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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a 1995 GMC Yukon 2dr. was in the process of driving it home when the tranny case cracked just behind the pan. The only thing I felt in the hour or so I had driven it was a vibration when I let off the gas that was gone as soon as I accelerated. Luckily my wife had followed me and alerted me of the fluid covering her windsheild. The mechanic I first talked to wanted to blame the pro-comp lift. I'm not sure how much of a lift it has, but it's running 35's with good clearance. The drive shaft doesn't look terribly bound or extremely angled to me, but I'm no pro. The only thing that seems a little off is I can wiggle the trasfer case/rear driveline up and down an inch or so with a little effort. Is this normal? This tranny that's in it now looks new to me, it's definately clean and metallic compared to the rest of the stuff down there. I'm looking at a pretty hefty repair on a vehicle I've owned less than 48 hours.... how do I prevent this in the future? Any ideas on what to investigate as the cause? Also it seems like there should be some mounts or supports other than the single one on the cross member, are there? or does the transfer case just kinda hang there like that?

Thanks to all in advance..
 
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it shouldnt move so it sounds like a bearing on the t-case has gone terribly wrong, there is no other support for the t-case and the lift will only effect the t-case if its binding, it should break that before it does anything to the tranny, my guess would be something in the tranny broke due to either a cheap rebuild or faulty parts, the 4l60e is fairly strong i got 180,000 beat miles on mine before i lost 2nd gear
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice, I'm not sure what to think at this point. It drove and shifted fine (and still would if I could keep fluid in it) Is it possible to have a failure with something right at the point where the input shaft attaches? (I guess that's what that is between the tranny case and trasfer case) It's a hairline crack that goes as far around as I can see, and when the vehicle is turned on gushes out like a garden hose. Is it normal to have that much presure there? Sorry to bother it just doesn't seem as cut and dry as a catastrophic failure in the tranny itself... but what the hell do I know, that's why I'm asking you guys :): The vibration really seems the culprit. Also you can see orange RTV where the transfer case has been off at some point recently.

BTW would you guys recommend having them put my guts in a salvage case? If so are there any options other than cast aluminum without loosing the electronic shift?
Here are some pics of it the seller sent to me before I bought it, any ideas on how much lift this is?

Thanks





 
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if it cracked at that point, i would say it was something internal in the trans that caused it, since its supported by the trans mount on the extension housing and that truck is hardly lifted(compaired to others with much more lift and no issues), and really doesnt have the torque to just break it like that

looks like you just were unlucky enough to buy someone elses headache


my guess would be they used the stock weak 4 pinion planetairies and it blew up(common issue for the 4l60e and was fixed in newer ones)
 
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i wouldn't use the guts from that tranny unless theres some useable upgrade parts in it, but if it was a planetairy issue then chances are that it was rebuilt with standard parts and nothing like better sprags the newer 5 pinion planetairies and the 13 vane pump or the beast sunshell or even better clutches/kolene steels..etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks man, I guess we'll find out tomorrow when they open it up.

If anyone has a rebuilt one in central TX please post, this guys quoting me like $1800 for a rebuild w/ install. If I could find one reasonable, it would save a lot.
 
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thats a good price if its got the upgraded stuff, mine was 1700 and i just dropped the trans off and installed it myself and it had every option i could get except i didnt use the kevlar band, i just went with the wide alto band since it really didnt pay to use the kevlar one when my truck shouldnt be able to burn up the alto wide one

basically mine is now a built 4l65e, the only thing better would be to swap to a 4l80e and buld that but its too much work/money to justify that
 

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Just throwin this out as an idea, but how are the motor mounts? Might also explain the vibration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's at the shop now, that was something they mentioned along with rear end alignment, driveshaft alignment, U-joints and tranny mounts.

Thanks for the input, I apprecite it.

BTW I had something mentioned to me about a bar going from the bell housing to the transfer case being missing, but the guy wasn't sure if they had those in 95. Does any one have a 95 Z71 and know if it's there or not?
 
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they never had any bar there, there is 2 bars going from the motor mounts on the block to the tranny on the torque converter cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well they got the tranny out and torn down, everything looks good internally. They are going to put my guts into a new case and add the kevlar wide bands, steel valve sleeves and valves, a 5 spline planetary (sp?) and a shift kit. He also said the shaft angle, mounts (motor and tranny) and the U-joints look fine. He's going to tear the transfer case down tomorrow. He said the only other thing he knows to check is the alignment on the rear end and make sure it's tracking correctly. He also said he's seen this on a few SWB and Tahoes/Yukons, and talked as if it were fairly common especially if it has any lift at all. Has any one else heard of this?
Also has any one ever heard of an after market transfer case bracket?
 
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ive never heard of a swb causing that issue, but it does make some sense if it is on a highly lifted truck

the steeper the angle on the rear driveshaft the harder it is for the slip yoke to slide in the tranny under compression, and that would make it want to push the t-case up instead of slipping the yoke in, thus the good idea of a slip yoke eliminator kit

i have 13" lift on my truck but its a extended cab and it doesnt have that issue, but i could understand it as a problem on a reg cab short box or a tahoe/yukon with the short wheelbase
 

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i posted this somewhere else, Strickers auto parts in Owensville ohio might have one, my uncle bought a brand new one still in the crate for like m700 bucks or something, Strickers bought like 200 of these from a insurace company, they was in a train wreck, nothin wrong with them, GM just didnt want them.
 

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Im having this same issue on a 1997 gmc k1500 single cab 6.5 foot bed! truck is stock with t bars slightly cranked SLIGHTLY. gone through 3 trans now and all crack on top in the same spot.


this is from drive side i was hoping jb-weld would stop it.... i was wrong any help is appreciated!!!
22871
 

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I'm having the same problem 96 Tahoe 2dr.4x4 . any body figure this out?
Out of this topic I got
Check motor mounts and tranny mounts
Check transfer case for loose
Check drive shaft and balanced
Are there suppose to be support bar to the tranny or not ?
Lift kit giving drive shaft to much angle and it has the yoke pushing up not slidding in and out .
That yoke slip eliminate kit ? Or whatever it was called .
Please, have I missed anything and if anybody has some good news on this problem .
 

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Im having this same issue on a 1997 gmc k1500 single cab 6.5 foot bed! truck is stock with t bars slightly cranked SLIGHTLY. gone through 3 trans now and all crack on top in the same spot.


this is from drive side i was hoping jb-weld would stop it.... i was wrong any help is appreciated!!! View attachment 22871
I have the exact same problem. I just bought a 97 k1500 extended cab. Rear of transmission snapped under normal driving. Getting ready to pull out the transmission this weekend
 

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I have the exact same problem. I just bought a 97 k1500 extended cab. Rear of transmission snapped under normal driving. Getting ready to pull out the transmission this weekend
You got bad u joints on your driveshaft. So does the other guy that went through 3 transmissions with the crack on top. Ten dollar fix.

EDIT:
I would like to add that if the u joints have been replaced already, then they were done wrong. If they're not loose, then they're probably too tight. The u joint should move freely, without resistance, and with no play at all. If you don't have experience with these, then you can't check them reliably. I have installed HUNDREDs of 4L60Es and I promise you if all the bolts are tight, and the transmission is cracking (especially at the transfer case adapter), then the problem lies with the driveshaft. Some of you may need a SYE, especially with the big dumb lifts. Good luck and god bless
 

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You got bad u joints on your driveshaft. So does the other guy that went through 3 transmissions with the crack on top. Ten dollar fix.
Hopefully that is all it was. An yes the u joints was in bad shape. Now the fun part of trying to find a good replacement transmission
 
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