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have to pull the engine to change the oil pan?

Discussion in 'Ford 4x4' started by RedInline6, Nov 8, 2004.


  1. RedInline6

    RedInline6
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    hey all. just noticed my oil pan has a rust hole in it. as i laid underneath it swearing i was looking at the crossmember. it looks like there isn;t enough room to work the oil pan out and put the new one in without pulling the engine. anyone had to change an oil pan in a 4.9l before? can it be done with the engine in the truck? thanks. :wall:
     

  2. Mr Joe

    Mr Joe
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    I don't recall pulling a 300 pan. Some tricks I've done on others were.... drop the pan just enough to unbolt the strainer and then remove the pan. Unbolt the mounts and jackup the engine to gain clearance. Be careful that nothing hits the firewall...



    :baby:
     

  3. Mr. Death

    Mr. Death
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    :withstupid: I had to replace the oil pan gasket on my 302 last year and we ended up unbolting the motor and using a engine hoist to lift it up enough to get the oil pan out. Hopefully you can do the same with your 300. That was the {expletive}tiest job ive ever had to do on my truck :cuss: :wall:
     
  4. RedInline6

    RedInline6
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    thanks guys. that's what my manual says too. hoping it wouldn't be that intensive. i gotta do this outside this weekend with a high of 40 degrees. i don't understand how it rusted out from the inside.
     
  5. GreenGiant93

    GreenGiant93
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    I've done the pan on a 300, it's a pain. You will need to raise up the motor, be sure to pull the egr off the back or it will crush into your wiper motor. Ford sells a really nice rubber gasket that uses little plastic pins to hold it up while you get the pan in. I would replace the pump and clean the pickup tube while your in there. As for the pan, some years ford used a very thin metal and cruddy paint and they developed pinholes, it did,'t rust out from the inside but just a little chip will allow water and whatnot to get under the paint and rust it out. I picked up my pan from ford and i think it was only $1 more than the aftermarket piece from napa.
     
  6. Lazarus Project

    Lazarus Project
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    :withstupid: Although, I didn't pull my EGR off. I jacked up the motor till it kissed the firewall then maybe one or two half-/quarter-pumps of the engine hoist and stopped. Just enough room to wrestle the pan out. I had the same problem you did, the pan rusting inside out (the motor was out of a '91 F150 which was from New York). I went and bought the Ford oil pan and am happy with it. I don't think you'll have any problems with it, seems to be fairly beefy, at least compared to the one I pulled off.



    Edit: grammar.
     
  7. SalvagExpert

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    i change at least 5-6 ford oil pans a year, mostly on the 351W trucks.... i dont know what ford did to the metal to make them rust submerged in oil, but boy do they ever!



    but mostly jacking up the engine is enough to wrestle the pan out... a good trick i learned when doing these pans, getting the gasket to stay the hell in place while you beat the pan back in place is quite a task to say the least.



    put your sealant on the pan then put the gasket on the pan, and take sewing thread and tie the gasket to the pan through the bolt holes in 6-8 places to hold it in place real secure. put your sealant on top of the gasket and now the gasket wont keep slipping and falling off when you try and get the pan back in place.



    just pull the threads off once its in place and bolt it up :bigthumb:
     
  8. RedInline6

    RedInline6
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    now that's a good tip! i was wondering how i was going to do that.



    new question. 4.9l oil pans are the same from like 84 on up, and the engine block is the same. why is there a gasket change between 91 and 92? the oil pan i got from the junkyard was off an 87 and my 94 gasket doesn't match up. any ideas?
     
  9. Mr Joe

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    If the pan and block haven't changed, why wouldn't the gasket line up?? Makes no sense to me... :sorry:





    :baby:
     
  10. RedInline6

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    took a good look at the pan i've got and the one on the truck (wife had it today). Wrong freakin' pan! I think it's from a 302. there is no possible way it came off a 300. So now the money i was saving on buying a used pan is gone in gas money and parts cleaner. :cuss: So i'm going to try to see if i can jb weld the hole in my pan. well pull it and see how bad it is.
     
  11. Budgreen

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    it's not worth the time to fix the pan, if it's like the pan that was in the ford aerostar van I had for awhile it's paper thin, and if it has a small rust hole there are larger ones hiding. I patched mine up on one side and a few months later a rust hole on the other side the size of a golf ball broke out of it on the freeway, wasn't expecting that as the pan itsself looked fine and clean. do what you need to do and just get a new pan.
     
  12. fordI64x4

    fordI64x4
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    dang! i have that same motor in my f 250 it has 379 000 and its still pullin strong it has a couple little problems,the valve cover gasket leaks, low oil pressure when i start it up and of course the oil pan gasket leaks :cuss: that is really going to suck :withstupid:
     
  13. RedInline6

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    well after much deliberation and poking and proding i decided to let it leak until it gets really bad. the clutch need to be replaced anyway. i'll have them both done at the same time. the "hole" in the pan turned out to be a patch of rust under the paint that had cracked. spent 10 minutes poking the pan with a screwdriver and found no holes. so it's either the pan gasket (has 15k miles on it) or the rear oil seal is leaking. so i'll just add oil if i need to. it never seems low. thanks all.
     

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