligned correctly to the flywheel...or not disengaging the flywheel which can cause a starter to appear as though it has very high miles on it.
Make sure that the starter relay isn't sticking and causing the starter to stay engaged.
steved
would his starters have the solenoids not located on the starter itself? i know on older vehicles the solenoids were on the firewall or something. now the solenoids are on the starters themselves. so if his is bad and not on the starter, it would explain it if the starter stayed engaged the entire time the truck was running.
Ya'll aren't paying attention.
The teeth on the starter are fine. The teeth on the torque convertor are mostly fine....you can tell in a few spots where the messed up starter polised the edges of the TC teeth. The starters do just fine, no alignment issues...they just steadily get slower and more incapacitated and worn out and finally break.
The teeth on the starter are fine. The teeth on the torque convertor are mostly fine....you can tell in a few spots where the messed up starter polised the edges of the TC teeth. The starters do just fine, no alignment issues...they just steadily get slower and more incapacitated and worn out and finally break.
if the flywheel is fine, no teeth busted, the starter is fine, no teeth busted, and what you are saying is that its just losing power, i have no clue. i see what you mean by you can spin it by hand after it dies...almost like an engine that has no compression is more easily turned than say a diesel engine. only thing i can think of is the heat is killing it? have you tried a starter blanket? does the engine have headers?
check the solenoid.. if the solenoid is causin the the plunger to stick out and stay meshed and the overrunnign clutch is caught or busted it will destroy the starter motor from the high rpm's it goes through when the engine finally runs...
get a DMM and check the solenoid...i think that is probabbly your problem..but i could be wrong
HTH
Kraemer
get a DMM and check the solenoid...i think that is probabbly your problem..but i could be wrong
HTH
Kraemer
check your grounds first off cause that will burn a starter up pretty quickly..
then have someone crank it over while you check for the voltage and ampage at the starter itself... unhook the ignition or fuel pump relay so it dont start while you try this.. if for some reason you have to much ampage to it that will fry it .. i have seen a bad battery kill starters and alternators befor
then have someone crank it over while you check for the voltage and ampage at the starter itself... unhook the ignition or fuel pump relay so it dont start while you try this.. if for some reason you have to much ampage to it that will fry it .. i have seen a bad battery kill starters and alternators befor
It doesn't get hot and it wouldn't matter if there were headers...remember, this is a 4.0L.
The grounds are just fine, but I will check the amperage...maybe it is the battery causing the problems. But then again, it has had different batteries through this Starter Holocaust.
It can't be the solenoids....because it has been like this for like 7 starters and not all the same brand.
The grounds are just fine, but I will check the amperage...maybe it is the battery causing the problems. But then again, it has had different batteries through this Starter Holocaust.
It can't be the solenoids....because it has been like this for like 7 starters and not all the same brand.
i'd find a gremlin trap and wire it up near the starter and see if one shows up in it. :dunno:
if you pull one of the "slow" starters, does it spin up slow or fast when its removed?
have they all started nice in teh beginning and slowing down over time, or do some jsut suck from the get-go?
have they all started nice in teh beginning and slowing down over time, or do some jsut suck from the get-go?
They all start out fine and draw down eventually.
the onyl thing i can think of is that the amperage is not there that needs to be there and the motors are working extra hard and burning out the brushes over time? Are the cables in good shape enough to deliver the proper amps?
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