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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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First off, I have been around on this site for about 10 years. I was having problems logging in with my old account. This is an 83 k20 I bought running and driving for 800 bucks about 2 months ago. I run a business and work on it every spare minute I have (which isn’t many) lol but here’s what I have done so far. This is day 1
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
That’s all I got for you guys right now. Work in progress. My vortec heads are at the machine shop getting done and I just got the bed on yesterday. As you can see I’ve got more body work to do and a couple weeks on cylinder heads. Plan is to get the rest of the body work done, drop the engine back in and then paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update for whoever is following lol doesn’t seem like there’s as many guys on this page as there used to be. Anyway @RootBreaker here’s a few new pics. The engine is a 4 bolt 350. Vortec headed machined for 2.02/1.6 valves and a little shaved off the bottom. It should be around 9.5:1 compression. The cam I chose was based on a 370 ish horse blue print that I took up a notch so I’m hoping for 400 horse. It is a 303 duration with 490/490 lift.

Also scored a 14 bolt full floater at the salvage yard out of a 95 1 ton. Made perches for it and got it in the truck. It is sitting on 8 inches of lift
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On engine masters they took a stock vortec 350 with just a 280 cam and vortec heads, got 370 ish horsepower. Mine are oversized valves, slightly decked and an even bigger cam so that’s where I’m pulling my estimated numbers from. The vortec heads flow pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Although this is not the preferred method I am needing advice on stopping the rust at the bed wheel well from spreading. It is not very bad and I plan on covering it with fender flares....but I need to make sure it won’t spread. Advice anybody? No I’m
Not welding more panels on the truck lol so don’t even suggest it.
 
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