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Sliding stock fuel plate forward CTD

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech' started by GotSmoke, Jan 8, 2004.


  1. GotSmoke

    GotSmoke
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    I've been planning on sliding the stock fuel plate full forward in my 96 CTD. I know a few of ya have done it and im just curious how much of a power gain it will actually give me. Thanks











    Jeff
     

  2. jkgdiesel

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    :withstupid:

    Yeah, Iv'e been pondering this as well. I too would like to know how much of a power gain one can get out of just budging it forward a bit. It can't be that much but I am sure it is enough to give a noticeable difference.
     

  3. bowtie_guy

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    I'd imagine if you also helped with the intake (more air) you would notice something. If you don't help intake and exhaust then maybe a bit but get some nice black soot comming out the pipe.
     
  4. jkgdiesel

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    I've already taken care of the air issue, that Banks Twin Ram manifold flows a bunch more air than the stock single ram. I think I should be able to move the plate all the way forward and get all kinds of power, but how much?? :dunno: One only knows.
     
  5. Lance

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    I did it, it didn't do as much as I thought, I also pinched off the boost line to the wastegate, and it used to be 18 PSI stock, and now it goes almost to 30psi. I read somewhere on DTR or TDR that you can even take the plate out and control the fuel curve with your right foot, some people said its a bad Idea, and others said they had it like that for 100,000 miles with no problems.
     
  6. FireRescue

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    I would not recommend removing the fuel plate. You can run a flat plate that is basically a rack stop so as not to damage the pump.



    HP from sliding the plate depends on a few things. What pump the truck has and other mods. On a stock 1996 with the stock 180 pump sliding the plate will yield around 15-20HP. On a 215 pump 1n a 1996 manual transmisison truck sliding the plate will yield more HP.



    jgk,

    I would imagine on your truck sliding the plate will yield a few more HP than 15-20.



    EGT's will increase so if you do any heavy towing and do not have an EGT gauge I would not recommend sliding the plate.



    Personally I prefer an aftermarket cam plate vs. sliding a stock plate. It has more affect on the drivability and HP of the truck. I run my aftermarket plate full forward :D:
     
  7. jkgdiesel

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    Yeah, I have a EGT gauge, so covered there.



    FireRescue, what else did you do to the pump besides moving the plate all the way forward?? I know you probably mentioned this in the old forum of "Turning up the fuel", but I thought I would ask again. Is your boost line pinched off as well? Can't be sure but isn't pinching that line off potentally dangerous for the life of the turbo??
     
  8. FireRescue

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    I have advanced the timing, adjusted the AFC star wheel and installed an AFC spring kit, installed high flow delivery valves, installed a TST plate full forward, adjusted the governor lever, and installed a 3k Governor Spring Kit. Nothing real special. I would like to take it off an have some real pump work done. Maybe someday :D:



    For the governor lever adjustment check Piers Diesel Research here: http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm



    My boost line isn't pinched. I have too much fuel to not wastegate the turbo because, as you alluded to, there is a limit to the boost pressure of a turbo. An HX35 in stock trim should be limited to 36-38 psi of boost. Beyond that the turbo has exceeded it's efficiency range and you are doing nothing but moving hot air. You could actually increase the EGT's by exceeding the efficiency range of a turbo. Not to mention you also risk damage of the turbo although the HX35 is pretty durable beyond that. You can run low to mid 40's for boost on the 35 without too much worry of blowing it up, not that I would recommend this :D: Some other turbos, like the HX40, should definitely not be run out of their efficiency range as they are not quite as stable as the HX35.
     
  9. jkgdiesel

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    Man, I wonder if I have a boost leak, cuz I heard that those turbos will put out a max of 22 psi with all the OEM stuff on the engine and turbo. I never hooked up my boost gauge while it was stock but when I pin it going up a hill in 4th or 5th gear, the highest boost I have seen on my gauge is like 36 psi. I haven't asked Banks what I should be seeing, but I think I am going to now, this is making me curious.

    Also, which way did you turn your AFC star wheel and how many turns are recommended? I know it controls the pre-boost fuel but can you turn the wheel too much with the plate all the way forward and cause problems??
     
  10. Got Smoke?

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    Considering its nearly 2am I'm just gonna state some facts then I'll come back tomorrow and re-read this and make a more detailed reply.



    Sliding the plate from center to full forward on a 5spd truck will net you 40HP @ the rear wheels. I've seen it dyno proven! Check my sig as well!



    HOWEVER! I do NOT advise sliding the plate without a Exhaust Gas Temp. gauge PRE-turbo.



    JKG....your banks twin ram may flow more air....but your still limited to your restrictive air box if you haven't upgraded to something like a BHAF (big honkin air filter), AFE/Mega Cannon, or Scotty II. So your not gonna get the EGT reduction needed to cover the extra fuel.



    Like I said. I'm tired right now and I have a TDR meeting @ 10am in the morning in Nashville. I'll come back and re-read this post tomorrow and make a more detailed reply. I hope no offense is taken from this post, none is certianly intended.



    Now I'm going to bed! :rotfl:
     
  11. FireRescue

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    Mark,

    For being tired at 2am I think your comments are right on. I wasn't sure about HP from sliding a stock 215 plate, but 40-50 came to mind. I thought you would see this and fill in the gaps.



    JGK,

    If you had a boost leak you would not see 36psi. I thinks Banks sets the wastegate on their Big Head Actuator for about 34-36PSI so it sounds like you are all set. On my 180 pump stock the most I ever seen was 19PSI maybe 20 on one or tow occasions and that is pretty consistent with what a stock 180 will produce. The 215 trucks will see a couple of more pounds of boost in stock trim.



    To richen up the AFC and blow more low end smoke you need to turn the star wheel toward the engine. It will click when you turn it. I would start with 20 clicks and go from there.



    You are not going to damage anything by running the AFC full forward with the plate full forward. You may have to watch your EGT's a bit more after sliding the plate and obviously you need to determine how much pre-boost smoke you can live with.



    As well as sliding the plate you can make sure your AFC housing is full forward as well. You had your AFC off before so I'm sure you noticed the holes on the housing allowed for a small amount of adjustment.



    On a side note, the more fuel and smoke the quicker your oil will soot up so if you are extending the drain intervals of your oil changes you might want to shorten them up a bit.
     
  12. jkgdiesel

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    Cool, guys thanks for the advice on that. I have noticed my oil soot up a bit more since the Banks install and I usually change the oil when ever I see it going from brown to black, about every 2000-4000 miles.

    On that star wheel, you can obviously click it both ways, like if I gave it 25 or 30 clicks and that was too much, I could turn it back to twenty by counting clicks back, right?

    I need to get a BHAF quick, they are just too damn expensive. I think I am just going to buy some sheet metal and fab my own and just buy the filter. You guys know how much just the filters are from AFE or someone else by chance??

    My EGT thermocouple is preboost and was tapped into the stock manifold like Banks recommended upon install.

    :bigthumb:
     
  13. FireRescue

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    Yep






    You are referring to two different thing here. A BHAF is a large paper air filter from a large Cummins application. The cost about $45 and the Fleetguard PN is AF19037 but you could cross reference that with many other filters, even NAPA.



    The AFE I think you are referring to is the MEga Cannon. They are around $180 for the complete kit, filter, mount, and cleaning kit. The filter alone sell for around $80.
     
  14. jkgdiesel

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    You are referring to two different thing here. A BHAF is a large paper air filter from a large Cummins application. The cost about $45 and the Fleetguard PN is AF19037 but you could cross reference that with many other filters, even NAPA.



    The AFE I think you are referring to is the MEga Cannon. They are around $180 for the complete kit, filter, mount, and cleaning kit. The filter alone sell for around $80.

    [/quote]



    Is the BHAF a paper filter that goes in the stock airbox, I am not following your first airfilter description. Is it a complete filter kit with mount and everything for $45?? What specifically should I ask for at Napa, A BHAF or just give them the Fleetguard PN#??
     
  15. FireRescue

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    A BHAF stands for Big Honkin' Air Filter. It started on another site and was given that name.



    It is a large round filter that replaces the stock airbox (you need to remove the airbox). It connects directly to the intake hose. All you need is the filter itself. Some guys are making a mount for them. Some recommend a small piece of pipe on the inside of the filter neck so when you tighten down the clamp on the hose you don't distort the hard plastic past of the filter.



    To make it waterproof you can install an Outerwears Prefilter. http://www.outerwearsracing.com They cost about $35 and you can clean it and reuse it. I wouldn't imagine it would wear out.



    At NAPA if you give them the Fleetguard PN they should be able to locate the proper cross referenced filter for you.
     

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