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What usually goes first on high mileage 24v cummins?
05-16-2006, 10:11 PM
Post: #1
 
Im gonna be buying a 24v here soon its just a matter of finding one I want. Im looking at an 01 HO with a 6spd. Its a one owner with 186,000. I will be putting gauges, edge box, and exhaust within the first month.
I was wondering what usually goes on a cummins with high mileage? If I do buy a high mileage cummins, should I change the head gasket and use head studs before I mod it? How many miles does it take for a 24v cummins start loosing compression?
Thanks




-Chris-
Tow rigs:
01 ram 2500 Cummins
96 ram 2500 V10 (backup)

wheeler:
89 XJ Limited
4in thrown together lift on 34X10.5 LTB swampers
Welded rear

IF YOU DON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS, PLEASE, FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM!!
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05-16-2006, 10:19 PM
Post: #2
 
LOL you call 186,000 high mileage? ok? Baby ..i bought my 96' motor with 207,000 on it, and it spins 4,000 rpm daily at around 400 hp.I would have the Injection Pump checked out, making sure it is not dead, and you have plenty of fuel pressure...lift pump too.Give it an oil change and fuel filter change and hit the road!




1998 Ram 3500,4x4,6-speed,Disc Brake Dana 80 rear,Weld Racing Wheels,215hp 12 valve,B-1,AFE Mega Cannon
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05-17-2006, 04:46 AM
Post: #3
 
Quote:On 2006-05-16 22:19, Cummnzpowr wrote:
LOL you call 186,000 high mileage? ok? Baby ..i bought my 96' motor with 207,000 on it, and it spins 4,000 rpm daily at around 400 hp.I would have the Injection Pump checked out, making sure it is not dead, and you have plenty of fuel pressure...lift pump too.Give it an oil change and fuel filter change and hit the road!

I am With Stupid

I would start with the IP and LP as noted...the LP/IP are THE weak spot in the 2nd gen 24-valve trucks. Get a guage for fuel pressure and make sure it does not read less than 10psi. I had 201k on my original IP (3rd LP), dad has 250k on his original VP44 and 4th LP. We get about 80k/pump and change them out...they will usually start acting funny about that time.

Then I would give it the good once over:

My LSD was dead at 160k (easy rebuild)...carrier bearings were loose in the D70 at 200k (no towing to speak of)...I believe the bearings in my dad's D80 are still good at 250k, but the LSD is worn out...

And then the lovely front wheel bearings...I got 167k out of one and the other was still going at 201k...my dad has 250k on his original bearings...the rear wheel bearings on both trucks were loose and needed tightened around 200k...don't know if that was good or bad.

Change all the fluids...remember that the NV5600 calls for synchromesh and not gear oil.

If it is the OEM clutch...figure about 200k max before it needs replacing...dad could have probably gotten to 220k, but we changed it out early to prevent slipping and overheating the flywheel (which DID NOT need resurfaced and therefore, we didn't have it resurfaced...it shifts like a new one)...we did find every spring in the hub about reading to fall out too...

Check the rear springs...my dad's trucks eats one about every year...

steved




2012 Chevrolet 2500HD Silverado 4wd
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05-17-2006, 09:05 AM
Post: #4
 
maybe he is looking at other items external to the diesel like... alternator, waterpump, starter, etc......


my camaro is obviously no diesel.. but with 172,000 miles... new alt, waterpump and battery.. im wondering when the starter is going to go... the usualls...
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05-17-2006, 09:46 AM
Post: #5
 
Quote:On 2006-05-17 09:05, RootBreaker wrote:
maybe he is looking at other items external to the diesel like... alternator, waterpump, starter, etc......

my camaro is obviously no diesel.. but with 172,000 miles... new alt, waterpump and battery.. im wondering when the starter is going to go... the usualls...


At 201k, I had not replaced any of that stuff...the tranny was my biggest expense ($3k for a built auto)...rebuilt the posi for $75, three lift pumps $450, one hub at $235, and one ujoint...

At 250K, my dad has finally replaced the batteries...my dad has less that $2000 in repairs to his truck in the ENTIRE time he has owned it...$300 clutch, $500 for the 5th gear nut (on the 5 spd), $200 in a fan clutch and support bearing, $200 in ball joints, $150 in ujoints, $30 in a oil sending unit, $525 in lift pumps (at $150/pump and $75 for the last one), and brake rotors for $50...other than brakes and tires...it's been a pretty good truck, for only 250,000 miles!!!

The difference between a gasser and a diesel...isn't only in the engine, but in the components too.

steved




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05-17-2006, 10:49 AM
Post: #6
 
Quote:On 2006-05-17 09:05, RootBreaker wrote:
maybe he is looking at other items external to the diesel like... alternator, waterpump, starter, etc......

Nope just internal stuff and the IP and LP. Thanks for all your guys' help. Thumbs Up!




-Chris-
Tow rigs:
01 ram 2500 Cummins
96 ram 2500 V10 (backup)

wheeler:
89 XJ Limited
4in thrown together lift on 34X10.5 LTB swampers
Welded rear

IF YOU DON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS, PLEASE, FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM!!
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05-17-2006, 06:03 PM
Post: #7
 
I got 302,000 on mine and runs like it did 200,000 miles ago.. ROTFL ROTFL
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05-17-2006, 06:22 PM
Post: #8
 
the 92 i just bought runs great at 200,000 i plan on changing a few gastets and putting it back together




-Tim-
02 Ram 2500
Tow [censored], DD

79 Plymouth Trailduster
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60, 14, 40's, 4link, radius arms, arb's, chromoly, reid, warn, tube, cut frame ..... jack stands
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