a few more inches??
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1,272 Posts
ross just get a damn suspension lift already
By cranking on the torsion bars, you arent making the suspension stiffer. you are only raising the point that it sits at. teh only way to make a torsion bar suspension stiffer is to change to a larger bar. yes you will lose articulation, but that is only because you are extending the suspension. you are making it closer to the bump stops. you will have awesome "up" travel, but nothing for the "down". the spring rate of the bars are set by the manufacturer. cranking on the bolts is like adding a coil spacer. just lifting the point that it sits at.
You want articulation? Torch out the IFS and swap in a straight axle. IFS does not articulate.
You have to bite the bullet and install a lift. Cranking the torsion bars is just a hacker way of doing it. You lose downtravel, screw up the alignment, and it makes the ride stiffer.
_________________
97 Grand Cherokee TSi
4.0L Quadra-Trac
2" spacer lift
245/75R16 Cooper Discoverer S/T's
RE adjustable front track bar, OME SD40
Mopar skids and hooks
Member# 666!!
You have to bite the bullet and install a lift. Cranking the torsion bars is just a hacker way of doing it. You lose downtravel, screw up the alignment, and it makes the ride stiffer.
_________________
97 Grand Cherokee TSi
4.0L Quadra-Trac
2" spacer lift
245/75R16 Cooper Discoverer S/T's
RE adjustable front track bar, OME SD40
Mopar skids and hooks
Member# 666!!
Joined
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1,272 Posts
yeah so basically..what they are saying..is go buy a suspension lift
Joined
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1,272 Posts
ok so go buy a suspension lift and you never gonna do ne thing after that...and where is 79W-40 dude he edits all my stuff out wheres the ( censored due to bad language) crap in here????
even a suspension lift wont buy you much articulation.you have to remeber when the suspension rebounds after the bump that there is a lot of stress on you cv shafts.there is a kit that replaces the shafts and has a external spline that keeps you from pulling the shaft apart.
for real articulation use a straight axle.im not sure if you truck has coils spring pockets up front like a 2wheel drive but if it does a ford 73-79 is dam near a bolt in deal.
for real articulation use a straight axle.im not sure if you truck has coils spring pockets up front like a 2wheel drive but if it does a ford 73-79 is dam near a bolt in deal.
I'm in the same boat. I have an IFS chevy with a 3 inch body lift and 33/12.5 tires, and I just want a bit more lift. I'm only 17, still in school, and can barely afford gas, haha. so a big 6" suspension lift isn't really an option. However, I've decided that biting the bullet is the thing to do. Don't bother with trying to play around with your torsion bars, it'll just brink you more problems and you won't be content. Superlift offers a 2.5 inch lift for the front only($433), Skyjacker offers a 2" lift ($299), and Rough Country has a 2-3" lift too($610). Rancho also makes a 2-3" lift for about $800. Good luck
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63 Posts
As far as cranking up the torson bars the ride did get worse but mainly when the truck hits a dip because you have no down travel. A friend of mine bought the rancho 2-3" kit and hates it. It puts extreme angles on your lower control arms and steering components and if your torson bars have got weaker over the years you may not be able to get the full 3" out of the kit. Every 4x4 shop I have talked to says that the 2-3" kits are inferior. Crank up your bars and save your money for a real suspension lift that drops you lower control arms.
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46 Posts
you can get 3 inches out of your t/bars. I would only recommend cranking 2 inches though. :bigthumb: this is what i did to my 90'Z-71 and i don't have any problem on or off-road not considering the rougher ride but even if you get a suspension lift it will still be rough. :confused2:
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