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Best way to de-sludge your motor???
11-04-2006, 07:16 PM
Post: #1
 
I've heard of guys using tranny fluid, Sea Foam, clean oil, etc, but I was wondering what you guys thought about this.

I'm trying to get my truck in shape for winter, and I'd like to de-sludge the motor. I just changed the oil last Sunday, and have been getting blue smoke at start up since the oil change. Didn't do it before I changed the oil, so today I checked the oil level again and noticed it was overfilled by about 1/2-1qt. Apparently I bought a 5qt jug (thought it was a gallon), poured all that in there along with another 1.5 qts. Basically I thought I put in 5.5qts, but really it was 6.5qts. Idiot Didn't know it until I looked at the jugs at the parts store today, and saw they were 5qts instead of the normal 1gal size.

So, I promptly drained out some oil until it was at the proper level. Then I put in a new PCV valve, poured Sea Foam down the TB twice, replaced the air filter with a brand new K&N style filter, and I'm going to get a new crankcase breather tomorrow. Everything was kinda sludged with old oil, so that's why I'm wanting to flush the motor out.

I'm thinking tomorrow or Monday I'll flush the motor, change the oil again, put in new spark plugs and maybe wires and a cap and rotor too. Pretty much do a full tune up before the winter hits. I've got another bottle of Sea Foam that I could use to flush the motor, or I could get some tranny fluid or something else. What do you guys think???




-Chuck
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11-04-2006, 09:00 PM
Post: #2
 
If I suspect a lot of sludge in the engine, I'll change the oil and filter a few times over a 5-600 mile period. The danger in using ATF, Seafoam or motor flush in an engine with excessive sludge is The chemical can break it up too fast. This can cause blockages in vital oil ports. I prefer to do it slowly over time. Often I've pulled the pan and valve covers to clean and inspect for excessive sludge and wear in engines that are new to me...recent purchases.

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11-04-2006, 09:51 PM
Post: #3
 
Diesel fuel works great Very Happy




Chris

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11-04-2006, 10:10 PM
Post: #4
 
go to your locla parts store they seell a product specifically designed for this i think the one i picked up when i did my truck was just called "motor flush" obviously used it and i was impressed with the crap that cam eout of the oilk pan

i added the tsuff to my truck drove it about 2 miles (aorund my block 2 times )

drained it changed filter with cheapos ran for 5 miles changed it again and then did a good oil change in it
runs clean oil most of the time now and i keep my oil changes down to about 1K on each one keep it fresh

(sorry for the long write up ) Sorry




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11-04-2006, 10:17 PM
Post: #5
 
Quote:On 2006-11-04 21:10, 98redram wrote:


(sorry for the long write up ) Sorry

i just wish you could spell ROTFL




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11-05-2006, 03:07 AM
Post: #6
 
Quote:On 2006-11-04 21:10, 98redram wrote:
go to your local parts store they sell a product specifically designed for this i think the one i picked up when i did my truck was just called "motor flush" obviously used it and i was impressed with the crap that came out of the oil pan
I am With Stupid that is what i have used before, has worked good on some cars i've had, but bad on others. it worked really good on a 79 bronco and an 83 trans am that i had, but the 305 in an 86 trans am didn't do as well. my 86 t/a had an immediate drop in oil pressure(would only get to 15psi when warm, no matter what rpm), loss of power, and the engine failed about 4000 miles later of easy i'm-worried-i-won't-have-a-car-much-longer driving. so if you flush the engine, do at your own risk because it might help, or it might make things worse.
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11-05-2006, 07:44 AM
Post: #7
 
Mr. Joe, I kinda thought about that too with freeing up excess sludge and blocking something up, so I'm a little leary as you said. Do you think it would be a better idea to just add a little or a de-sludger to the crankcase right before the next few oil changes???

CJ, diesel fuel was another I've heard that works good, but I'm not sure how much to add or how to go about doing this. Would I just add some to my regular oil and let it idle, or what??? Same with tranny fluid... not sure what concentration or engine speed and time length is okay. Dunno:

Any ideas on that???




-Chuck
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11-05-2006, 08:02 AM
Post: #8
 
Changing oil every 1k?!?!? Wow!

Mr. Joe makes a very scary point there. I'd have to think any method that doesn't completely break up the deposits could leave you with chunks floating around your oiling system. It's a slim chance, but what if one gets in the passage for a main or rod bearing.




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11-05-2006, 09:18 AM
Post: #9
 
Chuck drain 1 quart of oil out, add a quart of diesel fuel in let it run for 20 min or so then drain it out. We had to do this to a new Ford Windstar that went almost 30,000 miles on the factory oil it was so plugged up the oil wouldnt even drain through the oil returns in the heads back into the oil pan...was a customer of ours that had it through a lease ROTFL




Chris

1999 F250 7.3, 6 spd, Southbend OFE, 3.73 Detroit, 2" Daystars, 33" MTZ's, 17x9 DC 1 wheels, 6 position flip chip tuned by Tony Wildman, AFE Stage II, MBRP 4", Autometer Sport Comp gauges

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11-05-2006, 03:06 PM
Post: #10
 
Quote:On 2006-11-05 08:18, cj ford wrote:
Chuck drain 1 quart of oil out, add a quart of diesel fuel in let it run for 20 min or so then drain it out. We had to do this to a new Ford Windstar that went almost 30,000 miles on the factory oil it was so plugged up the oil wouldnt even drain through the oil returns in the heads back into the oil pan...was a customer of ours that had it through a lease ROTFL
Shocked Shocked Shocked Note to self... avoid all lease return vehicles when looking for a new car. Bad Idea

Thanks for the guidance... I'll probably do that when I change the oil again. I want to get about 500-1,000mi on this oil change so it isn't a complete waste of money.




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