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Plenum Gasket Repair Cost ???

Discussion in 'Dodge 4x4' started by FrozenRam, Mar 24, 2008.

  1. FrozenRam

    FrozenRam
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    Ok , so like pretty much everyone with a Ram it's time to do the gasket job . I've did the search and have been reading up on it for a while now . I'm going to order the Hughes kit but what I'd like to ask is if I should attempt this myself or take it to a shop ? I can tackle some 'moderate' stuff myself but I've never attempted this before and can admit that I'd be a little nervous doing this for the 1st time for fear of screwing something up . What would a shop charge , labour only , to do this ? How many hours could I expect them to charge me ? Any special tools needed that your average Joe's toolbox might not have ? Should I just go for it myself and not worry about it ? Thanks for your input !
     

  2. Hometheaterman

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    I paid $660 in labor from one of the best mechanics if not the best around here. He seems to usually have fair prices to me although he might be a little higher than a few others shops. I'd rather pay extra and have it done right. I had a few of the bolts snapped off he had to get out too.



    I then paid I think it was $158 for the full APS pleneum kit. It also included the lower intake gaskets which I've heard you have to buy seperately with the Hughes kit.
     

  3. Texas97

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    that plenum kit fix is pretty easy. just take your time and make sure you take everything apart without breaking it. its basically the throttle body, the linkage for that and then the bolts that hold on the intake. You will also have to disconnect the fuel rail from the injectors, and the toughest part about that is making sure you get them seated correctly when you put it back on.



    If you consider yourself to be good with "moderate" tasks, i think this is less than moderate. but maybe thats just me. anyone else have an opinion?
     
  4. Silver

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    It is moderate in my opinion. Not too tough, but there is some tricky areas to be careful with. It is mostly just time consuming due to the amount of stuff you have to remove to get access. It is an excellent chance to do some preventative maintenance too. If you have a lifted truck, it might be worth the back ache to remove the fan and shroud so you can stand inside the engine compartment. Wich I had done it that way.
     
  5. redwingedram

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    its pretty easy i would say less than moderate, with some basic tools, a 3/8 torque wrench, and a few hours of your time it isnt hard. just make sure to label everything (makes install much faster) and if you wheel your truck make sure to wash the piss out of the top of your engine before you start tearing it apart.
     
  6. joe3165

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    It was pretty easy...you just have to keep things organized. I suggest that you replace the bypass hose and thermostat when you do this job since you have to remove them anyway.



    Here are the instructions I used: http://www.madrt.com/m1install.html



    These instructions assume that you're replacing the manifold, but the rest of the steps are the same.



    Good Luck!
     
  7. Texas97

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    good call on that thermostat, Joe. its been two years since i did mine and i cant remember what all i replaced. i did the plenum at the same time i was puting in the new roller rockers and i upgraded to a 180 t-stat. i also went to a larger ported and pollished TB too.



    i forgot all that stuff was done at the same time. thanks for bringing back those old memories!

    ** unrelated note: beer kills brain cells.** :rotfl:
     
  8. low620

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    make sure the o-rings on the injectors are good. and put some type of lubricant (wd-40, light grease, etc.) on the o-ring before you slip it into the fuel rail.
     
  9. FrozenRam

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    Great info , everyone - Thanks ! I think this is do-able , but I believe this would be a project where the beer stays in the fridge until the truck is running again ! Regarding the thermostat , since I'm in there already , I've heard pros and cons as to changing to a 180 or staying with the stock range - any downsides to changing to the 180* ? Any real benefit ? Also probably a great time to do the cap and rotor since I would actually be able to see it ! or do I have to pull that anyway to remove the intake ?
     
  10. Silver

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    No, you don't need to remove the cap/rotor to do the intake, but yes, it is a great time to service it. Definetly do the waterpump bypass hose, and I recommend not resuing the o-rings. When you buy new ones, don't skimp. Get the good ones. The ones I used were viton. I also did some other preventative maintenance at that time, including replacing the top and bottom radiator hose, serpentine belt, new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, tb gasket, and air filter. It is also a good time to mod your intake while you have it off. It is pretty easy to do, but will add several hours to your repair time. However, I felt it was well worth it. Noticable gains in the mid rpm range. There are several good write-ups on various forums for how to both repair your plenum and how to mod your intake. Lastly, do you have an in/lb torque wrench?
     
  11. Texas97

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    no need to pull the cap when you take the intake off. but if you need to replace it anyway, that would be the time to do it.
     
  12. cusportsman

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    just did mine about 2 weekends ago, stayed up took me about 13 or 14 hours all together with a couple of breaks in there, it would not have taken me so long if i hadn't been by myself and trying to hold a flashlight so i could see what i was doing, i also had to fight with a siezed up spark plug for the #7 cylinder, took me all of an hour or more to get the dang thing out :wall:



    so, another set of hands would make it go much quicker and adequate lighting is a MUST



    my teeth started hurting from biting the flashlight, so i ended up duct taping it to my hat :silly:



    i bought the hughes kit, and when i did this i replaced the valve cover gaskets, all the intake gaskets, new cap/rotor, spark plugs, wires, 180* thermostat, new bypass hose, radiator fluid, oil change (after i ran 1 can of combustion chamber cleaner)



    anybody think i will need to change the oil again if i run another can of combustion chamber cleaner through it now? or should i just wait until it's almost time to change the oil again?



    i've only heard mine ping once or twice since i've done the repair, it is MUCH better though, now if i could only get my tranny problems solved :wall:
     
  13. Texas97

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    14 hours!?!?! :shock: Holy block-of-time, Batman!



    Granted, i did not have a siezed spark plug, but with changing out all sensors on the TB, swapping out rocker arms, installing the hughes kit, installing a 180 t-stat, adjusting the TV cable, adding all new gaskets etc., i have to recall it took me about 4 hours, from tear down, until it was running again.
     
  14. Silver

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    Mine also took about 12 hours from start to finish, but that included many extra maintenance items I did. I did it over the course of 2 days. I think if I did nothing but the plenum, and knowing how to do it now that I have done it once, I bet it could be done in about 5-6 hours, not more then 8 for sure.



    If you do happen to get it done in just a few hours, I would recommend not running the truck right away. The RTV you use on the corners of the gaskets (where the heads, intake, and block come together) needs time to properly set up. If you use RTV on the plenum gasket too, same thing, it needs to cure before it is heated up to operating temps. If you heat it up before it has sufficiently cured, you will probably have just wasted your time and likely need to redo it.
     
  15. snocross2xtremes

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    its a pretty ez job i did mine with putting new heads on in about 8 hours.. with the APS pleneum kit. the first time i had the stearlship do it for 450.. but then agin i had to redo it 2 week later and put heads gaskets in the motor..
     
  16. cusportsman

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    i feel confident that i could probably do it in about 6 to 8 hours if i have to do it again, this was my first time ever doing anything "major" to the motor, so i guess i was being extra cautious



    it would probably have been MUCH easier if i had taken the fan and shroud off too, but i didn't have an adjustable wrench big enough to fit that nut, so....a lot of my time came from hunching over and leaning and sitting on the fender
     
  17. Texas97

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    i like having the fan shroud on when i work on the engine because thats where i place all the tools. :bigthumb:



    i dont have that big of a problem getting to the engine, but i guess thats because im 6'4", with the reach of a teradactyl. usually i kneel on the front bumper, but i have sat in the engine bay before. makes it much easier now that i dont have the K&N FIPK in the way.
     
  18. cusportsman

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    i like to place tools on the fan shroud too, i'm 6'2" and it wasn't bad, the worst part was trying to get that siezed up spark plug out :cuss:
     
  19. Ramsport999

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    go to a dodge dealer. its free. dodge was the one who messed it up and they had a recall on the plenum gasket.
     
  20. bajabomber87

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    Was yours free? or are you just reliterating what you've read somewhere?



    But anyways, the problem with the stock plenum gasket is the fact that it sucks and even the replacement sucks. You need a hughes or aps kit. The thick cover is the key to keeping everything cherry. The stocker just flexes and lets the seal go.
     

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