amp help!

1540 Views 19 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Identity Crisis, Dec 8, 2005

Identity Crisis

Discussion Starter · Dec 6, 2005

Okay, I ran an 800-watt kenwood amp and a 600-watt kenwood amp in my truck, along with extra lights, etc, with no problem, but now I've got the same 800-watt kenwood amp by itself to push my two 10"s in my car and every time I turn the stereo up more than half way the dash lights and headlights dim noticably and pulse to the beat! Will a capacitor take care of this? If so, how big of one?

Honestly, please reply only if you know what you're talking about and it directly applies to my situation. Thanks.

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steved

· #2 · Dec 6, 2005

Your truck most likely had a better charging system and better/big battery.

A cap will only smooth the pulses out...it will still pull more juice than you are currently able to make by the sounds of things.

Most likely need a better battery at least and most likely a bigger alternator...might try increasing the wire size from the alt to the battery to see if that is acting like a "choke" point.

steved

Identity Crisis

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 6, 2005

that seems to be the general concensus i've heard so far, but others have said to try the cap first since it's cheap and then upgrade the alternator and battery if i'm still having a problem.

SG

· #4 · Dec 6, 2005

I agree with steve - I run 2 caps and an Exide Orbital battery to my system (1 JL 300/2 (150X2) and 1 PG 1200.1 (1000W))and if you crank it, the lights will still dim. But i just have to live with it because I do not want to upgrade my alt.

The general rule with caps is 1 farad for every 1000W.

UrbanRedneck

· #5 · Dec 6, 2005

Like Steve said, the truck probably had a much stronger charging system sie it is meant for towing and everything. I'd first check to make sure you have a good ground for the amp, because that could cause the problem. A cap will help, it will smooth the pulses out and help keep a stable voltage to the amp. But it depends how bad it is. You might need to upgrade the charging system. I'd say probably get a cap first, then if it's still bad do the battery (Optima Yellow or Red top) next. Alternator would be last I think. But as far as a cap goes, if it's just the one 800 watt kenwood bass amp you can just use one cap, 1 fahrad ought do. Some companies make like 1.2-1.5 fahrad, so that might be better.

K5Chris

· #6 · Dec 7, 2005

you dont need a capacitor.
1st - upgrade the wiring from battery to alternator, and battery to chasis ground and engine block.
2nd - get a bigger alternator
a bigger battery won't do {expletive} without a decent alternator.
3rd- battery if yours is insuffecient.

Robert97dodge

· #7 · Dec 7, 2005

On 2005-12-06 20:29, K5Chris wrote:
you dont need a capacitor.
1st - upgrade the wiring from battery to alternator, and battery to chasis ground and engine block.
2nd - get a bigger alternator
a bigger battery won't do {expletive} without a decent alternator.
3rd- battery if yours is insuffecient.

WHat is the need to upgrading the ground wire to the engine block??

K5Chris

· #8 · Dec 7, 2005

On 2005-12-06 20:44, Robert97dodge wrote:

WHat is the need to upgrading the ground wire to the engine block??

where do you think your alternator gets it's ground?

Robert97dodge

· #9 · Dec 7, 2005

On 2005-12-06 20:51, K5Chris wrote:

where do you think your alternator gets it's ground?

Oh ok. I guess that you arent talking about those little lines that go from the fire wall to the back of the motor? On my truck there are some small wires going from the firewall to the back bolt of the valve cover and then the wire goes farther down to something else on the back of the motor. IS that the wire you are talking about? It is only about a 10-12 guage wire.

K5Chris

· #10 · Dec 7, 2005

most alternators have a wiring connector with small wires for regulator control and what not. then, they have a bolt with a single larger wire which is the main output that goes to the battery. thats where you want to connect your upgraded wire.

do not remove your factory wiring, just add what your gonna add, and leave whats there alone. depending on how many accessories your running, you can run anywhere from 8 gauge to 00 gauge. might check welding supply stores for welding cable, that seems to work well.

p.s. - the wiring upgrade does not always 'cure' the problem, but it definatly helps alot, and is definately a good idea anyways if you're running alot of high-current components.

Robert97dodge

· #11 · Dec 7, 2005

On 2005-12-06 21:12, K5Chris wrote:
most alternators have a wiring connector with small wires for regulator control and what not. then, they have a bolt with a single larger wire which is the main output that goes to the battery. thats where you want to connect your upgraded wire.

do not remove your factory wiring, just add what your gonna add, and leave whats there alone. depending on how many accessories your running, you can run anywhere from 8 gauge to 00 gauge. might check welding supply stores for welding cable, that seems to work well.

p.s. - the wiring upgrade does not always 'cure' the problem, but it definatly helps alot, and is definately a good idea anyways if you're running alot of high-current components.

I just ordered some 4 guage wire that you would use to run to amp to run to my 2nd battery that I am about to install. Would that stuff work to run to that alt?

K5Chris

· #12 · Dec 7, 2005

sure

you just wiring your batteries in parallel? what kinda batteries are you gonna run?

Robert97dodge

· #13 · Dec 7, 2005

On 2005-12-06 21:32, K5Chris wrote:
sure

you just wiring your batteries in parallel? what kinda batteries are you gonna run?

Yes parallel. I already have a optima red top so I just picked up another one of those.

K5Chris

· #14 · Dec 7, 2005

i was gonna do the same, i just installed one red top. but, im thinking of going with an isolator and a yellow top instead of 2 red tops.

Identity Crisis

Discussion Starter · #15 · Dec 7, 2005

thanks, everyone. I've been getting mixed responses on this, so Ithink I'm going to try the capacitor first 9even though I know it's just a band-aid for the problem) and see if that cures it. Since it's the cheapest option I'll start there. If not, I'll either get a new alternator or have the stock one rebuilt and beefed up and get some new, heavier wiring. thanks all.

MarkC

· #16 · Dec 7, 2005

hey caps are only good for a little power, I added another battery to my truck next to the amp so when I want the punch for a while it lasted longer. I also have two already under the hood for my lights and other electronic stuff. If I was you I would just get a small sealed battery from a stereo store and link it you will get better response....

Biggy D

· #17 · Dec 7, 2005

Try going to the forums at caraudio.com, theres a lot of people that know everything about this stuff.

Identity Crisis

Discussion Starter · #18 · Dec 7, 2005

On 2005-12-07 05:03, Biggy D wrote:
Try going to the forums at caraudio.com, theres a lot of people that know everything about this stuff.

thanks, good call. They have a wire upgrade there with pics and everything that looks pretty simple and not too expensive. I'm going to try that instead of/or in addition to the cap and see how it works.

K5Chris

· #19 · Dec 8, 2005

On 2005-12-07 06:24, Identity Crisis wrote:

thanks, good call. They have a wire upgrade there with pics and everything that looks pretty simple and not too expensive. I'm going to try that instead of/or in addition to the cap and see how it works.

pretty much what i suggested. :flipoff:

Identity Crisis

Discussion Starter · #20 · Dec 8, 2005

yes, you did. mad props to you, my brutha from anotha mutha. :bigthumb:

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