TRANSMISSION COOLER
and REMOTE FIILTER

After I had to have my transmission rebuilt, I decided to help prolong the life of the new one by installing an aftermarket transmission cooler and remote filter. After changing the factory filter several times now, I have had a lot of time to look at it and I don't think it is very effective for stopping smaller particles.

The remote filter I installed was by Perma-Cool and the kit includes a mounting bracket, temperature sensor, temperature gauge, plenty of wire and connectors, hose and clamps, and a Fram PH8A equivalent filter. The filter is supposed to be good up to 75,000 miles. I picked this kit up from Summit Racing for $79.

The kit also includes an adapter to connect to the existing lines to the factory cooler (radiator/cooler combination). This adapter did not fit my vehicle so I decided to splice into the existing rubber lines with double barbs. Doing this also allows me the opportunity to bypass the new filter and cooler should anyhting go wrong by simply connecting the factory hose back together.

In the location that I mounted the filter meant that the required 5" minimum radius bend of the hoses could not be met do the hood using teh provided fittings. I picked up a pair of high-flow 90 degree fittings to make things work. I used Teflon plumbers tape on all threaded fittings.

The cooler I decided to install is a B&M SuperCooler rated at 28,000 GVW. This is their biggest cooler designed for high flow racing applications. The instructions said that since it is designed for racing applications that are very unique to each vehicle, no fittings or mounting fasteners were included. I had to install a 3/4" to 3/8" adapter then a 3/8" hose barb. I picked this unit up from CarParts.com for $58.

I mounted the cooler to the a/c unit in front of the radiator with a transmission cooler mounting kit I picked up from Napa for $4. I had to unbolt the top bolts to the a/c unit to tilt it forward to get the mounting tabs pushed through. Be sure to pull these mounts tight.

After a whole lot of trial fitting, I decided to locate the filter on a 90 degree bracket attached to the radiator. I wanted to leave room for a second battery in the stock location so I didn't mount the filter to the inside fender. If you were to do that, you would need to drill 3 holes for the supplied metal screws.

When I mounted the angle bracket, it was between the plastic radiator and the plastic fan shroud, using the fan shroud mounting bolts. The temperature sensor requires a grounded connection and since the bracket was mounted to plastic, I had to include a small ground wire from the filter mount bolts to the frame.

In case you are worried about moutning the bracket to the plastic, I have wheeled my truck quite a bit since the install and I have also been rear ended by someone going over 40mph at impact and the bracket is still holding strong.

Now for the hose routing. I wanted the filter to do its thing before the fluid hits the coolers. This will prolong the cooler life by not letting particles inside the cooler and build up as fast. I also wanted to keep the coolest fluid running back to the tranny.

Therefore I cut the hose from the factory cooler input (transmission output) and spliced in the filter. I then cut the factory cooler output (transmission input) and spliced in the new B&M cooler. Since I spliced all of the connections rather than build new ones, I can easily bypass the filter and/or either cooler if something goes wrong in the field.

Now the fluid travels as follows: Transmssion, remote filter, factory cooler, new cooler, transmission.

The temperature gauge was mounted below the dash using one of the dash screws near the SRS airbag module. The gauge needs ignition on/acc, light circuit, ground and the connection to the temp sensor. I spliced into the cigarette lighter for the ignition on/acc, the dash mounting screw holding the gauge braket doubled for the ground connection and I spliced into the dash illumination circuit so the gauge would light and dim with the dash.

For the dash illumination circuit, you can splice onto the wire on the back of the fuse box. On my 97 Ram 1500 5.2L auto 4x4, the wire was pink and I beleive it was the rightmost wire, second fuse bank from the bottom when looking at the back of the fuse panel. You can also check the fuse panel description (back of cover plate usually) for the circuit "Illum" or "Dash" or similar. Test the wire you choose with a circuit tester or voltmeter.

My transmission temp runs between 160 and 180 degrees under almost all conditions now. Wheeling, traffic jams, city, highway, long-hauls, etc. Only when the overdrive kicks out and the torque converter can't lock up does the temp approach 210 degrees. Drops back right away once the TC can lock (back in OD or OD locked out).