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Plenum Gasket Repair Cost ???
03-23-2008, 11:04 PM
Post: #1
 
Ok , so like pretty much everyone with a Ram it's time to do the gasket job . I've did the search and have been reading up on it for a while now . I'm going to order the Hughes kit but what I'd like to ask is if I should attempt this myself or take it to a shop ? I can tackle some 'moderate' stuff myself but I've never attempted this before and can admit that I'd be a little nervous doing this for the 1st time for fear of screwing something up . What would a shop charge , labour only , to do this ? How many hours could I expect them to charge me ? Any special tools needed that your average Joe's toolbox might not have ? Should I just go for it myself and not worry about it ? Thanks for your input !




2000 Ram 2500 QuadCab 4X4 Fabtech Lift + 3" Body Dual Bilstein Shocks & Stabilizers DSS Steering Brace Edelbrock Shorty Headers Flowmaster Super40 385/70/16 Toyo MT's on ProComp 16x10 Dana 60's Front & Rear , 4.56 Gears
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03-24-2008, 05:48 AM
Post: #2
 
I paid $660 in labor from one of the best mechanics if not the best around here. He seems to usually have fair prices to me although he might be a little higher than a few others shops. I'd rather pay extra and have it done right. I had a few of the bolts snapped off he had to get out too.

I then paid I think it was $158 for the full APS pleneum kit. It also included the lower intake gaskets which I've heard you have to buy seperately with the Hughes kit.




2001 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Laramie Off Road Package with 360
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03-24-2008, 06:08 AM
Post: #3
 
that plenum kit fix is pretty easy. just take your time and make sure you take everything apart without breaking it. its basically the throttle body, the linkage for that and then the bolts that hold on the intake. You will also have to disconnect the fuel rail from the injectors, and the toughest part about that is making sure you get them seated correctly when you put it back on.

If you consider yourself to be good with "moderate" tasks, i think this is less than moderate. but maybe thats just me. anyone else have an opinion?




Founder of the Anti Truck-Nutz Club. <BR>(i hate those things)<BR><BR>“Oh, you hate your job? Why didn\'t you say so? There\'s a support group for that. It\'s called EVERYBODY, and they meet at the bar.”<BR>- Drew Carrey<BR><BR>2001 Ram QC Sport 5.9L 4x4<BR>4.56\'s, E-locked front, Detroit locked rear<BR>new leaf packs w/ ORD Zero Rate
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03-24-2008, 09:26 AM
Post: #4
 
It is moderate in my opinion. Not too tough, but there is some tricky areas to be careful with. It is mostly just time consuming due to the amount of stuff you have to remove to get access. It is an excellent chance to do some preventative maintenance too. If you have a lifted truck, it might be worth the back ache to remove the fan and shroud so you can stand inside the engine compartment. Wich I had done it that way.




1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 5.2, Auto, Mopar Performance air cleaner assembly, Fastman 50mm TB, modded kegger intake, Edelbrock ceramic headers, Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster Super 40, Split Second ARC1, B&G performance flashed PCM, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 rockers, Yukon 4.56' s, Auburn LSD, 3" Skyjacker, 3" PA Body lift, Rancho RS9000XL's, 35" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, more.
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03-24-2008, 09:42 AM
Post: #5
 
its pretty easy i would say less than moderate, with some basic tools, a 3/8 torque wrench, and a few hours of your time it isnt hard. just make sure to label everything (makes install much faster) and if you wheel your truck make sure to wash the piss out of the top of your engine before you start tearing it apart.




1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Extended Cab 318 4X4 Auto<BR>4\" Lift, 33\" pro comp mud terrian, HD Steering, K&N FIPK, Fastman TB, March Underdrive Pulleys, H.O. Alternator, Gibson Headers, Hypertech Programmer III, MSD Wires, True Dual Exhaust With Flomaster 40s and Cutouts, Alpine Deck,Cobra 29 NW, 3\' Firestiks<BR><BR>1999 Dodge Ram 3500 RegCab Cummins 4X4 5-speed Manual-Just Straight piped For Now-Lots Of [censored] To Come
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03-24-2008, 09:47 AM
Post: #6
 
It was pretty easy...you just have to keep things organized. I suggest that you replace the bypass hose and thermostat when you do this job since you have to remove them anyway.

Here are the instructions I used: http://www.madrt.com/m1install.html

These instructions assume that you're replacing the manifold, but the rest of the steps are the same.

Good Luck!




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03-24-2008, 11:36 AM
Post: #7
 
good call on that thermostat, Joe. its been two years since i did mine and i cant remember what all i replaced. i did the plenum at the same time i was puting in the new roller rockers and i upgraded to a 180 t-stat. i also went to a larger ported and pollished TB too.

i forgot all that stuff was done at the same time. thanks for bringing back those old memories!
** unrelated note: beer kills brain cells.** ROTFL




Founder of the Anti Truck-Nutz Club. <BR>(i hate those things)<BR><BR>“Oh, you hate your job? Why didn\'t you say so? There\'s a support group for that. It\'s called EVERYBODY, and they meet at the bar.”<BR>- Drew Carrey<BR><BR>2001 Ram QC Sport 5.9L 4x4<BR>4.56\'s, E-locked front, Detroit locked rear<BR>new leaf packs w/ ORD Zero Rate
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03-24-2008, 05:42 PM
Post: #8
 
make sure the o-rings on the injectors are good. and put some type of lubricant (wd-40, light grease, etc.) on the o-ring before you slip it into the fuel rail.




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03-24-2008, 10:57 PM
Post: #9
 
Great info , everyone - Thanks ! I think this is do-able , but I believe this would be a project where the beer stays in the fridge until the truck is running again ! Regarding the thermostat , since I'm in there already , I've heard pros and cons as to changing to a 180 or staying with the stock range - any downsides to changing to the 180* ? Any real benefit ? Also probably a great time to do the cap and rotor since I would actually be able to see it ! or do I have to pull that anyway to remove the intake ?




2000 Ram 2500 QuadCab 4X4 Fabtech Lift + 3" Body Dual Bilstein Shocks & Stabilizers DSS Steering Brace Edelbrock Shorty Headers Flowmaster Super40 385/70/16 Toyo MT's on ProComp 16x10 Dana 60's Front & Rear , 4.56 Gears
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03-25-2008, 06:25 AM
Post: #10
 
No, you don't need to remove the cap/rotor to do the intake, but yes, it is a great time to service it. Definetly do the waterpump bypass hose, and I recommend not resuing the o-rings. When you buy new ones, don't skimp. Get the good ones. The ones I used were viton. I also did some other preventative maintenance at that time, including replacing the top and bottom radiator hose, serpentine belt, new plugs, wires, cap/rotor, tb gasket, and air filter. It is also a good time to mod your intake while you have it off. It is pretty easy to do, but will add several hours to your repair time. However, I felt it was well worth it. Noticable gains in the mid rpm range. There are several good write-ups on various forums for how to both repair your plenum and how to mod your intake. Lastly, do you have an in/lb torque wrench?




1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4, 5.2, Auto, Mopar Performance air cleaner assembly, Fastman 50mm TB, modded kegger intake, Edelbrock ceramic headers, Magnaflow cat, Flowmaster Super 40, Split Second ARC1, B&G performance flashed PCM, Harland Sharp 1.7:1 rockers, Yukon 4.56' s, Auburn LSD, 3" Skyjacker, 3" PA Body lift, Rancho RS9000XL's, 35" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs, more.
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