It will probably bolt in. Dont think they changed teh axle width. Once issue you have do is add a vent to the axle since the vent is in the CAD unit.
It wouldnt cost more jsut to upgrade to the 35 spline inners. I was quoted 300 for a complete set of 35 spline inners
And going with HP 60, he is going to get smaller axle shaft(bigger spline, but necks down smaller than the Dodge)smaller outer shafts(diameter and splines) and slightly smaller axle tubes. Also you are limited on gears for a HP 60. Lowest you can go is 5:38
Plus if you are going to a king pinned 60, you will have even more issues with coil bucket placement. As little of a lift as he runs, he doesnt really need the HP. Alot cheaper adding an set of beefer shafts, new side gears and maybe an axle truss, than the cost of putting in a HP 60. Been there done that, not worth the cost
You should be able to find a seal that will work without having to replace the axle tube. On my D44 I have a one piece shaft. I have a seal right beside the carier and a block off plate over the hole where the CAD was. My vent tube has been moved.
On 2005-11-26 11:15, v10sport wrote:
He will because you need to add an axle seal in the right side of the housing. Once the seal is there, no fluid can enter the tube unlike when the CAD seal was there
I think. So the gist is it doesn't seal where the stock CAD is, like say a Dynatrac one does? That was the whole point, I was hoping to grab the shaft as an a$$embly to carry as a spare incasre I break the inner or the CAD unit itselt, but If I have to repace the seal then its a PITA.
Not seeing how its cheaper to do 35 splines? I'll have to throw awy my 32 spline ARB and my 32 spline alloy short side. Besides, with the 33 spline outers, I'm doubting the longside inner is weak spot? Never broke a long side inner with my 44 and I broke 8-10 axleshafts and u-joints. and a knuckle. and other stuff.
Why waste my time with a Ford HP 60? For the cost of that, I can do something strong. ($100-$1500 for the axle, $500 or more to have it competently bracketed, probably $1000 after all the re-works, have to redo steering, $500-$750 just to get decent shafts in it, then $200 for slugs, $700 for an ARB, $200 for another set of gears, $500 for setup..... sounds like a pricey fix for something that currently is only a minor nuisance (knock on wood, no failures in the 60 yet, the posi-lok just is pain to engage)
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