Featured 99 Jeep TJ Project

Discussion in 'Vehicle Build-Ups' started by swirvin21, Nov 10, 2012.

  1. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    Well....finally I can explain why I have not been getting things done on the Black or White Rams recently....I bought a TJ Project!!!! Been trolling around CL and online looking for another project now that the White Ram is driving and mostly done. I really need something to work on intently and not just small bolt-on stuff.

    I stumbled across this 1999 Jeep TJ Sport w/ 130K, manual trans, 6 cyl 4.0L, soft top w/ half doors, Red with a number of things missing for a steal! It was a fellow TulsaOffroad member's rig that he started a 1 ton swap on back when he grenaded the rear. It had sat too long and he just wasn't able to get the time or money to finish, so he sold it to me. Had another guy trying to outbid me, so I'm really fortunate he chose me over the guy who would have likely just rebuilt to stock and sold it....

    Not much to report for now. Making arrangements to pick it up and get a space opened up in the garage. It comes with a 14 bolt rear axle (unknown ratio), a few stock suspension parts, CB w/ antenna and most of the stock parts. Its missing: axles, tires/wheels, front sway bar, soft top fabric and likely a few other misc parts I didn't notice. Plan is to pull the 1 tons from the Black Ram and slap them in the Jeep and then put some new 1 tons in the Ram.

    Here's some pics to hold everyone over..

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    So Jeep is still considered a Mopar...right?? LOL
     
  2. RamSport59

    RamSport59 Well-Known Member

    Welcome to the dark side.....

    btw it will start to burn when you pee too....


    Rick
     

  3. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    Rick, who said it didn't already.....6 years in the Corps will do that to you! By the way, HAPPY BIRTHDAY MARINES!

    I really couldn't pass up the deal and now I have an excuse to pull the 60s off the Ram and finish building the 60/80 combo :idea:
     
  4. LegendKiller89

    LegendKiller89 New Member

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    That explains alot lol, sounds like a solid project though. Congrats.:bigthumb:
     
  5. BlueRam2500

    BlueRam2500 Well-Known Member

  6. Jasonlmrx

    Jasonlmrx New Member

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    jeez looks awesome! jeeps down around this area are like Gold! the worst beat up looking jeep wont go for cheaper then 2000$ hard to find deals around this area on jeeps.,

    this jeep sure does look awesome ! cant wait to see all the updates!@
     
  7. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    It called out to me to buy it. I won't say how much, but if you multiply $100 by an age most women lie and say they are you'll be close! :rotf:

    Right now, my biggest obstacle is deciding on which suspension style to run on the Jeep. It will be a DD/trail rig and I want to build it around a set of 37" BFGs I already have with a simple and cheap suspension that will give a good ride on the street, more street biased than offroad. So double triangulated systems aren't in the budget. Thinking a radius arm style front w/ panhard or triangulated uppers w/ parallel lowers and a panhard, then either a leaf spring rear (I have 90% of the parts and they are cheap!) or a triangulated upper with parallel lower again. Seems most aftermarket kits run that style and they are relatively easy to setup on my 60's. To keep it cheap I'd like to stick with coils, but if I can find affordable used coil-overs I'll go that route at least in the front for packaging reasons.

    No rear stretch for now since I can't afford to get a stretch gas tank, but may do something <3" up front. I'm thinking it will be easier to go long-arm from the beginning, than try and adapt both axles to stock setup, but places like T&T and WFO & Artec have conversion style trusses that I could make work, just not sure it's the cheapest way to go.

    First step is to get it home! Going to grab my tire carts and see about using them, may need a few new casters after the Ram squished them! :wall:
     
  8. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    Here we were on the trailer. Ended up using 2 jacks, 1 hoist, bunch of wood and some trailer ingenuity to get everything off. Built a simple cart out of 6x6s and some caster wheels.

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    Carpet removed and some quick vacuuming...

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    Pulled it out of the garage today to do some cleaning and see how 37s fit...who says I need any lift? They look fine with a touch of trimming! Uptravel is for whiners....

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    And now it looks like a REAL project, full of other parts and junk from around the garage to make room...

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  9. Jasonlmrx

    Jasonlmrx New Member

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    jeez it looks awesome! wish i could have my own ahaha great job cant wait for the updates,
     
  10. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    found some old Corvette tail lamps and buckets with pigtails in the garage, going to flush mount them into the tub. Maybe see if there is a LED conversion for them or something. Either way, think they will look very awesome!

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    Also got my Artex truss for the Dana 60, brand new MODULAR design to be able to use with leaf springs or coils, etc....very very cool. It's says ALOT when you can mock-it up in your living room without tack welds or anything!! :grouch: :tu: :headbang: :flipoff:

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  11. PowerWagon86

    PowerWagon86 New Member

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    Looks real good, can't wait for whats coming up. :bigthumb:
     
  12. BlueRam2500

    BlueRam2500 Well-Known Member

    Nice man those Vette tails are going to look awesome.
     
  13. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    So after looking at countless builds and brackets made by everyone I can find, I think I have everything at least decided on design-wise. It will be a 3 link front long arm suspension and a 4 link rear (if I can afford). I plan on using a majority of Artec brackets, with a little left to be determined. The front axle will be stripped of the stock bracketry and I will add a truss to tie in the 3rd link on the long side tube. I'm trying to determine whether the axle bracket will end up over the CAD housing, which I'd like to avoid. If it does, I will use the truss to tie in enough strength to go around it. In the rear, I just need to find out if I can get away with the 10* out that the lower link brackets typically have. If it won't work, I'll do a triangulated upper and parallel lower, but if the 10* out will work I think it would be better.

    Now, I think I'm going to keep the rear at the stock location for now because finding $800 for a new tank is difficult to do. I think that I will use a cheaper stock for the links and then sleeve in or over some nicer stuff when I stretch later on. That should keep the cost down some and allow me to maximize my minimal budget. In the front, I think I can do a small stretch off the bat and get 2-3" without major steering box or trackbar interference. Again, I'll do a cheaper link and sleeve it later when I do a bigger stretch.

    I'll do a budget spacer lift if need be, but with the tube fenders and trimming in the rear I think I'll be able to clear the 37s for street and trail use. The 1.25" lift lift should give that little bit extra just in case.

    I would like to hear some input on which SYE kit to go with. My 2 best choices I feel are the Rugged Ridge HD kit for around $200 http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-...spx?t_c=12&t_s=512&t_pt=7779&t_pn=RUG18676.60 and the TeraFlex super short kit http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-...aspx?t_c=12&t_s=512&t_pt=7779&t_pn=TER4444400 for closer to $280. I would like to hear other options if someone has some.
     
  14. RamSport59

    RamSport59 Well-Known Member

    I would go with the super short one since you sticking with stock placement. The 1 tons will have a longer snout on the pinion so that shaft will be tiny.

    Rick
     
  15. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    Good point, didn't think about that. You had any experience with any of the Super Short kits? Even though I do not plan to run the 231 forever I'd like to get something that will last as a daily driver since I'm 99% positive that my wife will steal the keys and never give them back after the first ride!! :D
     
  16. RamSport59

    RamSport59 Well-Known Member

    Nope never done a super short kit. Cant be any different than a normal one. Isnt a bad job to do either.

    Rick
     
  17. FITTnFISH

    FITTnFISH Well-Known Member

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    Does your wife ever get tired of HER garage:tongue: being full of projects and parts?


    Just shittin ya! Good luck with the build!
     
  18. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    Definitely gets her ticked from time to time :bigthumb: But I just tell her that she's likely to take the Jeep away from me when it's done anyway....she's a sunroof fanatic, so the concept of having a Jeep with half doors and no top really got her excited. We'll probably actually start getting rain the second I'm done with it!!

    I think I'm going to go with the Teraflex kit and see when someone puts them up for sale. I'm still collecting parts and brackets to do the conversion, got a set of Artec 4 link brackets on sale for the rear and am looking at hitting up RuffStuff and Ballistic while they are offering 20% off.
     
  19. FITTnFISH

    FITTnFISH Well-Known Member

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    Just curious, were you a mechanic while in the Marines? Only reason I ask is that you obviously have a lot of experience with automotive ins and outs.

    Some of your statements regarding which "setup" to use for your jeep had my head spinning!! I'm sure if a guy is interested enough in something that over time he's going to retain what he's experienced...I get that!

    However, I've been fairly interested in this 4WD stuff for a while and usually retain well and at a faster rate. With that said, I'm still having trouble grasping the "lingo" and the logistics of all this. :confused:

    When I read the technical side of this thread what I'm hearing is like watching "tele mundo" on the mexican channel.
     
  20. swirvin21

    swirvin21 New Member

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    I was an ordnance tech working on F-18s in Corps. I was an Operational level tech, which means I dealt directly with the aircraft and munitions immediately prior to installation, while Intermediate level techs actually deal with building or repairing munitions or the tools used to install them. However, we were also responsible for trouble-shooting all ordnance related systems on the F-18 itself, resulting in quite a bit of mechanical and electrical knowledge being passed on. Unfortunately, that knowledge doesn't really translate into many civilian applications, but we also spent a large amount of time with the HMMV as they broke down regularly while we hauled explosives or armed/disarmed aircraft on the runway. So combine that with my experience as a shop foreman for a tiny Jeep shop in Dallas, TX year s ago and I'm pretty well rounded. I was also an insurance adjuster which involves a lot of training on vehicles in every category.

    Despite my ability to use big words with suspension designs, I am in no way an expert. The 4 link calculator still confuses me, so don't think I don't get confused when people talk about anti-squat and other terms. Reading Billavista's suspension training on Pirate as well as other threads on the subject will help though.

    Do simplify what I'm doing, think about the different types of link suspension setups:
    -3 link ( 2 lower links and 1 upper link) and panhard bar (track bar)
    -4 links: ( 2 lower links and 2 upper link) can be with or without panhard depending on setup

    1) parallel 4 link= both upper and lower parallel with panhard: think stock 2nd gen Dodge Ram
    2) upper parallel, lower triangulated= uppers are parallel to each other, lower are triangulated from wide on the axle to narrow on the frame "V" design: this is common on Rockwell axled trucks
    3) upper triangulated, lower parallel= opposite of above, with uppers triangulated from narrow on axle to wide on frame "/\": fairly common setup in the rear of rigs
    4) dual triangulated= both upper and lower are triangulated in above #2 and #3, looks like an "X" from above: this is common in rears and only with full hydro on fronts (BUGGY suspension)
    5) Almost dual triangulated= which is where the uppers are triangulated and the lowers are only slightly triangulated 10-20*: this is common in rear, not much in front

    Now those are just designs, you still need to take into account what the degrees are of each triangulated. If it's not triangulated enough, you need a panhard bar to keep the axle centered. If you triangulate incorrectly, you get binding.

    In the long run, unless you are a competition guy, you base your suspension off of how easily it can be packaged. In my case, I can do a upper triangulated and lowers slightly triangulated because I will be running full width axle in the rear. Dual triangulated can be argued as being better, but building a crossmember so that the lowers can be mounted in the center under the t-case output is harder. Same situation in the front, hard to fit with exhaust and everything else.

    I'm going to have to cut this short because I gotta run, but feel free to ask away. I like answering these questions because people WILL correct me if I say something wrong (hopefully :tongue: ) and it reinforces my theories on how I want to set this up. Gotta run, will answer more soon as I've ordered a few parts..... :bigthumb: