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From NickM
Tools List
Medium size screw driver
3/4" (19mm) socket
3"-4" socket extension
Ratchet and/or impact
Shop rags or towels
Small sledge hammer
Pry bar
Parts
’71-’91 Chevy 3/4 ton rotors
Calipers- this will depend on the ones you want to use
Pads for above calipers
JKWoffroad.com Caliper brackets
Let me start by saying, there are many write ups about the 14 bolt disk brake conversion, I want to make this write up easy for a beginner to understand. So if this seems over simplified, it is on purpose.
With this or any project the most important thing is safety. This is your brake system, if you do not know what your doing do not mess with them. Take it to a professional. We take no responsibility for accidents the might occur, due to bad workmanship. This write up is for information purposes ONLY. Do this at your own risk.
The caliper brackets I decided to go with are from JKWoffroad.com. Steve was friendly, very quick to answer any questions I had. Delivery was also very quick. JKW uses 3/8" thick 1018 steel plate for the caliper mounts and schedule 80 pipe for spacers with grade 8 hardware.
Lets get started
Removing the drums
Here is the axle I started with. It was out a 80ish 3/4 ton Chevy 4X4. (img 1)
Lets start by removing the axle shafts. Remove the 3/4" bolts (8) holding the axle flange on the hub assembly. (img 4) Remove the axle shafts and gaskets. (img 5 and 7) Be careful you dont damage the splines on the end of the axle shaft. Wrap the splines in a shop rag and set it aside.
Suggestion: put something on the ground to catch any gear lube that may come out. I used a coffee can lid with absorbent. This makes it easy for clean up.
  
Now lets remove the nuts on the spindle that hold the hub on. If you look at the nut, you will notice there is a washer with little tabs behind it holding the nut in place. (no, I dont know the name) once the spindle nut is tightened, the little tabs are pressed into the gaps of the nut. Using your screw driver pry up any these tabs that are pressed in the gaps of the nut(img 6). There are 2 ways (I know of) to loosen the nut, 1 You can buy a special tool made for these nuts or 2 you can use a screw driver and small hammer. I chose the cheap route. *Note: It would be a good idea to have this tool for setting the preload during reassembly. Any how, put the tip of the screw drive into any gap on the nut and tap it with the hammer, counter clockwise. Remove both nuts and both washers. (img 8 and 9)
  
Next remove the old drums. If the shoes seem to have a hold of the drums, try to loosen the brake adjustment. You can access this from the hole at rear of the drum near the bottom (img 2 and 3). Pry the wheel to turn it upwards. Img 12 shows the adjustment wheel from the inside. The drum should now come off(img 10).
   
We need to remove the backing plate next. To do this remove the bolts (4) holding it into place (img 11).
The drums and backing plates are now officially boat anchors(img 13).
Removing the drum from the Hub
Here again you have 2 choices:
you can either take your assembly to someone with a press.
Or take the "DIY (fix it yourself)" approach.
By now you know I am a cheap bastard. I took the DYI (read cheap) route. If you intend on reusing the studs, make sure you have the lugs nuts on BEFORE the next step (img 10). Using your hammer hit the lug nuts forcing the studs out of the rear. These are just pressed on and shouldn't take much to remove (img 26). As the stud are forced out, you'll need the remove the lug nuts. If the studs do not fall through, use a screw driver and your hammer. Take care not to mess up the threads on the studs (img 27). I used a magic screw driver that stands up by its self.
 
Now we need to remove the drum from the hub a$$embly. Using a pry bar pry between the drum and the hub, go around the hub a little at a time (img 28, 29, 30 and 31).
   
Now you are the proud owner of a pile of *@#% (img 32).
Installing hub to rotors
This is pretty easy. Really if you cant figure it out, you don't need to be working on your own crap. But for those who had a little too much to drink last night, Ill throw in a few pics. I used a set of '78 3/4 ton Chevy 4X4 rotors. Turn the hub with the outside downward, put the rotor on top and insert the lugs bolts. Tap the stud into the hub till they come out of the other side. this will hold every thing in place. You can now set the hub/rotors a$$emblies aside (img 33,34,35 and 37).
   
Installing JKW caliper brackets
The kit comes with grade 8 hardware so there was no need to upgrade. The brackets install onto the same holes the backing plate was removed from. Install the brackets, spacers and supplied bolts and torque to spec. (img 38, 39 and 40).
Suggestion: use some lock tight on the bracket bolts.
  
Next, I reinstalled the hub/rotor a$$embly. Torque the 1st spindle nut to 50#. Now the washer with the little tabs goes on. Last, install the 2nd spindle nut and torque to 50#. Reinstall the axle shaft and tighten the ¾" flange bolts to 115# (img 42, 43, 44 and 48).
   
We are getting to the end now. Let’s install the calipers and be done. I think you can figure this part out. Ill just post pics (img 41, 46, 47, 49, 50, 51 and 52.
   
  
Swapping the axle under the buggy will be a different write up, so stay tuned.
Your brake system is one, if not the most important systems on your rig. Don’t skimp on it. It will save your life.
They quality of workmanship that goes into these brackets is one of the best I have seem. Delivery was not over night but very close to it.
Customer service and quality are at the top of the list for JKW. Ill definitely be back for more parts.
For sale and service
Contact Steve at the link below
http://jkwoffroad.com/
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