Hub Assembly Replacement

Discussion in 'Dodge 4x4' started by sscwickidoffroad, Jan 10, 2009.

  1. sscwickidoffroad

    sscwickidoffroad
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    2
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    I've got a 97 Ram 1500 4x4, drivers side hub bearings went out. When looking at a replacement assembly I'm havin a problem. Parts stores are telling me i need the setup for 4 wheel ABS instead of the standard assembly without it. I do have the wire and magnetic pickup on my truck but its installed on the inside of the steering knuckle and the tone wheel is a part of the outer axle shaft. All the pictures i can find include all the wiring for the ABS setup which i didn't have to mess with to get it apart. The assembly without ABS is much cheaper, tryin to save some bucks. Thanks for the help.
     

  2. Hacksaw

    Hacksaw
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    491
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Sounds like your parts store is just trying to get you to spend more money..



    -Jeremy
     

  3. sscwickidoffroad

    sscwickidoffroad
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    2
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Thats what i figured, doesnt seem right. I just dont see how the hub assembly impacts the ABS sensor for my particular application.
     
  4. JasonB

    JasonB
    Expand Collapse
    Administrator
    Staff Member

    9,184
    20
    Trophy Points:
    2,228
    you need to ask for any unit bearing for a 97 1500 as it does not matter if it is abs or not. there is no abs version for those years.
     
  5. rydesolow

    rydesolow
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    56
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    yes, you dont need the ABS version. i just did my hub recently also on my D44 before I swapped into D60's. I had the same deal. i've had no problems with the regular hub assembly.



    btw,

    have fun with that damn axle hub nut:) my breaker bar was 12' long.



    haha!
     
  6. big_blue

    big_blue
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    6
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    impacts work wonders lol :rotfl:
     
  7. honorguard

    honorguard
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    14
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0



    I blew a Driver's side front hub out at 80 on I75 Wednesday. $105 towing bill.



    Anyhow.. the Castle nut is a bitch to find. I had to go to a dealership 20 miles away to get one. It was a little over $30.



    Order one now.. You cannot possibly save the nut that's on there and you can spend $13 on a castle nut on the internet. It WILL strip out when you break it loose. It's on with 175 ft/lb of torque and the threads are apparently made of butter. I had to use a 12" breaker bar with a 24" extension and JUMP on the bar to break the nut loose.



    Another little tidbit, break the nut loose with the brakes on and have someone hold the break so the hub doesn't turn. I made the mistake of breaking it all down and having to put the wheel back on (Minus the center cap) to break loose the Castle nut.



    I bought a non-ABS 4X4 hub from Autozone with a 1 year warranty for $108.
     
  8. olyelr

    olyelr
    Expand Collapse
    Well-Known Member

    1,153
    0
    Trophy Points:
    866





    Ive taken mine off a few times and am still using the same one. Maybe Im just lucky.
     
  9. dennhop

    dennhop
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    366
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0



    same here, never had a problem with it, use an impact, will make life a lot easier! It's a 1 11/16 in socket, so it'll be a 3/4 in drive, more than likely. Soak it in PB blaster overnight if it's the first time you've taken it off...Then I ended up using a gear puller to pull the old hub assy off the axle. Again, makes it a lot easier!
     
  10. honorguard

    honorguard
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    14
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    Strange. I guess I'll blame Chuck for being a beast of a man and putting it on with his super-human strength. :D:
     
  11. USMCMP5811

    USMCMP5811
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    676
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0





    That's a bad Idea. That will put a lot of stress on your axel shaft transfering stress on your Diff. Go to your local hardware store and get a couple of grade 8 bolts that are the same thread as the hub bearing bolts but about 2 inches longer than the stock ones. install the grade 8 bolts in the old hub assembly and use an air hammer on them... It will walk the old hub assembly right out of the axel.
     
  12. dennhop

    dennhop
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    366
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0



    That seems to me that that would actually put more stress on the axle shaft, since the puller will pull out evenly, as opposed to tightening individual bolts until the hub separates from the axle...:dunno:



    Not trying to start anything, just wondering...
     
  13. USMCMP5811

    USMCMP5811
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    676
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0



    Because you are not putting any stress on the axel while removing it. Nothing is touching the axel. You are not tightening the bolts to get the hub out like a press. you are installing bolts into the old worn out hub from the same location that the factory bolts came out of and air hammering the bolt heads. the bolts are 2 inches longer than stock so they are not tight against the knucle. Being that the hub is junk, who cares what stress you are putting on it?
     
  14. dennhop

    dennhop
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    366
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0



    I'm wondering if we're talking about different types of pullers...I use the tooth pullers, with 3 adjustable j- hooks that tighten around the edge of the hub, with just the center bolt and an adapter to push down on the center of the axle, where the castle nut threads on. It does push a bit on the axle, but it's not pushing that much, and like you said, if the hub splits, its bad anyways, so it doesn't matter. That's what I was talking about, not sure if that was the same style puller you were referring too...
     
  15. Madd Ramm

    Madd Ramm
    Expand Collapse
    New Member

    12,648
    0
    Trophy Points:
    0
    The hub splitting has nothing to do with it being good or bad. They are two piece units and can technically be removed and the seals replaced. steved has done it and has a thread about it. I think there might actually be one of the Tech writeups showing how to do that.



    The best way to pull the hub off is by pushing or prying against what it is actually stuck to....the knuckle. I usually put a socket on those 3 bolts and loosened them ever so slightly and hit them with a hammer to slowly push it out. If the shaft is rusted onto the hub one you get the hub off the knuckle, then yeah, I can see using a puller to separate them. Otherwise, I wouldn't.
     

Share This Page