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Putting lockout Hubs on a Dodge Dana44 ?'s
12-14-2005, 08:41 PM
Post: #1
 
I want to put Lockout Hubs in my Dodge, but i was told that the conversion kit is $1,300.00. Is there a way that I can put lock out hubs on my axels with out spending all that money. AND also, would a chevy Dana 44 bolt right in to my dodge. I Know that pumpkin is on the same side but I do not know if the width is the same. Buying a chevy dana 44 and putting lockout hubs on it would be cheaper on my behalf. Let me know what you think I can do.

Thanks, Very Happy
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12-14-2005, 08:50 PM
Post: #2
 
What year is your dodge? You may want to do a little more reading about this, it has been talked about alot. You will not find a chevy axle that will bolt into a dodge, wont even find a drivers side drop.




Matt<BR><BR>http://www.cardomain.com/id/pinkston<BR><BR>2001 Dodge Ram 3500 5 spd, 4:10, 4X4, HTT 62/12, Con OFE, TST PM3,Jammer 4s.<BR><BR>91 Isuzu Trooper, V8, SM420, Twinstick Dana 300, Cut up and wrapped in tube, 1 tons, 39.5 Iroks
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12-14-2005, 08:55 PM
Post: #3
 
you would be better off with a posi-lock connector and get rid of your cad
i dont knkow why you would want manual hubs personally
that means you have to get out and lock them suckers in everytime you want to go play in the dirt and you have a ton more moving parts up front rather than just a single sealed bearing and some axle shafts
JMHO
-Josh




putting a new meaning to cummins 600
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12-14-2005, 09:14 PM
Post: #4
 
My dodge is a 1989 Dodge Ramcharger. Why won't the chevy axel work? I thaught that since the pumpkin is on the same side that it would bolt in only if the width of the axel is the same as my dodge's dana 44.
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12-15-2005, 06:05 AM
Post: #5
 
I don't think he understood that you had an earlier dodge since you didn't specify year in your original post. Yes you can use a chevy axle since they are both passenger side drop. There is a 2" width difference between them though...the dodge being 2"s narrower (67.5" vs 69.5" I believe). If you're going through the trouble of a swap I would go with a D60. There is also a 1/2" difference in width between the spring pads, but you'd need to swap the pads out anyway because the dodge uses narrower springs (2.5" vs the chevy's 3"). You'd need to swap yokes as well for a 60.


edit: I noticed you said you were on a budget. If a 60 is out of the question and unnecessary, a 44 will be fine and can be had for hundreds less than a 60. You can always get wheel spacers for the rear if the width issue bothers you. Aside from the obvious, like matching f/r gear ratios, you'll need to weld new spring pads on the chevy axle. So technically, it wouldn't be a "direct bolt in", but no biggie.




'96 Cummins - 9"s, 37" Toyos on 18" bling
'78 Chief - onetons, 4.56 and detroits, 38.5" Boggers on H1 bling
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12-15-2005, 09:34 AM
Post: #6
 
Get an early 80's Dodge D44 front a Ram Charger or Ram. That will be a bolt in, and will have manul hubs. Also it will have the right bolt pattern, Chevy is a 6 lug pattern.




'90 Dakota truggy,built 360, TF727, Klune-V, NP208, locked D60s F/R , 39.5 Irok's, Allied beadlocks, 4 linked rear w/2.0 Sway-A-Way air shocks, PSC full hydro steering, caged, etc

2004.5 2500 QC/SB Cummins, Thuren Stage 4/KING/Carli suspension, 35" Dynapro M/T's

'97 XJ 4.0
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12-15-2005, 11:19 AM
Post: #7
 
Quote:On 2005-12-15 08:34, wickedakota wrote:
Get an early 80's Dodge D44 front a Ram Charger or Ram. That will be a bolt in, and will have manul hubs. Also it will have the right bolt pattern, Chevy is a 6 lug pattern.


Duh, good call...forgot about bolt pattern. For some reason I figured he had found an axle for cheap and so chevy stuck in my head. I guess that's what happens when you post at 7 am after staying up all night studying for finals...




'96 Cummins - 9"s, 37" Toyos on 18" bling
'78 Chief - onetons, 4.56 and detroits, 38.5" Boggers on H1 bling
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12-15-2005, 11:30 AM
Post: #8
 
Quote:On 2005-12-14 20:14, FrdsRmistakes wrote:
My dodge is a 1989 Dodge Ramcharger. Why won't the chevy axel work? I thaught that since the pumpkin is on the same side that it would bolt in only if the width of the axel is the same as my dodge's dana 44.
Just take the auto hubs off and put manuals in, it is that easy. The only cost you have is maybe a few bucks for somewheel bearing grease and whatever you want to spend on the hubs themselves.




85 Dodge Ramcharger 367/727/208 4.10\'s Modified 4 inch RCC lift 3 inch body lift 35x12.50R15 M/T Baja Claw Radials on 15x10 Black Rockcrawlers.
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12-15-2005, 11:43 AM
Post: #9
 
Quote:On 2005-12-15 10:30, Dodge 85 rc wrote:

Just take the auto hubs off and put manuals in, it is that easy. The only cost you have is maybe a few bucks for somewheel bearing grease and whatever you want to spend on the hubs themselves.

You can do that also. You will still have a 2 piece driverside axle shaft and CAD though. Unless you get a longside shaft from an older Dodge that fits. I do have a spare D44 longside shaft for an '82 D44 from when I ran halftons.




'90 Dakota truggy,built 360, TF727, Klune-V, NP208, locked D60s F/R , 39.5 Irok's, Allied beadlocks, 4 linked rear w/2.0 Sway-A-Way air shocks, PSC full hydro steering, caged, etc

2004.5 2500 QC/SB Cummins, Thuren Stage 4/KING/Carli suspension, 35" Dynapro M/T's

'97 XJ 4.0
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12-17-2005, 12:18 AM
Post: #10
 
If I do go with a longer axle shaft then can i eliminate the cad unit alltogather, and then run my manual hubs or do i still have to run the cad.
That axle shaft that you have, does it matter what gear ratio i am running or not? How much are you asking for it?
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