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Discussion Starter #1
im collecting parts for my new air horn setup for the nnew truck. this time around im using a Hadley (25in long, 6in bell) :naughty: mounted under the passenger side door between the frame and body. changing out my pressure switch from a 90/115 to 110/145. i also got a GC Xtreme solenoid(shown below), much larger and riggid than the 1/4in chrome one i bought from a truck stop.

question is, does upping the ID of the air line to 1/2" and using the larger valve(5/8" orifice) going to make the horn louder? or am i just wasting my time?

i really want to wake the dead this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
compressor and tank in toolbox. i have plenty of air, so im not worried about draining the system.
 

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Bigger dia hose will allow more volumn of air to move. Now, to truly "wake the dead" you need to get a train horn! You'll need the larger hose to run one of them. Do a search and you'll find a few post regarding train horns.
I have one, sadly I havn't installed it yet. :bluecry:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ill do a search and see what the verdict is with train horns.

i wouldnt mind a train horn. but the hadley is sitting in the garage. it hurts my ears to use it with the compressor. figured that should be good enough.

now the horn only has a 1/8 npt port. even though the line/solenoid will move a greater volume, is it all sacrificed due to the horns port? would it be wise to try and drill and tapit out to a larger dia hole. or leave it as it?

*edit*

well after a little searching. i saw most poeple are only using the line that came with the kit, 1/4". with horns considerbly bigger than what im going to run. when looking on hornblasters website i saw that all of their tanks come with 1/2 npt ports. but, only the kits over $1500 came with 1/2" line. all others were 1/4".

with that said. still think it would be worth while to drill out the horn port to move a larger amount of air. or would i be hurting myself since it wont be "forced" into the horn when going from a larger line to smaller port? i need to take physics.
 

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I think the horn will perform as it's supposed to if you leave the 1/8" port alone. Thats how it was designed. If you tamper with it you may change the tone or note of the blast. The horn operates by a thin tin plate that (diaphram) that vibrates as air is blown over it surface. You might blow out (rip open) the diaphram if you open the 1/8"npt. The port that directs the air over the diaphram is tiny maybe 1/8" (something like that) I know this cuz I took my horn apart after munching it into a tree, and crunching the "sound chamber" I rebuilt the horn with parts from another I had and it hasn't sounded right since. Why I bought my train horn.
I think if you plumb your new air valve as close to the horn as possible, and have 1/2" line supplying the air valve, your horn will have plenty of supply air to operate it loudly!

Troy
 

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:withstupid: im thinking if your pushing in to much air, it might hurt the diaphrams and make it sound worse! my horn is plenty loud with only 1/4" line going to it.

i looked in bigger lines, but it wouldnt have worked on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ill leave the horn alone. just got to cut the 'mack' cover off the front of it. thanks for the help. i plan on having the solenoid as close as possible to the horn. too bad they dont make a 1/2 to 1/8 brass adapter, lol. when i get it all plumbed up and working ill take pics and tell yall how it turns out. im going to weld some flat bar to the frame to support the horn. i dont need it stolen/ripped off.
 

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On 2007-11-28 16:43, RamAford wrote:
:withstupid: im thinking if your pushing in to much air, it might hurt the diaphrams and make it sound worse! my horn is plenty loud with only 1/4" line going to it.

i looked in bigger lines, but it wouldnt have worked on mine.

he is right, too much air can damage a horn, just try increasing air pressure a little at a time.
 

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"too bad they dont make a 1/2 to 1/8 brass adapter"
Well, not in one peice anyhow, it'll look like &^%$ but you can adapt down with sleevs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
On 2007-12-04 11:03, jprtroy wrote:
"too bad they dont make a 1/2 to 1/8 brass adapter"
Well, not in one peice anyhow, it'll look like &^%$ but you can adapt down with sleevs.

thats what i was inferring. had to do the same thing with the last setup i had.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
been bust over the break. finally got the horn mounted up. i got to wire the compressor and plumb the airlines now. should have it all done buy noon.

i mounted it up high to protect it. and you cant see it unless you crawl down and look underneath the truck.

ill report back on how well the 1/2" airline and valve work. i like this much better than my old setup. hurts my ears to honk it :naughty:
 

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Looks like a clean install! :bigthumb:
 

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Thanks. soon as i got it all wired up and ready to roll... the compressor threw a rod. Motor still runs like a champ. so i took it down and JB welded it back together. im letting it cure for 24hr then ill report back on how it does.
 

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MAn i have to hear an update on how the jb held on the compressor rod!!
 

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Im guessing the horn is facing forward? I would be worried about mud/water getting in it.

ive got my horns angled backwards from my gooseneck hitch and down a little bit. but if i do get any water in them while washing the truck and under it, a few blows and they start sounding normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
well the JB weld held for about 2 days. im looking for another MF50 compressor,without any luck. im impressed how long it last for $50. the piston itself didnt break. the bearing basically wallered out so it wont spin/move the piston anymore.

anyways. yeah its pointing foward. but its under the passenger rear door. and you forget, my truck is 2wd. no mud for me.
 

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looks good, I dont see the point in running a bigger hose if ur just gunna run the same port... you cant run 1/2" of air through 1/8" inches at the same PSI... if you understand what I mean lol... seems like a lot of work, for basically nothing, why not get a compressor from hornblasters... personally i would try mounting it under the tool box. that would be a loud bitch lol... reverbs off the cab & bed... not to mension less hose = more psi & flow = louder lol.

next step up 4 u should be a k3la. lol and a bigger tank...
 

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not to hijack this but ive got train horns, electric valves, manual valves, air lines, fittings, and all that jazz. 3 trumpet horns and 5 trumpet horns.

and bigger line = better. i put a lot of these kits in. if youve got the big valve run the bigger line. and if you need a compressor let me know, ive got those too.
 

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im collecting parts for my new air horn setup for the nnew truck. this time around im using a Hadley (25in long, 6in bell) :naughty: mounted under the passenger side door between the frame and body. changing out my pressure switch from a 90/115 to 110/145. i also got a GC Xtreme solenoid(shown below), much larger and riggid than the 1/4in chrome one i bought from a truck stop.


question is, does upping the ID of the air line to 1/2" and using the larger valve(5/8" orifice) going to make the horn louder? or am i just wasting my time?


i really want to wake the dead this time around.
You want 150psi to sound off train horns for the best sound, 1/2" air line and solenoid valve is needed for true train horns to work on properly. I run there Nathan's AirChime P3's
22868
 
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