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double hump heads
11-24-2004, 12:44 PM
Post: #1
 
is there any difference between double hump heads and regular heads? my friend is selling a pair for realy cheap.
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11-24-2004, 12:58 PM
Post: #2
 
double hump heads are better..they flow better and come with bigger valves (2.02/1.60) if your lucky

my 67 camaro came stock with them,it pushes 325 hp out of a 327 Thumbs Up!




79 chevy shortbox, 350-sm465-np205, 4 inch lift, 32" bfg mud terrains, front and real axle swap, headers, true duals, push bar, roll bar, kc & warn lights, custom interior, sun roof, bed liner

78 Ford F150, 351/4 speed, wranglers, stock for now
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11-24-2004, 01:43 PM
Post: #3
 
he said they have the 2.02/1.60 valves, this engine is going in my t/a, i'm going to use the stock quadrajet, what kind of power could i expect with the 350 i'm building? it is only a 2 bolt block, date code says december 1972, factory 2v carb. would i be better off with the lg4 cam from the t/a or the one thats in the 350 now? can't afford a new cam.
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11-24-2004, 02:03 PM
Post: #4
 
in the 70s 350s made about 155 horse at like 4,000 rpm and 225 ft. lbs at 2500 RPM. nothing to "kneck breaking" unless you put some 4.10s, ladder bars, and a solid t-400 with a shift kit your gonna be dissapointed. trust me, ive been building muscle cars since i could hold a 1/2 inch. Youve got a really good set of heads.. if i was you id dig around and atleast try to find a rv type cam for it,there cheap.. a 4-barrel carb, even stock one will make a difference, and go get urself a cheap set of dynoflow headers, around $80 for a 350, Dont waste those good heads. and if you do that, remember to port and polish ur intake, and intake/exhaust tunnels on ur heads, might as well while its tore down. if you do all that your looking around 300 horsies Very Happy




79 chevy shortbox, 350-sm465-np205, 4 inch lift, 32" bfg mud terrains, front and real axle swap, headers, true duals, push bar, roll bar, kc & warn lights, custom interior, sun roof, bed liner

78 Ford F150, 351/4 speed, wranglers, stock for now
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12-11-2004, 08:02 PM
Post: #5
 
I have the double hump heads on my 350, ported and polished, with an Edelbrock Performer intake and 4 barrel, headers, dual exhaust, and a good RV cam and some good pistons/rings. If you can do alot of the work yourself you can squeeze 400HP "cheaply".... Very Happy


Just like the last guy said, don't waste those good heads! lol Smart-ass




I Try ....
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12-11-2004, 09:08 PM
Post: #6
 
Hell ya, Camel Back Heads. Good Find, if your unsure about there performance put em on Ebay and watch the Bid's Fly, those suckers are fairly saught after.
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12-11-2004, 09:56 PM
Post: #7
 
I picked mine up for $75 cdn attached to a 350 from a 70's Camaro, they came ported from the factory I believe.... The kid I bought it off swapped a 454 into his car and just wanted to be rid of the sb! Smile
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12-12-2004, 11:42 AM
Post: #8
 
how "really cheap" is really cheap? if its under $100, and they're ready to go (not needing any work at all) its a decent deal. if they need any sort of work, pass on them. they're not the greatest performance head out there like everybody thinks they are. 882s actually outflow most of them. you say they're 2.02 heads, were they when the rolled off the a$$embly line? if not, they wont flow any better than anything and the ports on the 1.94 heads were smaller. many people just put 2.02 valve in them and think its just as good as a factory 2.02 head, this is not the case. if i were in your shoes, i would look into a set of Vortecs. 30+ years of technology makes a big difference. as for the cracking issue, its simple to solve that, DONT OVERHEAT IT!




-Jeremy<BR><BR>\'94 K1500 5.7 TBI/built 60E<BR>\'93 C2500- SAS in progress 383/80E/NP241 10/14FF <BR>\'92 C1500 5.7 TBI/700 totaled 5/9<BR>\'80 K2500 350/465/205 10/14FF Western Plow<BR>\'77 K20 bone stock 350/350/203 10/14FF
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12-13-2004, 02:42 PM
Post: #9
 
Quote:On 2004-12-12 10:42, Jeremy91K1500 wrote:
how "really cheap" is really cheap? if its under $100, and they're ready to go (not needing any work at all) its a decent deal. if they need any sort of work, pass on them. they're not the greatest performance head out there like everybody thinks they are. 882s actually outflow most of them. you say they're 2.02 heads, were they when the rolled off the a$$embly line? if not, they wont flow any better than anything and the ports on the 1.94 heads were smaller. many people just put 2.02 valve in them and think its just as good as a factory 2.02 head, this is not the case. if i were in your shoes, i would look into a set of Vortecs. 30+ years of technology makes a big difference. as for the cracking issue, its simple to solve that, DONT OVERHEAT IT!

30+ years of technology makes a big difference for sure, but also in the wallet to.... I don't think this guy wants to spend $2000 on a set of Vortec heads when he has some perfectly good ones right now... and performance wise, unless your drag racing or something of the sort, you don't need a done up set of heads. Mine are 194's and my engine turns a touch over 400hp with those same heads polished up, a good intake and cam Thumbs Up!




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12-13-2004, 03:11 PM
Post: #10
 
$2,000.00 for cast iron Vortec heads, complete? Where in God's name are you located? I sure hope that's not the going rate for such products in your neighborhood. Last time I got robbed, the guy was wearing a ski mask. If you shop around, a set of complete heads can be picked up for a few hundred bucks. Heck, you can probably get into a set of World Sportsman IIs, these days, for not much more than that. The Vortecs, perhaps obviously, will require a specific intake manifold, though.

Vortec heads will make far more power than ye' old double hump castings. As noted, 30+ years of R&D exist in the Vortec when compared to the double hump castings. Engineers realized greater charge velocity is a better conduit for torque/power than is raw flow #s, hence the Vortec castings coming with smaller (when compared to many earlier production castings) ports and valves.

EDIT: By the way, those "desktop dynos" are far, far from accurate. Everybody's got a 350+ horsepower combination, according to the ubiquitous desktop dyno. I wouldn't invest too much thought in what any of those things say. A real dyno, chassis dyno, or the racetrack (dragstrip) will give you an idea of what kind of power you're making. BTW, I wouldn't worry about having a 2-bolt main block. Ford and Chrysler guys make plenty of power on production 2-bolt blocks and I don't know of any known history of any of those blocks failing, saving for the late model thin walled 302/5.0 Ford blocks, when exposed to copious amounts of boost or nitrous. If any of you Chebby guys ever run across a "509" small block 400 block w/two bolt mains (last 3 digits end in 509) and you can buy it, BUY IT! This is a highly sought after piece. Yes, it's a 2-bolt main block, from GM, but the main webbing is thicker in it than the 4-bolt 350 and 400 blocks and several companies make 4-bolt main cap conversions, if a person were to think they'd need such. The 509 block is, arguably, the strongest production small block that GM ever cast.




Zac

If I fight dirty, how come my conscience is so clean?
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