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4x4 Posi-Lock Installation

4x4 Posi-Lock Installation

REQUIRED TOOLS
MATERIALS
(Check manual for types, amounts and applicability)
TIME
Power Drill
Assorted Bits and a 5/8� Bit
Razor Knife
SAE Socket Set
Assorted Wrenches
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Wire Cutters
Drip Pan
Flashlight
RTV Sealant
Gear Oil
Electrical Tape
Zip Ties
2 Hours with clean-up

By NJBT4.56

First of all ignore anything in the instructions that does not make sense. They are poorly written. Second, throw away the instructions in the box and download the newest set from http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/instructions.htm , the instructions provided were inaccurate as to materials provided and the alignment of the fork was shown wrong, causing a few headaches.

Step 1. Drill hole in the firewall. They give you a template to find where the hole goes. I just measured, ignoring the template. You will have to cut a square of your insulation away to do this. I drilled a small hole first to make sure that it would not interfere with anything in the engine compartment.

Next mount the pull stop bracket. It is very straightforward. You just drill out the third hole in the bottom of the dash and replace with the supplied hardware. Next disassemble the stop by taking of the flathead screw in the handle and removing the locknut and washer. Then reassemble inside the bracket after you have fished the cable through the firewall. When fishing the cable through make sure to slide the heat resistant cover over the cable first. This cover will protect the cable from the headers. They do not warranty cable housing that is ruined due to wear or heat.

They also provide a rubber grommet to use wear the housing goes through the fire wall. I almost lost a finger trying to install this grommet. I used a good helping of RTV Blue sealant around the cable to protect it.

Now fish the cable housing down beside your frame near the driver side spring.

Next remove the existing CAD cover and all the connections to it. You should have a vacuum connection, electrical connection and a vent tube. Before pulling the cover off place a drip pan below the unit as some gear oil will come out. After it is removed set it aside and inspect the internal CAD components for wear. You may want to replace the ring, center, or outer axle if the splines are messed up.

Now you need to remove the fork from the stock CAD cover. To do this remove the all three e rings and unthread the switch. The e-rings will pull out with some needle nose and awl or pick. They are tough to get out so be patient. The rod that the fork slides on can be pushed out with a punch from the switch side. This will knock the vacuum unit off, which is connected to the rod. The vacuum unit is only held in by a pair of o-rings.

Some assembly of the new CAD cover will be required. If you want your 4x4 light to come on you will need to install the provided switch, cut the existing wires under the truck, and crimp the provided connections on to them. If you want to use the vent tube you will have to take the vent tube connection of the old CAD cover and thread into the new. The new rod that the fork will slide on is connected to the end of the cable. I elected to connect the switch but not the vent tube. I used the provided plug in the vent tube hole.

Now you install the fork onto the new CAD cover along with the cable end. This has to be done under the truck. Make sure you install the fork with the proper orientation. The cable end threads onto the new CAD cover. The instructions that they provided me showed the wrong orientation! The proper orientation is show in this picture. They provide you with new e-rings to mount the fork. It is very straightforward.

Now you have to adjust the fork travel. Have someone pull the stop handle in and out while watching the fork travel. You want it to travel from side to side with the e-ring hitting both inside edges of the new CAD cover. You adjust this by threading the CAD cover onto the cable. Once it is set correctly you can align the fork on the ring and reinstall the cover.

Now you have to somehow shut off your vacuum lines. The instructions say to follow the two lines back to the transfer case and then from the vacuum switch on the transfer case to the single line in the engine bay. I simply shut them off at the frame just above the CAD cover. I brazed them shut with solder. I placed the supplied single vacuum cover over one of the tubes for good luck.

Now go try it out. Make sure you follow the instructions on engaging and disengaging!!!