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Tahoe or Yukon lifted to get 33's to fit along with issues that they have.
08-03-2006, 08:27 AM
Post: #1
 
I really only know alittle about the Dodge Ram as far as the lifts and the Rams short commings. so I figured if I had questions on a tahoe or Yukon, I could ask here.
I'm thinking I may get a 99 or so Tahoe or a 97 Yukon 2 DOOR (last model year for the 2 door for each one) to pull my boat and drag the family around in. Something alittle better suited for the family,( than my 1/2 ton Ram) but still fun. I DON'T want a 4 door.
I'd like to run a mild lift and run 33's and keep it real simple, but fun.
How big a lift? "Brand" for the buck? What are the "short commings" of these two models that I should consider or upgrade? Anything else you could add would be great.
I'll be pulling a 2800 lb boat and I have 1 dog, 1 wife and currently 1 - 3 year old son as passengers. I like to ride about 3-4 hrs to our camp. Hope you guys can give me some good info. Thanks.




96 Ram 1500,360 auto,3\" Skyjacker System,3\" PA Body,General Grabber MT\'s(summer),BF AT\'s(winter),4:56, Trac Lok front and back,RT heads ported/polished,cleaned up keg,Cam,gen II, ... and a whole lot of other stuff
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08-03-2006, 06:30 PM
Post: #2
 
Suggestions?




96 Ram 1500,360 auto,3\" Skyjacker System,3\" PA Body,General Grabber MT\'s(summer),BF AT\'s(winter),4:56, Trac Lok front and back,RT heads ported/polished,cleaned up keg,Cam,gen II, ... and a whole lot of other stuff
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08-05-2006, 06:01 AM
Post: #3
 
ANYBODY?????????




96 Ram 1500,360 auto,3\" Skyjacker System,3\" PA Body,General Grabber MT\'s(summer),BF AT\'s(winter),4:56, Trac Lok front and back,RT heads ported/polished,cleaned up keg,Cam,gen II, ... and a whole lot of other stuff
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08-05-2006, 06:11 AM
Post: #4
 
To keep it as simple as it can be, just go with a 3 inch body lift. You'll clear 33's on a 10 inch rim with no problem. One good thing about that is you'll have the ride and reliability of the stock suspension. A plus if the main thing you're going to be doing with it is pulling a boat. If you don't want to go the body lift route, a few companys sell a 2.5 to 3 inch kit that has rear add a leaf or blocks and a leveling kit for the front. It'll give you a stiffer ride though. Hope that helps and good luck with it!




*Charlie*
1990 K5- Tons and some more crap
2004 K1500- CC, cold air, custom tune, Flowmaster 40, 6" lift, 315's on H2's
1987 Samurai - Trail beater, a few mods, custom rust
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08-05-2006, 06:28 AM
Post: #5
 
As far as things that are prone to "go" or "brake" on these.... am I just looking at the same old stuff? CV's, u-joints, etc?




96 Ram 1500,360 auto,3\" Skyjacker System,3\" PA Body,General Grabber MT\'s(summer),BF AT\'s(winter),4:56, Trac Lok front and back,RT heads ported/polished,cleaned up keg,Cam,gen II, ... and a whole lot of other stuff
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08-05-2006, 06:39 AM
Post: #6
 
When I had 35's on my 90 Z71, the torsion bars were on their softest setting and were almost running level and never had any problems with them. (I had a 6" suspension and 3" BL) When I cranked my bars up and put more angle on them to run 38's, that's when they started to let go (the cv axles). That's another pro for a BL on these trucks. The idler arm was fixed in 97 I believe so you wouldn't have a problem with that just running 33's (I went through 6 of them). U-joints should be fine. Just make sure everything stays greased real good. I always use marine grease in everything I own. It's waterproof and lasts longer than regular grease IMO. If you do decide to go with a suspension lift, keep an eye on your upper ball joints also. They are a [censored] to change the first time but are a snap after that. If you do have to start changing parts, spend a couple extra bucks and get lifetime warranty stuff like I did. It's well worth it down the road.




*Charlie*
1990 K5- Tons and some more crap
2004 K1500- CC, cold air, custom tune, Flowmaster 40, 6" lift, 315's on H2's
1987 Samurai - Trail beater, a few mods, custom rust
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08-05-2006, 06:47 AM
Post: #7
 
stock it will clear 33" bfg at's in the 10.5 variety on a stock 80's rally wheel, and since the backspacing is different it puts the tire out further and gives it a meaner stance

12.5's and the 10" wide rims will make it rub, but like was said a bl will take care of it

since 32's were a stock size (265-75-16 goodyear td was stock and measured 32") there really isnt much of an issue with parts wearing faster with 33's




~ken~
aka. out
get your bouncing truck here, http://www.bouncingtrucks.com
my 88 sas "mudwasp" here http://www.pavementsucks.com/board/threa...otor-build
88 chevy k2500, started as reg cab lb, now reg cab shortbox, sas 17'' of lift, 52'' front springs large bbc , 79 dana hp 60 chevy outers, 14bolt ff spooled 5:13 gear ,divorced 205 and 44" tsl front 21.5x16.1 ag tires rear
1998 k3500 gmc crew cab dually L65 6.5TD 4l80e with a couple of mods
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08-05-2006, 05:28 PM
Post: #8
 
Like with the Ram, there are always weak points. My Ram eats track bars, the Trannys are prone to failure, the plenum gasket ALWAYS blows at some point ... etc. there are always a ton of stuff that are just prone to be problems on anything just from the factory. Seeing as I'm "NEW" to the Bow-Tie world, (and hardly know jack about ANYTHING) I'm asking more about what are the "Down falls" of either rig.( Tahoe or Yukon)Really the only reason I want to go GM is I like the look and everyone knows about the 350 and the matching tranny. If I ever go the route of rebuilding the Rig, I should not have trouble finding "LOCAL" help. (Not like the Ram... seems like there are alot of MOPAR haters than likers around me) Not that I'm knocking the Ram... I love it. Just looking for something a tad more for the family AND maybe FUN Naughty




96 Ram 1500,360 auto,3\" Skyjacker System,3\" PA Body,General Grabber MT\'s(summer),BF AT\'s(winter),4:56, Trac Lok front and back,RT heads ported/polished,cleaned up keg,Cam,gen II, ... and a whole lot of other stuff
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08-06-2006, 12:03 AM
Post: #9
 
Get a 4inch rancho lift, cost about 1100 dollars best lift out there for this body style. I wheeled it hard and have not broken any CV's or anything. It even rides better then stock. And allows to fit a 315-75-16 tire or approx 35 inch. You can run a 285-75-16 or 33inch without any lift at all. Thumbs Up! They are tough trucks except for the front suspension When not lifted properly they really eat up CV's and ball joints. If you keep the Cv's in stock specs and the arms too you be fine Thumbs Up!

Which is why i recomend the 4inch rancho as it is a true 4inchs of lift, Most IFS lifts give a true 4inch of lift then 2inchs of trosion cranking for the 6inchs. I think Dick cepek is the next best as it is a true 5.5 inch lift and only 1 inch of crank




93 4x4 K1500 Blazer, 350tbi, rancho 4inch lift, TJM t15 bumper, Hella 550 driving lights, Warn 9000lb winch, 315 DC Fun COUNTRY II!!!<BR><BR>proud to be in the top 1% of buff Pavementsuckers!!
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08-07-2006, 06:58 AM
Post: #10
 
I looked a tad at lifts that are out there and it seems that a BL is most cost effective, but a real lift might be in order as far as springs and such. I'll see once I get the truck. The rig may end up needing new parts after I get it so I'll keep my options open. I'm really suprised at how reasonably priced these rigs are used. Now all I have to do is find one that I'll be comfortable buying. I'll keep my eyes open... not really in any big rush.




96 Ram 1500,360 auto,3\" Skyjacker System,3\" PA Body,General Grabber MT\'s(summer),BF AT\'s(winter),4:56, Trac Lok front and back,RT heads ported/polished,cleaned up keg,Cam,gen II, ... and a whole lot of other stuff
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